Leaving Los Angeles for the 100-mile drive West, the weather was dull, damp and unseasonably cool. But once past Malibu, the haze cleared and it was blue skies and warm July sunshine all along the gorgeous California coast to the city of Santa Barbara.
The approach to the town centre was equally idyllic with the majestic mountains keeping guard behind while the endless ocean rolled into the eyeline from the left, gently caressing the golden brown sands of Santa Barbara’s East Beach.
The picture postcard appeared complete but, less than an hour later, taking a kayak trip around the easy inlet, I found myself in the company of not one but two dancing dolphins setting a gentle pace no more than ten yards ahead in the rolling waves of this seemingly spectacular capital of the American Riviera.
The dolphins departed and the kayak tour continued as we paddled against the current towards the pier. A brief history of Santa Barbara and its surroundings was interspersed with amusing anecdotes of the town, the surrounding hills and its famous residents.
A bit of concentration was needed to negotiate the pier’s supporting beams and the lazy sea lions that were loitering with intent in the darkened depths below.
Safely through and a jaunt around the jetty for a close up view of the stylish yachts and boats before a sand spit stop to stretch the now aching limbs and a dab of factor 30 for the nose and shoulders.
After lunch it was time to explore the town. A quick detour along Stearns Wharf before strolling up State Street, which runs right through the centre of this ever-so-pretty town.
You could walk the streets of downtown Santa Barbara for hours, days in fact, admiring the Spanish Revival and Moorish architecture on the Red Tile walking tour, enjoying a break in one of the many coffee shops, browsing the classics in California’s oldest used book store, the Book Den, getting your chocolate fix at Cocoa Loco, musing at the Museum of Art, appreciating a glass of local Pinot Noir or just going crazy with your credit card in the fashionista friendly boutiques.
Gastronomy is a big part of the Santa Barbara experience with great restaurants available for all price ranges. The San Ysidro Ranch is one of the best hotels in California and its Stonehouse restaurant is a firm favourite with the rich and famous, of which there are many in these parts.
The food, service, ambience and terrace setting created the perfect dining experience and the house specialty SYR’s Famous Tortilla Soup with grilled chicken and avocado was worth the trek up the Santa Barbara hills alone.
The following morning took me further into the Santa Ynez mountains for a two-hour horse-riding trek through the Rancho Oso Ranch and Resort.
My only previous equine encounter was a nightmare-inducing spree on a bandy-legged donkey on Portmarnock beach in my very early years, so to say I was a bit apprehensive as I clambered onto my new best friend, Ghost, was a bit of an understatement.
But I needn’t have worried. The pace was slow and Ghost appeared in total control, whether we were climbing up steep rocky paths or wading through riverbeds. Although once he decided to stop for a nibble on the grassy banks, there really was very little you could do but sit it out.
I left the Rancho Oso with a real sense of achievement and just a touch of saddle soreness as the long winding roads dived downwards into what can only be described as Sideways country, the vineyards of California’s central coast.
The scenery is stunning, driving through the heart of the Los Olivos/Santa Ynez wine trail. And Los Olivos was the perfect place to stop for lunch as it is home to several wine tasting rooms, excellent eateries, local olive oil tasting, an inn and plenty of shops.
There is so much to see and do on this Californian coastline and the surrounding area. I barely scratched the surface of the tip of the Santa Barbara iceberg and could easily have filled another week in this most memorable of destinations. The American Riviera is definitely one of those places that you will keep coming back to.
Things to Do/Places to Visit:
Kayak Santa Barbara – Rent a kayak from the Santa Barbara Adventure Co on East Beach and explore the relatively flat waters of Santa Barbara. Kayaking excursions are also available on the Channel Islands and paddle boarding is another very popular way of exploring the coastal waters. For further information visit www.sbadventureco.com
Rancho Oso Trail Ride – Explore the Californian wilderness for a few hours with a guided horse-riding tour at the Rancho Oso Ranch & Resort. For further information visit www.rancho-oso.com
Stearns Wharf & Santa Barbara Harbour – Visit the West Coast’s oldest operating wharf and one of Santa Barbara’s iconic landmarks. Stop by Santa Barbara Shellfish Company, Ty Warner Sea Centre, Coastal Winery and explore the shops and dining establishments.
Whale Watching – The waters off the coast of Santa Barbara are prime locations for whale watching. Daily boating excursions travel out to the nearby Channel Islands.
The Funk Zone – The Funk Zone is a mixed-use area east of State Street (between State, Garden, Yanonali and Mason Streets) by the waterfront and is now known for its eclectic mix of artists, surfboard shapers, skilled craft workers as well as locally-owned shops, art studios, galleries and wine tasting rooms. Highlights include Red’s Urban Wine Bar, Al Merrick’s Channel Islands Surfboards, Beach House, Santa Barbara Surfing Museum and Santa Barbara Winery.
Mission Santa Barbara – Named the ‘Queen of the Missions’ for its distinctive twin bell towers, the Mission is a great example of Franciscan Spanish architecture and is one of the top attractions in Santa Barbara.
Shop 'Til You Drop
Santa Barbara’s primary retail hub is centralised in downtown on 
State Street, with a rich assortment of boutiques and shops spanning ten blocks from Sola Street down to Gutierrez Street. Paseo Nuevo offers a variety of upscale retail outlets, boutiques and eateries in an inviting open-air environment.
For more information about Santa Barbara, visit www.santabarbaraca.com
Ed Leahy
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