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Destination Madrid as day of reckoning finally arrives

For the second time this decade Madrid hosts the Champions League final
For the second time this decade Madrid hosts the Champions League final

The journey starts here. It’s a famous sporting saying that’s a bit worn by now. But where is here? 

Did Liverpool’s adventure start at home with a 3-2 win over Paris St Germain on that September night last year?

Or was it before then? Was it last year’s final against Real Madrid in Kiev when their goalkeeper decided to throw two into his own net? 

Or did it really start in the semi-final when Divock Origi, of all players, stabbed home the most unlikely winner of all time? The fourth against Barcelona on that famous night at  Anfield.

Tottenham’s journey has been even more preposterous. They stumbled and bumbled their way through the group stages, never looking like qualifying. But they did. 

There was the ludicrous late drama against Manchester City when the Video Assistant Referee intervened to save the day. And then there was Ajax. Three second-half goals away from home, from Lucas Moura of all players, the last in the 96th minute. 

They should never have won. But they did.  And now they’re off to Madrid to meet Liverpool in the Champions League final.

For one set of fans the journey to Madrid starts here. In Dublin Airport, at the eye-watering time of 5am, at a snaking security queue ahead of a flight to Malaga.

Onboard, the football fans are quiet but obvious. A Liverbird here, a Spurs crest there. After landing on time into the scorching Spanish sun, it’s time for a taxi transfer across town and a train to Madrid.

Steve Daly is among the smart Liverpool fans who booked early, before the semi-final. 

The voice behind the popular LFC Daytrippers Podcast is relieved his route is relatively straightforward.  "I’ve heard some people doing two or three flights. Some are flying to France and driving down. I think Liverpool fans who want to be there will be there." 

He was checking flights and hotels as that famous semi-final unfolded and as Liverpool fought their way back, the costs just kept increasing.

"The prices were insane once that second leg happened. Even midway through the prices were going up and up just for Saturday night alone, three star places were looking for six or seven hundred quid per night."

His friend Sean wasn’t so lucky. The Dubliner faces a roundabout route through central Europe. But he still considers himself one of the luckier ones: "I know lads who are doing boats from Cork to San Sebastian. And it’s 30 hours on a boat. I’ve often done a day trip to Anfield on a boat and I’d be pulling my hair out. So I’ll be thinking of those boys when I’ve my feet up in Frankfurt Airport waiting to get to Madrid."

The costs have been a big talking point ahead of the final in Spain’s capital. With hotels accused of gouging loyal football fans who will seemingly pay anything to be there. One plush hotel is charging €30,000 for a night that includes a VIP match "experience" and access to a fleet of fancy cars. 

At the other end of the scale the Open Hostel in central Madrid is expecting a wild weekend. The old redbrick walls have been decorated in Liverpool and Beatles memorabilia. And well they might. They’re asking €500 per night for a single bed in a four-bed dorm.  

Staff member Ana Antesana says desperate fans have been asking to sleep on a couch or out on the terrace.  "They’ve been calling up and asking, 'do you have anywhere?' But it’s against the rules," she laughs.

Match tickets are even harder to find. On the black market they’re changing hands for up to €9,000. Fans remain hopeful.

Martin Kirby and his three friends from Limerick booked their trip just after the semi-final. After a rough night in Malaga they’re on the train to Madrid dressed in replica Liverpool jerseys from Crown Paints to Candy, looking a little worse for wear.

"Oh we’re on the hunt for tickets alright. We’ll see when we get up there," he says.

"Probably €500 is our budget max, like. We’ll see after that. But probably when we get up there and we’re drunk we’ll go to €1200," he chuckles. 

As the train cuts through the dusty brown central plains of Spain the lads reflect on the madness of the passionate bond between Liverpool and its Irish fans. 

"You find strange Spurs fans maybe you mightn’t expect… like Peter Robinson of the DUP, Tommie Gorman, Northern Editor, Tony O’Donoghue so they are out there"

"We just had to be there. Once we get to the squares and get the chants going it’ll be something else," says Shay Fox.

Liverpool FC reporter for the Liverpool Echo newspaper James Pearce says the ticketing situation is something that has to change. "It feels like Groundhog Day every time Liverpool get to a major final unfortunately. It’s the same old issues and the buck stops with UEFA. Sadly they just don’t seem to listen. For each finalist only to get 17,000 tickets in a stadium that holds 64,000 is just completely unacceptable."

Tottenham’s rollercoaster season has encouraged their Irish fans too. Among them is RTÉ News Political Correspondent Paul Cunningham who says he fell in love with Spurs when he saw Glenn Hoddle play for the first time back in 1980. 

During a week of first counts and second preferences, he’s been canvassing for his beloved Tottenham to top the poll on Saturday night: "Back then I thought European glory was going to come easy.

"Thirty-five years later, we’re finally back again. You find strange Spurs fans maybe you mightn’t expect… like Peter Robinson of the DUP, Tommie Gorman, Northern Editor, Tony O’Donoghue... so they are out there. You mightn’t see them very often but they are out there."

Madrid’s Plaza Mayor has a family feel with a football festival in full swing. A legends match takes place on a makeshift pitch laid down on the historic cobbles.

While the nearby Puerto de Sol is where the party is. By lunchtime, hundreds of Spurs and Liverpool fans are well on the beer dancing shirtless and chanting rival songs. Despite it being a clash of two English teams, there’s a strong international flavour. One Spurs fan has come from Canada.

His grandfather was a Spurs fan who emigrated to Vancouver and he’s keeping the tradition alive. While a family of Liverpool fans have flown for 24 hours to come in from Australia.

All talk is of the game. "It’s a tough one to call. Everyday I flip flop between Liverpool winning 4-0 and losing to a late goal," says Steve Daly to laughter.

While James Pearce thinks it will be cagey. "The one thing we know with Liverpool is even when they’ve won European trophies over the years they’ve put us through the ringer." 

Spurs fans are quietly confident with many hoping for a narrow win. Paul Cunningham says they deserve it. "After 35 years of suffering it’s fair to say we should take home the cup," he smiles. 

Follow Liverpool v Tottenham in the Champions League final with our live blog on RTÉ.ie and the RTÉ News Now App from 7pm.

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