Journalist Eamon Donoghue went on a family trip to New Zealand to explore breathtaking views, rich Māori culture, and the Hobbiton movie set.
The mantra for our dream family holiday to New Zealand was one of Gandalf's most iconic quotes: "All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us." That time was two weeks, and we decided to make every day count.
Our family are Lord of the Rings mega‑fans, and for my step‑dad’s 50th birthday, we fulfilled his dream of travelling to Middle‑earth.
Within a 60-hour round trip between Dublin and Auckland, we set out to experience our Lord of the Rings bucket‑list items, take in the unique Māori culture, and witness the dramatic, ever‑changing landscapes across both islands - from volcanic plateaus and geothermal valleys to alpine peaks, fjords, and turquoise lakes.
Travelling over the Christmas and New Year period, the country’s peak season at the start of their summer, it was a lot to take on. This is how we did it.
North Island
Auckland isn’t the capital - that honour belongs to Wellington - but it is the country’s largest city and, by far, has the strongest "big city" feel amid an otherwise very rural vibe. A great city to explore on foot - from the harbour in the city centre, Mission Bay beach is a very popular 6km running route in one direction. In the opposite direction, you can reach Herne Bay in roughly half the time.
Our base for exploring the North Island was around a two‑hour drive from Auckland. The Lakeview Lodge Kapapiro was the dream location for day trips to Lake Taupō, Coromandel and Rotorua.
As well as being picture‑perfect, the lodge had two double bedrooms and eight single beds in another downstairs basement suite - easily enough space for my mum, step‑dad, brother, sister, nephew and me.
Waking up to breathtaking lake views and the surrounding 40-hectare farm, it was easy to see why The Lord of the Rings screenwriter Philippa Boyens has stayed here, and why director Peter Jackson has also been a visitor.
Helen and her team ensured we enjoyed the privacy of a lodge retreat, with service on par with the best hotels - breakfast supplies replenished most days, fresh bed and towel changes, and we even woke up to presents on Christmas morning.
The lodge's location was best of all for visiting the Hobbiton movie set - home of the hobbits of the Shire from the famed books and film trilogies. Visiting on just our second day felt like opening our Christmas presents early, and it lived up to every expectation.
Our guide, Stevie - an absolute encyclopaedia of Middle-earth knowledge - even knew Merry and Pippin’s drinking songs. We explored the 44 hobbit holes, each one crafted with remarkable detail and character. It holds the Guinness World Record as the largest purpose-built film set in the world.
The pinch-yourself moment came when stepping inside one of the hobbit houses, belonging to the Proudfoot family. Built at 82% of human scale - from the instruments and beds to the kitchen utensils and low ceilings - it feels wonderfully authentic, and if you're tall, like me, you quickly learn to mind your head. A movement which transports you straight into the world J.R.R. Tolkien so masterfully created.
To top it all off, we enjoyed lunch and a drink at the Green Dragon Inn - right where Samwise Gamgee plucked up the courage to make his move on Rosie Cotton. Our family was served in true hobbit fashion, with enough food to feel like a second breakfast, elevenses, luncheon, dinner, and supper all rolled into one. How do you top that?
The next day, we drove just under an hour to Rotorua, one of the region's richest in Māori culture - the Indigenous people of Aotearoa New Zealand. Our first stop was the Hell’s Gate Mud Bath and Spa, which we were surprised to learn was named by Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw, who is still fondly remembered there following a visit in the 1930s.
That afternoon, we also visited the nearby Mitai Māori Village. From the warriors’ arrival in traditional waka (canoes) down the lake, to the underground-cooked hāngī meal - chicken and lamb, with the local sweet potato stealing the show - to the question‑and‑answer session and powerful haka performance, it was an unforgettable display of culture and pride.
The following day, we drove for an hour and a half to visit Lake Taupō, which was arguably the most beautiful part of the North Island we got to see. Along with the Taupo Sailing Adventures’ Māori Rock Carvings cruise - where a catamaran brings you right up to intricately carved cliff faces - we also swam in the lake on the way back. With all the driving and exploring, food mattered, and our standout meal of the entire trip was hands‑down at Bistro Lago in Taupō.
The menu was created by celebrity chef Gareth Stewart using only locally sourced ingredients. Between us our highlights were the eye fillet steak and Ora King Salmon - both from the grill. The latter is, according to the chef, the best salmon in the world, and it’s definitely the best I’ve tasted.
As well as the Taupo lamb rump and the freshly caught Bluff oysters. The deserts are a must too, with the Whittaker’s triple-layer chocolate tart proving a big hit with my nephew. Nestled within the lush greenery and overlooking the lake, it was lovely to relax here after eating, but still a very short drive to the town centre.
Many of our tickets were booked through Happy Travels, who also arranged our eight‑seater car rental. When we encountered issues with air conditioning and other problems, they were quick to step in and resolve them with their partners.
Our final day trip from the lodge was to Tauranga Beach for a very different kind of Christmas Day. The sun finally came out to make for a surreal beach-barbecue celebration. We then hiked up the Mauao Summit Walk to work some of it off.
The next day brought our longest drive, taking the scenic route to Wellington - via Mount Doom (Mount Ngauruhoe) and Gollum’s Pool (Tawhai Falls).
Here we visited the award‑winning Wētā Workshop, where Richard Taylor and his team created the art, weapons, armour and special effects for The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, and countless other films such as Avatar and King Kong.
Seeing Sauron’s crown, Gimli’s axe and other props up close was incredible, and we even got to try on some less treasured pieces with countless photograph opportunities, including the giant trolls who guard the entrance and the Uruk-hai warrior just inside.
From Wellington, we took the Interislander ferry across to Picton, a classic part of any New Zealand road trip and the main link between the North and South Islands. Despite an incoming storm, the crossing was smooth enough to nap, and the roughly three-and-a-half-hour journey through the Marlborough Sounds also offered sweeping coastal views.
Onboard, breakfast and treats were plentiful, the leg room generous, and the drive-on, drive-off process seamless - a comfortable and stress-free way to travel. We were worried after reading media reports of ferry cancellations over the Christmas period, but the Interislander lived up to the recommendations we had received as the most reliable and scenic way to traverse the Cook Strait.
South Island
Arriving in Picton amid stormy conditions, and at this stage already entirely sold on New Zealand's wine*, we dedicated the day to exploring the Marlborough wineries, renowned for their vibrant Sauvignon Blanc.
On to Christchurch, we faced another five-hour drive, stopping along the way to see the Kaikoura Seal Colony. These drives, while spectacular, were on narrow roads, with virtually no hard shoulder and plenty of reckless overtaking. We counted four air‑rescue helicopter operations over two weeks.
In Christchurch, the combo of historic tram line, Botanic Gardens tour, and gondola trip gave us a great feel for a quaint little city that has been impressively rebuilt following the 2011 earthquake. Hagley Park, one of the largest urban parks in the Southern Hemisphere, hosted well-known New Zealand rock band Kora and a fireworks display on New Year’s Eve. All for free.
We broke the long journey to Queenstown with a stop at the Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo - one of the most photographed places in New Zealand. The glacial‑fed lake’s striking turquoise colour with the snow‑capped mountains beyond makes it easy to see why.
Queenstown was, for me, the standout city of the trip. Nestled on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, with the Southern Alps rising around it. On our first day, we raced down the Skyline luges. The next day, we went on a Nomad Safaris Lord of the Rings tour to Glenorchy, a scenic four‑plus‑hour outing exploring the landscapes that served as the backdrop for scenes of Isengard, Lothlórien and Ithilien.
Dressing up and sword‑playing in the heart of Middle‑earth was a childlike moment I’m not even slightly ashamed of.
We saved the best for last, however. Milford Sound is the most visited place in New Zealand and is considered by many to be the eighth wonder of the world. Its deep fjords were carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age, its U‑shaped valley flooded by the sea and flanked by towering cliffs rising over 1,200 metres.
We took the Milford Sound business‑class tour, and from pick‑up just around the corner from our hotel, the entire experience felt deluxe. The scenic views, excellent guide, complimentary refreshments, tea and coffee stops, warm face towels, photo stops, and the dramatic moment emerging from the Homer Tunnel to glimpse Milford Sound through the panoramic glass roof - all set the stage.
The boat itself then had three spacious viewing decks and a beautifully curated five‑course tasting menu designed by award‑winning chef Tom Hishon, whose "Taste of Murihiku" cuisine highlights the wild, local flavours of Southland - from freshwater eel and blackfoot pāua to Fiordland wapiti and seasonal tītī - paired with Cloudy Bay sparkling wine and shaped by the very landscape unfolding outside the windows.
We passed iconic waterfalls such as Stirling Falls, which drops about 155m straight into the water. Standing on the front deck, the crew say that feeling the fall's spray makes you 10 years younger.
Milford Sound is stunning in all weather: morning rain turned its cliffs into dozens of cascading ribbons, while later sunshine lit up the deep blue water and jagged peaks. Mist, reflections and 360‑degree views combined to create something truly magical.
Considering everything included - the premium cruise, gourmet menu, panoramic views and long four‑hour drive each way - the cost - roughly €355 per person - actually felt reasonable. A lot does in New Zealand, with the euro basically worth double.
That was our final day of adventure, before flying from Queenstown to Auckland and then homeward. After all that travel, I think even Gandalf would be proud.
A once‑in‑a‑lifetime trip - truly one to rule them all.
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ
