Do you find yourself overwhelmed by skincare options? Or simply wondering what’s simply a fad? Some of Ireland’s top skincare experts cut through the noise to reveal the options they stick to, and the ones they’d ban if they could. Kate Demolder writes.
Once, it all seemed so simple: Cleanse, tone, moisturise. However, much has changed in the skincare world, with what seems like thousands of new products launching every week. With that comes conflicting advice: what goes first? Is it better to cleanse once or twice? And is 'natural’ skincare at all better?
If you’ve found yourself wondering whether your skin would be better suited to beef tallow or retinoids, read on. We spoke to eight skin experts to find out their own skincare routines – and the mistakes they’d run a mile from. (Spoiler: none of them uses beef tallow.)
Agnes Gajewska, Advanced facialist and Face Yoga trainer
https://www.faceyogabyagnes.com/
With a waitlist several months long, Agnes Gajewska is the go-to woman for anyone looking for facial sculpting, and was even recently billed by the Sunday Times as the person to "make skin sing".
What do you use daily?
My daily rituals revolve around lymphatic work, warm water with lemon and ginger or celery juice and cleansing (Skingredients Prebiotic Cleanser), Vitamin C (C-Esta Serum from Jan Marini or Medik8), serum (my own Óige Peptide Elixir), eye patches (POCO Beauty or any Korean brands), moisturising (Avene) and SPF (SPF Trinny London or Heliocare), although I don’t always use moisturiser in the summer months.
I do a quick Face Yoga by Agnes ritual in the morning – or in the evening if I’m under pressure – and I love walking and listening to podcasts, so definitely lots of steps.
My evening rituals are dry brushing as part of my shower, usually three times a week, with evening skincare of double cleanser, an active toner (a sample of a product I’m working on), an LED mask or Lyma Laser, eye cream (Medik8 Eye Retinol), my peptide elixir and retinal, although I don't apply active toner under retinol.
What do you do in-clinic?
My salon addiction is Dermalux [non-invasive treatment that uses clinically proven blue, red, and near-infrared wavelengths to rejuvenate skin, reduce acne, and calm inflammation] and investments in my treatments/education.
I also try to do a course of IPL and microneedling every year. I had my semi-permanent brows done two years ago, best decision. I never had injectables, but I'm planning to have a blepharoplasty – I’m just not brave enough yet.
What do you base your skincare choices on?
Science, not trends. Ingredients that really make the difference. I will not spend big money on cleansers and moisturisers, but I do definitely invest in serums, and always apply SPF. I also don't feel pressure to look 20, and I believe in a 360° approach. (I would like to be better with weights; I'm 44 this year and definitely feeling the change.)
Dr Alex Quinn, aesthetics doctor and founder of the Dr Alex Clinic
https://thealexclinic.ie/
With advanced training across both medical dermatology and aesthetic practice, as well as postgraduate diplomas in Dermatology and Aesthetic Medicine, the Dr Alex Clinic is one of the buzziest new clinics in Ireland.
What do you use daily?
I almost exclusively use SkinCeuticals, which is the range I stock in the clinic. That decision was very deliberate. I’m not particularly interested in marketing trends; I’m interested in formulation science, peer-reviewed studies and reproducible results across different skin types.
My morning routine consists of a gel-based, lightly acidic cleanser, Phloretin CF Gel (antioxidant protection), P-TIOX, H.A. Intensifier serum, Triple Lipid Restore, A.G.E. Advanced Eye cream, Ultrasun SPF 50 and SPF, which is the single most important anti-ageing intervention — everything else is secondary to that.
My evening routine is the Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight Cream, which I use twice weekly (I also use this on the backs of my arms for keratosis pilaris), retinol two nights per week and a barrier-focused hydration on non-active evenings. I avoid over-exfoliation and frequent product changes; skin responds best to consistency and barrier integrity.
What do you splurge on?
Regarding in-clinic treatments, I believe in gradual, cumulative improvement rather than dramatic change. Over time, I’ve had: Anti-wrinkle injections (upper and lower face), Profhilo for skin quality, filler-wise I’ve had nose, lip and chin filler all done very subtly to balance my side profile, Polynucleotides in the periocular area, Sunekos [an injectable skin treatment made of hyaluronic acid and amino acids, designed to stimulate collagen and elastin production] for hydration support, Microneedling, BBL and MOXI, a course of chemical peels and fat dissolving under the chin in the past.
These treatments have been spaced and layered over time. The focus is always collagen stimulation, skin quality and subtle structural balance — not transformation.
Anything else?
Finally, I’m a strong believer in the gut–skin axis and take a daily probiotic. I also use sauna and cold plunging regularly, which I find beneficial for overall skin radiance. I don’t routinely have facials; while relaxing, I prioritise treatments with measurable biological impact. Similarly, I don’t personally use red light therapy - it can be effective, but only with strict consistency. Ultimately, my aim is to look like myself, simply well-maintained and healthy.
Dr Hanhushar Gunasagaran, aesthetic doctor at AnuMe Clinic, Cork
https://anumemedicalclinic.com/
Dr Gunasagaran is an experienced Aesthetic Physician specialising in Dermatology and Anti-Aging Regenerative Medicine, and a skincare line founder. As a key opinion leader for Dr Babor Pro Skincare in 2023, she has contributed to the advancement of aesthetic treatments and led a patient outcome study focused on at-home skincare combined with aesthetic procedures.
What do you use daily?
My daily routine, in the morning, is cleansing with Elementre (cleansing gel nettoyant) 3.5% Glycerin + Allantoin Water Lily, applying Definisse (KP1) Regenerating Serum, Relife Definisse (KP1) Revitalising Eye Contour and Celimax pore + dark spot cream: Niacinamide 5%, Tranexamic acid 5%, Melazero V2 1%, a ceramide, and finally, moisturising with Definisse (KP1) Redensifying Cream. I top that off with Purito SEOUL-Daily Soft Touch Sunscreen SPF50++++. I also reapply sunscreen with the Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick throughout the day.
My night routine is the same cleanser and eye serum, along with CELIMAX - The Vita-A Retinal Shot Tightening Serum and Skinceuticals Advanced RGN-6.
What do you splurge on?
Once a month, I splurge on a medical grade facial, like a Hydrafacial or chemical peel, and my favourite treatment at the moment is SKINVIVE [an FDA-approved hyaluronic acid (HA) microdroplet injectable designed to boost skin hydration, smoothness, and radiance in the cheeks]; results last me a good 6-9 months and it’s an easy one session treatment, and great value for money.
What do you base your skincare choices on?
My honest opinion with skincare is that a simple regime goes a long way, and it requires consistency more than a hefty price tag. I suggest spending on potent serums and actives, clinically proven treatments, broad-spectrum daily SPF and targeted therapies for pigmentation, ageing, or texture.
Best advice I can give? Pick up sunscreen, lift weights, eat well and start now.
Dawn Hill, facialist and owner of Floraison
https://floraison.ie/
Dawn is the founder of Floraison, a skincare clinic far more than the sum of its parts. Her waiting list is years-long, and she is credited with being one of the foremost minds of niche skincare brands in Dublin.
What do you use daily?
Cleansing is the foundation of good skin, and it’s genuinely my favourite part of my routine. I double cleanse every evening, usually either with the Deviant Blue Tansy Balm, Mansard Baume Initial or the LAST Cleansing Gel.
Serums are the Trojan workers in my routine, my main serum is the Poets Atelier Bio Recovery Serum, and for night-time it’s the LAST Skin Repair Serum, an absolute powerhouse. I use it about three nights a week.
As a complete reset for the skin, I use the Ayuna Longeva Epidermal Fasting Ampoules. I use one ampoule a night when my skin is in need of serious nourishment; after procedures, travelling, after illness or just a stressful period.
Masking is a big part of my routine –– it’s hard to beat the masks from Ayuna, they’re speedy, but wow, results are guaranteed – and a seaweed or salt bath is a must once a week. It’s a ritual now and one I never miss.
Anything else?
Whilst products are important, they will only ever get so deep. I drink a green smoothie daily with chia seeds, spinach, cucumber - anything green! I take Omega 7s daily from Pharmanord. I take Moss Boss daily for a healthy gut. I brew a lot of nettle tea and also drink my own tea that I formulated with Oir Tonics, Rest & Bloom. I drink it about an hour before bed to rest the mind and work on the skin while I sleep.
What are your favourite tweakments?
Aesthetics-wise, I get Botox done twice a year. I believe it can be a lovely addition to a routine, but it shouldn’t be relied on, in my opinion. I get it done with Dr Sarah Kate in D6 Skin in Ranelagh; I send all my clients to her and trust her implicitly.
I’ve gone to Le Formulaire for Sunekos under my eyes, which I will absolutely keep doing. A big part of my routine is micro-needling. I do this on myself, perhaps every three months. LEDs are a big part of my routine, too.
I use the Celluma device (in my opinion, absolutely nothing else comes close), pop on a podcast and let it do its magic for half an hour.
Professor Niki Ralph, Consultant Dermatologist, FRCPI and co-founder of the Institute of Dermatologists
https://instituteofdermatologists.ie/
Professor Niki needs no introduction – she is one of two co-founders of the Institute of Dermatologists, where every one of your favourites go for their skincare concerns. A Consultant Dermatologist on the Specialist Register for Dermatology in Ireland, she is an honours graduate of the Royal College of Surgeons and a Clinical Assistant Professor at University College Dublin.
What do you use daily?
In the morning, post-gym, I cleanse the face with creamy cleanser – Clinical+ skin or Probiotic Cleanser (Skingredients) – apply Vitamin C or an antioxidant serum, a multitasking eye cream, like Clinical+ Skin Rejuvenating Corrective Eye Balm, a hydrating moisturiser and finish with broad spectrum, physical only sunscreen: this is a non-negotiable step in my morning skincare routine. I use ELTA MD UV Elements (tinted SPF), which is ideal for patients with sensitive skin.
In the evening, I double cleanse with ELTA MD Oil in a gel cleanser, which is great for removing makeup and oils, and is also suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin. I use Simple Eyemakeup Remover or Optase Life because they’re the only two that don’t sting my eyes, then pat the skin dry and apply my other non-negotiable: a topical retinoid.
A pea-sized amount for the entire face, avoiding lips and eyes. My go-to is Alpharet Overnight Cream by Skinbetter Science, a patented formula, slow-release retinoid (equivalent to prescription strength retinoid), but with added ingredients to moisturise the skin. Then I apply the same eye cream and seal it all with polypeptide firming serum by Clinical+ Skin.
What treatments do you get?
When it comes to procedures, I get anti-wrinkle injections every 3-4 months in my forehead/around my eyes for crows' feet and occasionally in the masseter muscle as I clench a lot. I’ve also had Ultherapy [skin-tightening treatment], which is great for the lower face, neck and jawline, and Secret PRO, which is an amazing treatment for acne scars and skin rejuvenation that combines radiofrequency, microneedling and CO2 laser.
IPL (intense pulsed light), I usually do once per year for mild pigmentation, and if I am going to an event, I sometimes combine therapies such as a quick IPL/chemical peel and Skinpen microneedling, as there is such limited downtime, but the skin is radiant thereafter.
I’m a big fan of C02 laser for skin resurfacing, improved texture, reduced pore size and its ability to remove precancerous cells in the top layer of the skin.
Anything else?
I have to be honest and say the work is so busy, I am not the best at finishing courses of treatments, so, say, polynucleotides are usually a course of three, and I’ve only ever done two. I prefer this treatment over Profhilo, as it treats the entire face rather than just the cheeks downwards.
If I had time, I would do an Emfusion facial, especially before an event, but I have only ever had this treatment once – it is super relaxing, which is not something I can say about any other treatment!!
Dr Jane Mulrooney, Consultant Dermatologist and co-founder of the Dr Mulrooney Clinic
https://drmulrooney.com/
Dr Mulrooney (MB. BCh. B.A.O., BSc. Pharmacology, MSc. Clinical Dermatology) is another doctor at the forefront of all advances in the treatment of ageing skin and cosmetic dermatology. Specialising exclusively in cosmetic dermatology, her work is known for the less-is-more approach.
What do you use daily?
In the morning, I use Profhilo micellar water for eyes and skin refresh, complexion renewal pads from ZO by Dr Obagi, ZO by Dr Obagi Daily Power Defence, Seavite Eye Contour Gel, Seavite Serum, then P Tiox and CE Ferulic by Skinceuticals.
Then, I wait 10 minutes and apply an SPF 50; I like Vichy, or if I want a tinted SPF, I use Heliocare. I let this soak again for 10 min before applying makeup.
In the evening, I remove my makeup with Seavite Cleanser, followed by ZO’s Gentle Cleanser, the ZO complexion renewal pads that I used in the morning, Seavite Serum, Seavite Eye Contour Gel, and Tretinoin 0.05 % (prescription cream) mixed with Seavite Face cream.
What are your favourite skin treatments in-clinic?
1. Combined facial treatment (CFT) that we use in the Dr Mulrooney Clinic, which consists of a superficial glycolic and lactic peel followed by IPL laser. No downtime and leaves skin glowing, improving skin texture, tone and radiance. I do this monthly.
2. Ultherapy to my brow to lift, and also to lift the jawline and improve collagen in overlying skin. No downtime, and I do this yearly.
3. Fraxel laser to treat pigment and fine lines. Downtime is three days, and I do this three times a year.
4. Profhilo Scructura is injected in front of the ear to lift the jawline and hydrate the under-eye region. No bruising, no downtime and painless to inject.
Dr George Nema, internal medicine and cosmetic dermatology doctor, and owner of The Sculpture Clinic
https://www.sculptureclinic.ie/
Dr George is responsible for maintaining the faces of some of Ireland’s most photographed women, like Rosanna Davidson and Holly Carpenter. Uniquely dual-certified in internal medicine and cosmetic dermatology, his clinics are based in Nenagh and Donnybrook.
What do you use daily?
I do look after my skin. I do the things everybody does in the morning, like cleansing, but I’m passionate about vitamin C, because it works. I don’t touch retinol - it doesn’t agree with my skin, but I like Obagi’s Anti-Ageing Kit, which is basically all about cleansing, good serums and exfoliating when necessary. I love their exfoliating polish and their growth factor. I’m on the oilier side, and they work for me. But the main thing that’s most important to my routine is vitamin C, and also sunblock.
What do you splurge on?
I get Botox 2-3 times a year; everybody can see me on my Instagram doing that. I also like biostimulators, which I inject into myself two or three times a year, and my other big thing is C02 laser, which is a gentle resurfacing laser. I get that every 12-18 months, and that’s the only thing I really think works.
Is there anything you’re totally against?
I’m against microneedling at home because they’re not medical devices, there’s no quality control there, so they’re generally doing more harm than good. I’m also against exosomes – there’s no evidence right now to support their merit, and no backed-up research behind them – and I’m moving away from injecting thicker gels into my clients – I just don’t think it’s necessary.
I’m also obviously against tanning beds and baking in the sun, but I do think we need the sunshine, too. I’m from the Mediterranean, and we only sit in the sun for 30 minutes in the morning, then we wear big hats.
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ
