I found myself in the highest resort in Europe, Val Thorens, quietly confident that my ski skills would get me safely to the end of the 'unofficial red' (intermediate) slope. This unrealistic view had come from a previous instructor on my one and only other ski holiday. He was inclined to be a bit generous with his compliments, and gave me a skewed notion regarding my ski ability.
Our group had people of various levels of ability and we segregated ourselves into advanced, intermediate and beginner groups. I confidently opted for intermediate.
The hotel was perfectly located less than 100 yards from the ski area, to which I clumsily walked, Charlie Chaplin-style.
This is where I faced my first hurdle. The magic carpet or travelator was broken. So my first time skiing in two years I had to negotiate my way down an 'unofficial red'. I attempted it with a brave face but failed miserably. All I could hear was the whoosh of 'real' skiers gracefully gliding by me while I resembled a couch potato who hadn't mobilised in two years.
With flaying arms and legs and a few falls I got to the bottom injury-free. Unfortunately my dignity did not escape uninjured and my 'intermediate' group politely suggested that I be bumped back to 'babies', and like a scorned dog I reluctantly went back to basics.
It's bad enough attempting to learn a new skill as an adult, but the sight of the kid skiers make it especially hard for me. I decided that they were not actually children but 'Tellytubbies' on skis with the smug smile of an adult. Thankfully my instructor, Michel, distracted me enough that I didn't verbally abuse them as they whizzed by me. He got me going through the motions of snowplough and turning and a few hours later I was back to my former glory.
The following day I was given a chance to redeem myself and was let back in to the intermediate group and we explored the extensive ski area that Val Thorens has to offer. Not only did they teach me how to ski but also that it is best to downplay your ability in order to avoid setting yourself up for a fall - literally.
Why Val Thorens? The Val Thorens ski area has many advantages over other resorts. Lying at 2,300 metres, it's the highest resort in Europe, which means it has an extra long season. It's a part of the Trois Vallées (Three Valleys), which is linked to the other top class resorts of Méribel and Courchevel, as well as to St Martin and Les Menuires. The Three Valleys is the biggest ski area in the world, with 600km of slopes and eight resorts. Val Thorens alone boasts 140km of ski area and 68 slopes, of which eight are green, 27 blue, 25 red and eight black. There is also a snow park.
Best Run
Cime de Caron provides the highest skiing in The Three Valleys at a whopping 3,200m. Even if you are not that adventurous it is worth going up in the cable car for its incredible clear view of Mount Blanc.
Après Ski There are plenty of bars to warm yourself in after a day on the mountain. Bars such as Le Saloon, Le Viking and the Frog and Roastbeef all have lively action and pack the revellers in. The eight-lane bowling centre is a popular spot and also has pool tables and a sports bar that stays opens until 2am.
For dancing there are a few nightclubs to choose from, the most popular of these is Malaysia. Its small entrance is deceptive as it's a huge, underground club with pool tables. The clubs don't get going until after midnight and end at about 4am.
Off Ski Activity If the weather is bad, you get injured or simply just want a day off from skiing, there is plenty to keep you busy. The sports centre has various indoor sports, two swimming pools and a wellness centre. The toboggan run is 300m high and a trip lasts about 45 minutes - the night time run is fun and a little scary. Other activities include snowshoeing, paragliding and winter mountain biking. Or if you fancy a bit of culture there are free jazz concerts every Tuesday at 6.30pm in the church.
Where to Eat
Cheese Fondue is a specialty of the region and the best place to enjoy is La Joyeuse Fondue. Or you could spoil yourself in the best restaurant in Val Thorens, the Michelin-stared L'Oxaly. The head chef, Jean Sulpice, also runs cooking lessons. On Wednesday and Sunday afternoons for two hours you can cook and eat five small dishes and a glass of Champagne for €60 www.restaurant-loxalys.fr.
Best Time to Go Val Thorens is one of the first resorts to open each year in Europe because of its high altitude. The season runs from early December to mid April. However, its extreme height can have some drawbacks; in early winter the weather can be overcast, cloudy and rainy and because there are little trees in Val Thorens this means that even a small bit of cloud can affect visibility. With this in mind, mid February onwards can offer the best snow and weather.
Who Skis There?
Val Thorens is said to be one of France's most international ski resorts. The international contingent is a mix of English, Irish, Dutch, Germans and Spanish. It's also popular with British college students, who come en masse.
How Do I Get There?
Topflight brings skiers to Val Thorens. Departing 6 March 2010 from Dublin, the 3*, self-catering Le Cheval Blanc Apartments cost from €419pps or departing 13 March from €459pps. Visit: www.topflight.ie or call: 01 2401700.
For information on Val Thorens visit: www.valthorens.com.
Deirdre Mullins
Deirdre Mullins was a guest of Topflight.
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