As night falls, a three-word, floodlit message illuminates the hill that stands guard over the town of Agadir.
One of the local jostlers asked me what I thought it translated as. Being the start of January, I was more than impressed with my attempted Arabic.
"Happy New Year", I said - an educated guess. My reply seemed to trigger a deep laughter reserved only for the most obscure of answers.
"God, King, Country" was the eventual reply as he composed himself, patting me on the shoulder. And then he asked me did I want some marijuana.
Welcome to Agadir.
One minute it appears as part of a deeply religious, Muslim country - which it is - and the next you realise that you are in a tourist resort and the usual rules apply.
Located on the southwest coast of Morocco, at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, Agadir is almost as far south as the Canary Islands, so its climate boasts year-round sunshine with daytime temperatures rarely falling below 20 degrees Celsius.
In 1960, Agadir was hit with a devastating earthquake, which almost completely destroyed the town, killing 15,000.
King Muhammad V vowed to rebuild the city saying, "If Destiny decided the destruction of Agadir, its rebuilding depends of our Faith and Will."
The town centre now boasts a population of around 200,000 and you get the feeling that it is trying to reinvent itself as a year-round tourist destination to rival the nearby party islands of Gran Canaria and Tenerife.
I spent my first day exploring the town to see what was on offer. It's a bit of a stroll uphill to see the remaining ruins of the ancient Kasbah, but well worth the walk, as it gives you a sense of the old Agadir complemented by stunning aerial views of the spectacular crescent beach and the waves rolling in off the Atlantic Ocean.
The stroll down is a lot easier and a small but quaint harbour awaits at the foot of the hill. The marina is still a work in progress but not too far off completion with many designer shops and trendy restaurants earmarked for the vacant sites.
The seafront boasts many beautiful hotels and fine restaurants, and the latest arrival, the broad, red-brick promenade, which runs parallel the length of the beach, is ideal for an early evening run, if the energy levels permit.
And despite it being low season, there was a great mix of tourists and locals out and about for their Sunday stroll, which gave the town a nice, authentic feel.
There wasn't too much that was authentic about the burger and chips that I devoured in Café Del Mar for lunch, but the laidback atmosphere and Balearic tunes allowed me to take a bit of time to watch the surf roll in knowing that things were at a very different kind of a standstill back home in snow-covered Dublin.
Where to Stay
Before you go to Agadir, you must decide what type of holiday you are looking for.
If all you want is to escape for some winter sun and avail of the all-inclusive option, straying no further than the pool or the private beach, then Agadir ticks all the boxes.
If it's adventure you are looking for, Agadir is only a day-trip away from some real African escapades, whether it's visiting the famous towns of Marrakech, Casablanca or Essaouira, taking camel rides in the nearby sand dunes or hiring a motorbike or jeep to explore the Sahara Desert.
Everything revolves around the impressive three-kilometre sandy beach so it is worth your while to pay that little bit extra to book a hotel close to the sea.
Staying in the Agadir Beach Club, my room was very spacious and included a separate living area and a balcony overlooking the beach and sea - the ideal spot for the spectacular sunsets that produced veritable kaleidoscopes of colour beneath the darkening clouds.
The hotel boasts a huge swimming pool and sun-lounging area, five restaurants, a kids club, adult activities of the sporting variety, tennis courts, a gym and spa - the list goes on and on.
The staff appeared to outnumber the guests and you wouldn't have to budge from the poolside from breakfast until nightfall with all your needs tended to.
The hotel also boasts a private section of the adjoining beach with all the usual accoutrements available.
Eating Out
One area that puts Agadir on a par with any other tourist resort is the quality and choice of restaurants in close proximity to the resort centre. All of the top hotels have very decent dining options, while there are many more dotted about the town. La Scala is one of the most popular with locals and tourists alike, boasting top-notch food and service to match. Be sure to make a reservation beforehand as it's busy even in the low season.
A wide range of European and Moroccan options are available, which should suit even the fussiest of tourists, and you won't go too far wrong with the local dish of choice, tagine, and a bottle of Moroccan Medallion red wine.
The pub scene leaves a lot to be desired, although you will find you Sky Sports fix if you search hard enough. And it pains me to say it, but an Irish Bar would be a welcome addition if only to stop us getting subjected to the hotel house band that does more butchering than the local abattoir.
Things to Do/Places to Visit
Marrakech - The hustle and bustle of this old imperial city is well worth a visit. It's a bit of a trek for a day visit from Agadir so it is worth paying for an overnight excursion, which will also give you the chance to check out one of the many boutique hotels available.
Essaouira - Located about 100km north of Agadir, Essaouira is full of culture, with the Medina being a UNESCO World Heritage Listed city. The city is also very popular with music lovers as it is famous for its annual Festival of World Music which takes place each June.
Surfing - Morocco boasts hundreds of kilometres of Atlantic Ocean coastline and for 50km either side of Agadir, you will find a wide range of breaks and reefs to suit all levels of surfers.
Golf - There are at least three quality golf courses in and around Agadir with great offers available for serious golfers. Seven-day passes with unlimited golf can be acquired for around €200. Marrakech is home to a couple of quality courses if you want to travel further afield.
Sahara Desert/Atlas Mountains Excursions - Most hotels offer daily excursions into these regions, whether by motorbike, jeep or camel.
Getting There
Ed Leahy travelled to Morocco with Sunway. Sunway offers holidays to Agadir from Dublin every Saturday. Seven nights in Agadir in February/March will cost from €334. Prices include flights, taxes, charges, 7-nights' hotel accommodation and airport transfers. For more information on Agadir Holidays, go to: www.sunway.ie.
Ed Leahy
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