Opinion: The Burren needs a more sustainable form of tourism than is currently the case, but is hindered by infrastructural issues
I recently watched the first two seasons of Smother, the TV drama series that was filmed in Co Clare. The series tells the story of the dysfunctional Ahern family, held together by the matriarch, Val, played by Dervla Kirwan, as they undergo a series of emotional, financial and moral crises caused in the main by Denis, the biological father of two of Val's three daughters, a ruthless businessman operating in and around Lahinch.
While the storyline and acting are strong, the most striking aspect of this production for many views is the gorgeous scenery of the Burren and the coastal area of north Clare, which forms an impressive backdrop to the plot. The Aherns’ luxurious home offers spectacular views over the Atlantic and its inhabitants seem to have oodles of time to drink expensive wine and eat sumptuous meals there
When they are not travelling around in Land Rovers, Audis and other expensive cars, or visiting the coffee shops in Lahinch and Ennis, they are also seen regularly out swimming, surfing and jogging. While they appear to drink a lot, the characters generally look to be in rude good health. It’s as if the fresh sea air and the inspiring landscape are restorative in some way.
Trailer for Smother
Because Smother is available on the Alibi and Peacock platforms, the images of the Wild Atlantic Way are being beamed into homes all over the world, In addition, the two-part TV documentary, The Burren: Heart of Stone, narrated by actor Brendan Gleeson, provides stunning visuals and important historical background material on one of Ireland's national treasures. It too has elicited a very positive reaction from the public and it may well result in more people wanting to visit this beautiful part of Ireland.
However, it is one thing increasing public awareness of the natural beauty of north Clare, it is quite another getting people to spend time in the area. Over the summer, residents of North Clare complained about the huge number of coach tours doing flying visits to the Cliffs of Moher, before heading off to Connemara and then back to Dublin in the same day. As one person told RTÉ Radio 1's Today With Claire Byrne show, 'all they leave behind is their rubbish.’
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From RTÉ Radio 1's Today With Claire Byrne, Brian O'Connell reports on reaction to tourism in rural Ireland
That's a shame because this area is deserving of more time than the vast majority of tourists are currently spending in it. Some of this fast tourism can be attributed to the lack of appropriate affordable accommodation in the area because of hotels being used to house asylum seekers. While obviously a boost for the region, Donald Trump's five-star Doonbeg Hotel and golf resort caters in the main for a more well-heeled clientele.
Aside from the scarcity of hotel beds, another inadequacy is the extremely poor road network, which is not equipped to accommodate the cars, tour buses, combine harvesters, RVs and hikers, which proliferate during the summer months in particular. Local residents and business people not unreasonably argue that the influx of tourism needs to be managed in a way that ensures some advantages accrue to the local economy in terms of spend and that there be significant investment in roads and transport facilities.
From RTÉ Radio 1's Brendan O'Connor Show, is the Burren the best place to holiday in Ireland?
What's need is a more sustainable form of slow tourism than what characterises current practices in Clare. The forthcoming Burren Winterage Weekend (October 27th to 29th), a celebration of the Burren’s farming tradition of moving cattle to the limestone uplands during the winter, provides a good example of how slow green tourism might be enhanced in the area. It can work alongside such well-established events as the Ennis Book Club Festival, the Kilfenora Traditional Music Festival, the Tuamgraney Harp Festival and, of course, the infamous Willie Clancy Summer School in Miltown Malbay.
Work must be done to ensure these festivals and gatherings continue to grow and prosper. Politicians and local authority officials must meet with stakeholders to come up with a strategic plan to develop a form of green tourism in Clare that has the capacity to be an example of best practice for others to follow.
Tourism is a key element of Ireland’s economic prosperity and a TV series like Smother could serve as a conduit for bringing people to a part of Ireland which has obvious attractions. However, such tourism needs to be supported and nurtured in order to guarantee a sustainable future. Hopefully when tourists do arrive in greater numbers, they will experience a slightly less stressful time of it than members of the Ahern family and will be in a position to savour all that Clare has to offer.
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ
