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Postcard from Prague: Irish fans aspire among the spires

Durty Nellys Irish Pub in Prague on Tuesday night.
Durty Nelly's Irish Pub where 'Freed From Desire' could lure unsuspecting passersby

So here we are now. From a capital with one very obvious spire to the 'City of a Hundred Spires'.

Prague got that moniker from a Bohemian mathematician and philosopher called Bernard Bolzano all the way back in the 19th century.

Like a 180 on a dartboard, the name seems to have stuck in the two centuries since. Albeit, the number of spires on the skyline of the Czech capital apparently now number well over 500.

Not that anyone's counting anyway. Because it's not up towards the rooftops of Prague that's drawing the most attention.

Down at street level on Tuesday night it was relatively quiet on the stroll from Wenceslas Square in the New Town area as locals and tourists milled around.

An aerial view of Prague Old Town Square looking at Church of Our Lady before Tyn. Old Town Square, Prague, Czech Republic.
An aerial view of Prague Old Town Square looking at Church of Our Lady before Tyn which takes up a decent percentage of the spire count by itself

Quiet enough to very easily pick out the multitude of Irish accents drifting from corner to corner. The green helping too as an identifier.

But to find the Old Town, where the heart of this city still beats most vigorously, one could now take those blind alleys with the eyes firmly closed if one so wished. Just take your pick of which Irish voices to follow.

For thousands of Boys in Green supporters, the pointiest of compass needles had been thrust towards the Czech capital all the way back since 20 November when the World Cup play-off draw was made.

Upwards of 6,000 will be in the city by the time the Republic of Ireland kick off against Czechia at 8.45pm local time, with only about 1,000 of those being lucky enough to get tickets for the game.

Among the majority without a means to enter the Fortuna Arena but still compelled to visit this enticing corner of the world were the two green-clad best friends in seats 28D and E on the flight over from Dublin.

Their other-halves will join them later to make a proper week of it but before then, it's living and breathing the hope and trepidation that comes hand in hand with being a latter day Ireland supporter.

In the row behind, another duo recounted their many footballing adventures across the cityscapes of Europe.

They would undoubtedly all find their way to the Old Town tonight, which on Tuesday night itself was relatively sedate given that a large swathe of the 6K were still to descend on the city.

The view towards Durty Nellys Irish Pub in Prague.

Lest we forget, it was a work night for people who actually live in Prague, compared to the ones who are living it up in this temporary home from home.

But then you hear outside voices being used indoors and not much investigation is needed.

Peering through the window at Cafe Bar Flirt in the Old Town, people in Ireland jerseys with tricolours draped around their shoulders were bopping along.

Then you turn another corner and get hit with the unmistakeable sound of 'Freed From Desire'. It's no 'Put 'Em Under Pressure' or 'Niall Quinn's Disco Pants', but that song and sports-related shenanigans tend to end up joined at the hip.

The locale where, presumably, minds and senses were being purified to Gala's lofty tones turned out to be Durty Nelly's.

From outside, plenty of revellers in green were mouthing the words 'My love has got no money, he's got his strong beliefs' which perhaps doubles up as an exhultation of the dark old days in Irish football that Prague could help to alleviate.

And that is what this week is about for the Irish fans here. A long lost chance to aspire.


Watch Czechia v Republic of Ireland on Thursday from 7pm on RTÉ2 and RTÉ Player. Follow our live blog on RTÉ.ie/sport and RTÉ News app or listen to commentary on Inside Sport on RTÉ Radio 1

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