Tara Povey visits the once-thriving centre of Motown and motors, which is going through a rebirth and celebrating its architecture, its music and its pizza.
Ask anyone about Detroit and they'll say "Motor City". Back in the early 1900s Detroit was known as the "Automotive Capital of the World" and to this day Ford, Chrysler and General Motors are all headquartered in the metropolitan area.
Subsequently, it was only fitting that I drove into Detroit; granted it was in a Korean car, but we’ll forget that detail.
Despite its automotive success, Detroit has a rocky history. The city declared bankruptcy in 2013 and is now back on the rise after a lot of hard work. It’s not a pristine, polished metropolis and, honestly, that is part of its appeal.
Detroit feels more edgy and authentic than any other major American city I’ve visited. This city is surprising; it’s the very definition of "don’t judge a book by its cover".
Things to do/see in Detroit
I spent three days in Detroit as a guest of Visit Detroit, and while I packed a lot into my visit, I absolutely could have stayed longer. I stayed in The Westin Buck Cadillac, which was a great base for exploring downtown Detroit, especially with a stop for the free Detroit People Mover just across the street.
First things first, I booked a walking tour with Distinctively Detroit led by local legend, Phat Kat (Ron Watts). This was a great way to hit all the highlights of downtown, find my feet and get recommendations from a local.
Detroit is famous for its contributions to the music industry, most importantly, Motown Records. The Motown Museum gives you a glimpse inside the original recording studio. The studio tour is short, but loaded with info and even includes a couple of sing-alongs that I guarantee you will know all the words to.
What really surprised me about Detroit was the unassuming buildings that were more than they seemed. The Detroit public library, for example, looks completely ordinary, but step inside and you’re whisked away to a palace in a faraway kingdom - all marble and high ceilings.
Check out the Fisher Building and the Guardian Building for more mind-blowing interiors. If you’re looking for an Insta-worthy shot, you’ll find it in one of these spectacular art deco buildings.
Eastern Market is the place to be on a Saturday. Wandering through the stalls full of fresh produce and flowers, iced coffee in hand, is my idea of a perfect morning. If, like me, you love street art, then you’ll want to spend hours in this neighbourhood, mural-hunting and popping into local boutiques to pick up souvenirs.
Another Detroit neighbourhood that’s worth visiting is Corktown. It’s Detroit’s oldest neighbourhood and was originally founded by Irish immigrants, so maybe I’m biased. It's a great spot full of independent breweries, bars and restaurants. Not to mention, more murals!
If you’re a sports fan (and even if you’re not), watching the Detroit Tigers play a baseball game is something everyone should experience. I have no idea what the rules of baseball are - apparently it’s not just a giant game of rounders - but I know I love the atmosphere of a game.
Things to eat in Detroit
We have to talk about Detroit-style pizza. Buddy’s Pizza is where the fluffy, square pizza style was invented back in 1945, using a steel auto pan to bake it (Motor City, after all!). Locals all have their opinions on where serves the best slice, but I had to try the original from Buddy’s. It did not disappoint.
I’m not sure if you’ve ever heard of Eminem? Or watched the cult classic that is 8 Mile? You have? Ok, then a visit to Mom’s Spaghetti, where you can try the infamous spaghetti sandwich, is a must.
They also have an off-beat Eminem merch shop in the "trailer" upstairs that gives off extreme Stan vibes.
Cutters Bar and Grill, in Eastern Market, was once featured on a very grim episode of Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown series. Its bleak exterior and general lack of windows originally put me off.
But this is Detroit, and nothing is what it seems. Once you get inside, Cutters is bright and spacious, serving an incredible fried pickle and local Faygo soda. If I were fond of the overused phrase "hidden gem", I would use it to describe Cutters.
Not a breakfast person? Then you can go ahead and skip this paragraph, but for the rest of you, Iggy’s Eggies walk-up window serves the most perfect crispy hash browns I’ve ever tasted, not to mention their insane breakfast sandwiches.
Dime Store is the spot for incredible waffles if you’ve got a sweet tooth. I ordered the Double Rainbow Waffle, full of Fruity Pebbles cereal, whipped cream, and raspberry purée. I had zero regrets.
For drinks, it has to be The Belt. This reimagined alleyway is like a living gallery filled with murals and creations from local artists. Between those artworks are bars, restaurants and plenty of outdoor seating. This is essentially the Drury Street of Detroit.
Detroit is a city on the rise, full of resilient people and unbridled creativity. Direct flights from Dublin, launched this year by Delta, make Detroit a great USA city break destination if you’re adventurous enough to give it a chance.
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ.
