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Postcard from Utrecht: Giantkilling in the land of the giants

Republic of Ireland's Katie McCabe, left, and Aoife Mannion onboard their chartered flight to Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport as Republic of Ireland women travel to the Netherlands for their 2027 FIFA Women’s World Cup Qualifier against the Netherlands in Ut
Katie McCabe (L) and Aoife Mannion en route to Utrecht via Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport

Seven years ago, a crowd of 850 headed towards Stadion Galgenwaard in Utrecht to set a new world record for the largest ever gathering of tall people.

The men had to be at least 6'2", the women had to be at least 5'9", but many were well clear of that, striding around with limbs that started in the North Pole and ended somewhere south of the equator.

The event was organised by Klub Lange Mensen (the Long People Club), which was founded in 1958 by Albert Johan Kramer, one of the tallest Dutchmen who ever lived. Some reports measured him at well over 7'9" in his prime. If he fell over he'd be halfway home.

Klub Lange Mensen successfully campaigned for bigger doors and larger seats on trains to accommodate the long-legged community, of which there are many members in this part of the world. In a 160-year period between 1860 and 2020, the average height of Dutch men rose by 20cm. They shot up like sunflowers, a combination of natural selection, an excellent healthcare system and a hefty dairy intake.

This is the land of the giants, so if it’s a David v Goliath battle you’re after, Utrecht seems like a fitting place to stage it.

The Republic of Ireland are playing the role of David here, bruised (physically and psychologically) by Tuesday’s 2-1 loss against France. Carla Ward has spent the last few days trying to rally her troops for another big effort, but the loss of Denise O’Sullivan to a knee injury is like David having his slingshot confiscated.

The Girls in Green have a track record of flourishing when the chips are down. This, however, is an order taller than Albert Johan Kramer.

Around 200 Irish supporters will be in Stadion Galgenwaard, an old-school ground with four steep independent stands that glower down on the pitch. Most of the travelling fans will congregate at Mick O'Connell's Irish Pub where you can get yourself some bitterballen (a thick ragout coated in breadcrumbs), vlammetjes (mini spring rolls) or a spice bag (a spice bag).

Utrecht is an interesting spot with a nice vibe, its canals hugged by pretty bars and restaurants. Bicycles are the mode of transport; there are thousands of them coasting up and down the city's wide, flat streets.

A general view during a Republic of Ireland women's training session at Stadion Galgenwaard in Utrecht, Netherlands.
The Republic of Ireland go through their paces at Stadion Galgenwaard

Below the wheels of the bikes, and the feet of the locals, there's a whole other world. Take a walk up to Domplein, the cathedral square, to see St Martin's Cathedral and the imposing Dom Tower and you'll be gamboling above 2,000 years of history.

DOMunder is an underground network crammed with artefacts of historical interest. St Martin's was once the largest church in the country, but the nave collapsed in a brutal storm in 1674. It's a classic piece of gothic architecture, built for the Roman Catholic Diocese of Utrecht, then transitioning to Protestantism during the Reformation.

Same building, same name, different religion.

Prince is a man who knew all about reinvention. He played at Stadion Galgenwaard in the summer of 1987, opening with a furiously funky version of Sign O' The Times. His encore was It's Gonna Be A Beautiful Night, an earworm of a tune that keeps repeating the mantra, 'it's gonna be a beautiful, it's gonna be a beautiful night'.

It will be just that if the Girls in Green can shut out the Oranje Leeuwinnen, as they famously did back in 2017 when Colin Bell brought Ireland to Nijmegen for a World Cup qualifier against the freshly crowned European champions. Bell's team sat in a block so deep they were nearly below St Martin's Cathedral. It worked, much to the irritation of the natives.

There are four survivors from that game for tomorrow's Utrecht fixture: Katie McCabe, Leanne Kiernan, Amber Barrett and Tyler Toland.

And yes, there is cause for optimism, despite the odds being against the visitors.

The Netherlands are talented, but a little streaky with a propensity to leak a few goals. Their boss Arjan Veurink was Sarina Wiegman's assistant in 2017, and also alongside her in the dugout when England came to the Aviva in 2024. He'll tell his side to be patient, wear Ireland down, prepare to face a stubborn rearguard.

In the other dressing room, Ward might highlight the Dutch's discomfort with crosses into the box.

"I think it's really clear with the way they play," she said. "Certainly under Arjan, they have a very clear identity and they're very good at that by the way. We're coming up against the best in the world but we’ll embrace that because let’s be really honest – who gives us a chance outside of our own camp?"

Getting out of this World Cup qualifier window with anything on the board would give Ward and her players justification to walk through the Netherlands' massive doors with their heads held high.

A victory would represent a forward stride so significant, it would catch the attention of Klub Lange Mensen.


Watch Netherlands v Republic of Ireland in World Cup qualifying on Saturday from 7.15pm on RTÉ2 and RTÉ Player. Follow a live blog on the RTÉ News App and on rte.ie/sport. Listen to live commentary on RTÉ Radio 1.

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