Dubrovnik's main drag, known as Stradun, has an amazing pure marble floor that is so shiny and clean you can almost see your reflection in it. Even the most mature tourist would find it hard to suppress the childish urge to take off their shoes and slide around in their socks. Although George Bernard Shaw might have kept a similar impulse under wraps, he did admit his enchantment with the city when he said: "Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik."
This image of paradise is first apparent on the drive from the airport. The road widens around a hill with a dramatic drop down to a stunning coastline, complete with turquoise water. Then the old city comes into view. Hundreds of pale, yellow buildings topped with terra cotta-tiled roofs are packed inside a circular, walled fortress. It's so perfect that it's hard to believe that this is a modern day town; it looks more like a fairytale city.
On closer inspection the city is just as beautiful. Enter the city through any one of Dubrovnik's three city gates and wander down one of the world's noblest streets, the Stradun, or get lost in its maze of alleyways, plazas and churches. The city is spick and span, with the buildings and pavements looking like they have been scrubbed clean. Even the road signage is tastefully designed - removable canvas banners that blend in perfectly with the medieval city.
There is no motorised transport inside the walls, giving Dubrovnik a tranquil ambience which makes it hard to believe it was under siege just 19 years ago. In 1991 Dubrovnik was a battleground in the Yugoslavian civil war: 2,000 shells fell on the old town and more the 40 people were killed. The bullet and shrapnel holes are still visible today.
Another good way to learn about Croatia's turbulent past is to visit the gallery just off the Stratum, War Photo Limited. It's owned and curated by photojournalist Wade Goddard and displays shocking photos from war-torn countries.
But today the biggest battle to be had is getting through the throngs of tourists that pack into the old city every summer. Dubrovnik is Croatia's tourism cash cow, and the high volume of tourists can be off-putting. During the day the crowds swell with day trippers who have disembarked from massive cruise ships. To avoid, it's best to do your sightseeing in the early morning or at evening time.
It's easy to understand why the city is so popular; it has a good mix of historical and natural attractions. It also offers good food, nightlife and shopping as well as a beautiful coastline and a Mediterranean climate. The most popular tourist activity is to walk the city wall which takes about an hour. Built in the 13th and 16th centuries, the walls are still intact today and provide a bird's eye view of Dubrovnik and the surrounding coastline.
Another way to get a perspective of the city walls is to do a kayaking trip around them. Leaving from the Pile Gate, there are a few operators who offer half-day trips for €32. The trip starts with a kayak around Lokrum Island and then moves on to a cave on the mainland where you rest for some lunch and a snorkel before journeying around the outside of the city walls.
Lokrum is worthy of a separate day trip and ferries leave every half-hour from the old town to the Unesco-protected national park. It's not possible to stay the night there but there is plenty to keep you occupied during the day; a botanical garden, medieval Benedictine monastery and loads of rocky areas to swim and sunbathe in. Naturists will also be in their element at the popular nudist areas.
Other popular day excursions are to the rural Elaphite Islands, the pilgrimage town of Medjugorje and the Republic of Montenegro. The costal town of Cavtat is a great place to marvel at the outrageously big boats that dock in the charming harbour or just to relax on one of the beaches.
But you don't need to leave the city to go for a swim. Banje beach is just a five-minute walk from the Ploce Gate and there are numerous rocky areas dotted around the city walls that are used for bathing or kamikaze-type rock jumping. One of the best places for this is Café Buza, otherwise known as The Hole in the Wall. This 'must-do' bar/swimming area is through a small doorway in the city walls which faces out to the open sea.
History buffs will be kept busy with the number of sights in the old town. Among them is the Onofrio Fountain which was built in 1438 and still functions today as a water supply system. The water is drinkable, providing a good way to save money and the environment. The Franciscan monastery contains one of the oldest working pharmacies in Europe, in business since 1391. The Treasury has a priceless collection of silverware and gold dating from the 11th to the 19th century.
Despite these historic buildings dotting the streets, it's difficult to find shops that aren't directly targeting the tourist market. They are mostly a mix of souvenir shops, jewellery and clothes shops. One place that stood out was Hrvoje Cikato's barber shop. The shop walls are cluttered with bird cages piled on top of one another, old barber equipment and photos of the shop's life before and after the bombings of 1991. Although Hrvoje speaks little English you can tell he is a character and a shave in this shop makes for an authentic Croatian experience.
The flight to Dubrovnik is just under three hours so perfectly accessible for a weekend break, although most Irish tourists tend to stay for a week. I travelled as a part of an escorted tour with The Travel Department. This weeklong package afforded me the time to mix a city break and a beach holiday. The three-star Hotel Tirena is situated in the peninsula of Babin Kuk which is 10 minutes on the reliable local bus. This area is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the old city. Its beaches lend themselves perfectly to relaxation or, for the more energetic, a kayak, jet ski or a dive.
The tour was on a half-board basis and the buffet breakfast and dinner had a good range of food. There are two-and-a-half days of optional excursions, providing ample time for those who prefer to be more independent.
Deirdre Mullins
Deirdre Mullins was a guest of The Travel Department.
The Travel Department offers a seven-night trip to Dubrovnik with prices starting from €619 plus taxes. It includes direct flights with Aer Lingus from Dublin, transfers and 3* hotel accommodation on a half-board basis. The holiday also features escorted tours of Dubrovnik, Medjugorje and a boat trip led by a local guide.
The Travel Department's destinations range from popular sightseeing, cultural and weekend locations through to motorsports, garden, wine, single-friendly and cruise holidays and activity breaks.
For more, visit: www.thetraveldepartment.ie or telephone: 01 637 1600.
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