Weavers in the northwest have called for special protected EU status for Donegal Tweed to combat cheaper imitations from across the globe.
They hope to avail of a change in EU policy which will allow them to seek the same protection for Donegal Tweed that is afforded to Champagne, Parma Ham and the Waterford Blaa.
Chairperson of Donegal Tweed Association and CEO of Magee Weaving Patrick Temple said Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, a form of EU market certification, will help protect and develop the textile industry in the northwest.
Magee Weaving was founded in 1866 in Donegal town and currently employs about 100 people. It is the largest producer of Donegal Tweed in the northwest.
Mr Temple said Donegal Tweed is in fashion once every five years on average across the board with the big fashion brands, and during these fashion cycles similar products are produced globally.
Actors such as Sarah Jessica Parker, Pierce Brosnan, Liam Neeson and Mel Gibson have worn Donegal Tweed apparel in recent years.
Mr Temple believes PGI will offer great consumer clarity so "when people see Donegal Tweed, they will realise its woven in Co Donegal".
"The best example is Champagne - you can have Champagne from the Champagne region, or you can have sparkling wine from outside the Champagne region," he explained.
"The legislation is now in place at EU level and now it is working through the Irish system. It's about getting it [PGI protection] over the line."
Donegal Tweed is defined as a fabric woven in Co Donegal that has a colourful fleck spun into the yarn and woven in a 100% natural fibre in a plain weave or a twill.
Kieran Molloy, co-owner of Molloy and Sons in Ardara and Secretary of the Donegal Tweed Association, said many imitation fabrics are being produced in the UK, Italy and China and are sold under the Donegal name.
"This is quite a big problem for us across the fashion industry internationally," he said.
"We want to get the protected PGI status so something can only be called Donegal Tweed if it has been designed, warped, woven, inspected and dispatched in Co Donegal."
Mr Molloy is the sixth generation of his family weaving in Ardara. His great-granduncle and great-grandfather began exporting Donegal Tweed to the USA after Ireland became a free state in 1922.
"They opened a showroom on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 40th in New York, opposite the public library," he said.
"They had a warehouse in the meat packing district. They travelled over and back several times a year selling Donegal Tweed fabric to tailors around the USA.
"We're in Ardara, a small village on the coast in southwest Donegal, but in reality it's been the centre of Donegal Tweed for generations.
"We're selling Donegal Tweed to fashion brands, fashion designers, tailors in Europe, Asia and the USA."
Five of the Molloy family are involved in the six-person day-to-day staff.
Mr Molloy's father carries out the warping while his uncle looks after weaving. His aunt carries out inspections and mending, his mother looks after the accounts and cutting of the blankets, and Mr Molloy takes care of the sales and marketing. The roles often overlap.
"We have to work together harmoniously. We're trying to keep the same business going 100 years after my great-grandfather and great-granduncle set up on Fifth Avenue," he said.
"We're essentially doing the same thing but selling to different markets and trying to keep the product relevant, updating designs and trying to find new customers."
The European Union has asked that member states put appropriate structures in place from 1 December to process PGI registrations and ensure enforcement for craft and industrial products.
Many companies in the textile industry in Co Donegal are client companies of Údarás na Gaeltachta.
Donnchadh Ó Baoill from Údarás na Gaeltachta believes PGI status will safeguard the industry into the future.
"I believe securing the protective status will ensure, safeguard and protect an industry that has been central to these communities for generations," he said.
"The skills have been handed down from generation to generation in Ard an Rátha, Cill Chartha and Gleann Cholm Cille.
"There are up to 250 people involved in the industry which continues to define southwest Donegal's unique contribution to the county's creative economy."
A spokesperson for the Department of Enterprise, Trade and Employment said work on the implementation of the EU Regulation on geographical indication protection for craft and industrial products (CIGIs) is ongoing.
It said department officials are actively engaging with craft producers and other interested stakeholders, including Donegal Tweed, in relation to the establishment of the legal framework for the new protection system in Ireland.
The spokesperson said Minister for Enterprise Peter Burke is very supportive of the new GIP right that will have many benefits for producers of craft and industrial products.
They said the minister also recognised the "positive role that GI protection plays in combating counterfeit products and boosting national and regional tourism".
Producers of craft and industrial products will be able to apply for the GI protection for the names of their products from 1 December.
The application process for the protection involves two phases. The first phase will be carried out by the Intellectual Property Office of Ireland, and a second phase will be carried out by the European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO).
The two-phase registration process involves a number of procedures, including an opposition period at both national and EU level. The Department said the EUIPO will make the final decision on whether to grant or refuse the registration.
Kieran Molloy believes a fast-track option may be available to protect Donegal Tweed and other craft products. He has asked for a meeting with the minister to discuss the fast-track process.
Mr Temple said the campaign has been "gently building" over the years with support from the Local Enterprise Office, Enterprise Ireland, the Design Council, the Department of Trade, Enterprise and Employment, and the IPO office.
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The EU Commission announced a framework three years ago to protect the intellectual property for craft and industrial products that rely on the originality and authenticity of traditional practices from their regions.
Members of the Donegal Tweed Association have made several presentations to the EU Commission about the call for PGI status. The association is made up of weaving mills and weavers, including Magee Weaving, Molloy & Sons, McNutts of Donegal, Studio Donegal and Eddie Doherty's Handwoven Tweeds.
They hope their efforts will result in a competitive advantage for the weaving industry in Donegal and provide a regulatory framework to preserve the sector's heritage and reputation.
"There's a huge amount of skill tied up within the county unique to Donegal Tweed. Sowing these seeds for the future is key," Mr Temple said.
