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Postcard from Leuven: Irish priests and sacred moments

The Republic of Ireland left a cold, rainy Dublin on Sunday afternoon for Leuven, the picturesque university city 25 kilometres east of Brussels that hosts tomorrow night's Nations League play-off second leg.

It's cold and rainy here too, but this is one of the more attractive destinations the Girls in Green have graced on their travails across Europe over the last few years.

There's plenty going on.

If it's a glass of Stella Artois you're after, Leuven is the place for you. The famous beer was first brewed here in 1926, though the city's oldest breweries date all the way back to the 1300s.

Its clean, tree-lined streets are pockmarked by statues of various figures of historical significance, while bustling little bars are squeezed around the corners of imposing gothic buildings; the most impressive of which, the marvellous Stadhuis (town hall), took over 400 years to complete.

Leuven is also home to the Irish College of St Anthony, which has been a cultural stronghold since its foundation in the 17th century for the training of Irish Franciscan priests. These days it serves as the HQ for the European Federation of Associations and Centres of Irish Studies (EFACIS), while hosting performances, concerts and exhibitions that promote Irish culture.

Then there's the food. Chocolates, chunky waffles, golden chips (with mayo of course) – there's no shortage of waist-expanding options to sustain you.

There'll be none of that for the Girls in Green of course. They’re here on business: Nations League business to be precise. Carla Ward's team did a number on Belgium last Friday night at Aviva Stadium, prevailing 4-2 in the first leg of their promotions/relegation play-off.

Advantage Ireland in the Nations League; though victory goes to Belgium in the 'Major Cities Infrastructure League': the ease with which one can get through Brussels Airport and catch a train to Leuven, and other surrounding areas, won't go unappreciated by anyone still waiting on the Dublin MetroLink.

Ward's players looked sharp when they trained at the 10,000-capacity Den Dreef Stadium on Monday morning, popping the ball around with precision in a tight possession drill.

Incidentally, OH Leuven - the local club who play their home games at the ground - have the same owners as Leicester City, the Srivaddhanaprabha family, hence the official name of the stadium: King Power at Den Dreef.

It was a busy couple of hours there on Monday. Shortly after Ward and her captain Katie McCabe finished their pre-match press conference, Belgian top-flight outfit OH Leuven unveiled the new head coach of their men's team, Felice Mazzu.

"A new breeze takes charge," the club posted to on X to confirm his arrival. Eleven months ago, the winds of change took Chris Coleman to Leuven. It had been a strange period for Coleman. In February 2024, he was in the running to become the new Republic of Ireland men's manager after Stephen Kenny's departure.

Newly-named OH Leuven's Welsh Chris Coleman poses with a jersey during a press conference of Belgian soccer team Oud-Heverlee Leuven in Leuven on December 2, 2024. (Photo by Tom Goyvaerts / Belga / AFP) / Belgium OUT

That didn't happen, the Welshman later heading to Cypriot side AEL Limassol, and then OH Leuven, who sacked him back in June.

The man who did get the Ireland job is of course Heimir Hallgrimsson. In the early noughties, he was living in the Icelandic archipelago of Vestmannaeyjar, working as a dentist while managing the women's team at local club IBV. When Hallgrimsson was asked to become assistant coach of the men's side, a 25-year-old named Elisabet Gunnarsdottir replaced him in the women's setup.

It was the start of a journey into management for Gunnarsdottir. Now manager of Belgium, she'll be in the dugout tomorrow night attempting to mastermind a comeback that would break Irish hearts.

It's all coming full circle in the Flemish Region, not least for McCabe.

Ireland's brilliant skipper will win her 100th cap against the Belgians and, perhaps when the game is done and dusted, she'll fully reflect on her own journey from Kilnamanagh to international fame. She's been an outstanding servant to her country - and there's plenty more to come.

"First and foremost, when you are wearing that green jersey, there is a weight and a responsibility," she said.

"It's a very sacred thing and not everybody gets the opportunity to do that. So to say I'm about to do it for the 100th time tomorrow night is a massive honour and something I'm very, very grateful for."

A sacred thing indeed in a city shape by scholars, breweries and Irish Franciscan priests.

Maybe it would be fitting if McCabe and Co can finish off the job here.

We'd all drink to that.


Watch Belgium v Republic of Ireland in the UEFA Women's Nations League play-offs on Tuesday from 7pm on RTÉ2 and RTÉ Player. Follow a live blog on the RTÉ News App and on rte.ie/sport. Listen to live radio commentary on an extended Game On with 2fm

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