It's the smell. It hits you the minute you land at the airport. In fact it hits you on the plane as you start to descend.
Rotorua has the nickname 'Sulphur City' because of the hydrogen sulphide emissions which gives the place a 'rotten eggs' aroma. It's everywhere and it takes some getting used to.
The Polynesian Spa is next to the Government Gardens in the city centre, and thermal activity is at the centre of much of Rotorua's appeal. Geysers and hot thermal pools are everywhere.
When the Lions line out against the Maori All Blacks at Rotorua International Stadium this Saturday (8.35am, live on RTÉ Radio and live blog on rte.ie), they'll feel all the intensity, the heat, the sweat, brawn and muscle of a unique challenge.
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Viewed as the unofficial fourth Test, there's also the strange feeling that this fixture closes a circle, with lines of symmetry etched across this fifth game of the tour.
There's some famous faces from this place. All Black great 'Buck' Shelford was born in Rotorua, as was Liam Messam, who's played more times for the Chiefs than any man in their history.
Dylan Hartley too - who had the ignominy of making some unwanted history back in April when he became the third successive England captain to miss out on selection for the Lions - is a Rotorua man.
I wonder who he'll be cheering for...
Twelve years ago, the last time the Lions came to these parts, their most ferocious match came against the Maori All Blacks in Hamilton.
Jono Gibbes was their captain that night and it was frightening to see the calibre of players the Kiwis could afford to leave out for their Test panel as Clive Woodward's men, battered into submission, fell to a 19-13 defeat.
Gibbes was formidable in a brilliant display for his team then; and he'll take the reins at Ulster next season having spent time at Leinster and Clermont as forwards coach. Leinster-bound James Lowe is in the Maori squad, another connection to the European visitors.
The Maoris toured Europe last November of course and played their part in another one of those incredible Thomond Park nights were the place seems to be sprinkled with something impossible to define.
Their trip to Limerick came just after Ireland's famous defeat of New Zealand in Chicago, and just three weeks after the passing of Anthony Foley.
In a beautiful gesture, Maori captain Ash Dixon laid down a jersey before the Munster players with the initials 'AF' just before the haka.
Afterwards, Dixon presented the shirt to Foley's two sons.
Sport does that sometimes; puts lumps in throats and goosebumps on skin.
Munster drove to a memorable 27-14 win - it was the Maoris only loss on that tour - and we'll hope that Saturday gives us more beauty and imagery in the Land of the Long White Cloud.
Warren Gatland and Co know they're in for another immense showdown. And how could they not?
You can smell it in the air.
