skip to main content

Ocho Rios

Respect!
Respect!

Once the clock goes back and November kicks in, a sunshine holiday is rarely guaranteed within four hours of Dublin, so adding a few more was not a problem as I set off for some winter sun - it was the Caribbean after all.

Arriving late, the dark streets of Ocho Rios appeared a bit menacing on first impression. But after a transatlantic flight and a two-hour cross-country joyride from the airport, it was no wonder my senses were playing up on me.

The morning sunshine lifted all the previous night's anxiety.

I needn't have worried. Up early and out to the balcony where the tranquil Caribbean waters stretched out for miles all around. This was more like it. Yah man, as they say in these parts.

After breakfast I resisted the urge of the ocean and decided to take a stroll about town to get my bearings.

The locals will make you more than welcomeThe town's main street seemed unexpectedly quiet, but sticking out like sore a thumb with my pasty complexion, it wasn't long before I was approached and asked whether I needed anything that might help me relax. The sunshine was sufficient, I assured the travelling salesman; the Caribbean Sea was calling.

The beach at Ocho Rios bends half-moon like around a beautiful, turquoise sea inlet. However, the skyline was blighted by a cruise ship the size of a small mountain, which was docked at the near-by harbour.

I swam in the other direction to the next inlet and had the place to myself with only a fisherman for company - and I think he was asleep. After a few hours in the sun, the jet lag was gone and holiday mode had certainly taken over.

Jamaica is world renowned as being the home of reggae music, the purveyor of Red Stripe beer and a top holiday resort, boasting some of the most beautiful beaches throughout this tropical paradise.

And while the island's climate may be a lot different to that of Ireland, there are a lot of similarities between the two countries.

Both nations used to be ruled by the English, tourism is a major source of economic revenue and Jamaica and Ireland have a strong history of mass emigration.

In fact, there is a very strong Irish influence in Jamaica as many Irish travelled to the Caribbean to work on the sugar plantations and set up home in places like Irish Town, Sligoville or Connaught.

Murphy is still a common surname in Jamaica and there is also a great love for the drink of stout, with Guinness widely available.

You only have to talk to a Jamaican to sense that there is a strong link to the Irish accent as they don't really care to pronounce their th's properly, and Gaelic words are commonly spoken as part of the local dialect with geansaí widely used as a name for a jumper.

And many famous Jamaicans have Irish ancestry, including former Prime Minister Alex Bustamante, who used to describe himself as 50% Irish.

The choice of hotels in Ocho Rios ranges from the US$20 a night basic room to the US$500 a night five-star luxury resort.

Sunset Jamaica GrandeI stayed at the Sunset Jamaica Grande, a reasonably priced four-star hotel in the centre of the town.

The hotel is an all-inclusive beast of a place sitting pretty - well apart from the choice of paint colour, canary yellow - on the seafront adjacent to the harbour.

While there are a lot of nicer hotels in the area and further up the coast, the Sunset has several pools, a gym, tennis courts, games rooms and numerous bars and restaurants.

And as it is an all-inclusive resort, guests don't have to pay a penny for as much food and drink as they can handle.

This is the type of hotel facility that could be considered a challenge and many guests were more than willing to partake as they could be found propping up the bar shortly after the breakfast service was completed.

And while a large proportion of tourists were just there for the winter sun (and the free food and drink evidently), there is plenty to keep the more curious types busy in Ocho Rios and the surrounding region.

Dunn's River FallsThe main street is a bustling little town with a wide range of shops, bars, restaurants and nightclubs. And some of the sights within reach of 'Ochee' as the locals call it, include the Dunn's River Falls, Nine Mile, which is where Bob Marley grew up, and the beaches of Port Antonio, some of which were used to shoot the film 'The Blue Lagoon'.

The secure environs of the all-inclusive hotel are all well and good for creature comforts but they are designed in a way that dissuades the guests from getting out and seeing the town.

And while the town centre does appear a bit intense on your first stroll up the main street, once you get out and about you'll find that the locals are full of chat and they will make you more than welcome.

Now several nights at the hotel buffet combined with the in-house entertainment can bring on a severe dose of cabin fever, so I ventured out of the hotel and down the road to Margaritaville, which is owned by the famous, or should I say, sort-of well-known singer Jimmy Buffett.

The fajitas were top class and a few Red Stripes were enjoyed at the bar. It wasn't too busy but the 90s soundtrack was compensating for the absence of atmosphere.

Then, in a matter of minutes, the place suddenly filled up with a never-ending stream of US college kids. The music got louder and the party games started. A few years ago, I would have been first in line for the funnel of beer, but now I just sit back and laugh.

As they say in Jamaica, Respect!

Places to Visit

Kingston
Bob Marley museumAside from the cricket, one of the top attractions is the Bob Marley museum, which is located in the legend's recording studio, where many of his top hits were recorded. The Royal Botanic Gardens are also worth a visit, and it is well worth your while to get a tour of some of Kingston's old churches and buildings, many of which date back to the 17th century. Pubic transport can be a bit of an ordeal so a lot of time can be saved by getting the number of a reliable taxi driver - but be prepared for some in-depth conversations about cricket. These guys are passionate about the sport and have a great knowledge of the game. As with any big city, it helps to talk to the locals in order to be pointed in the right direction for the best nightlife. Red Bones Jazz & Blues café in the city and Strawberry Hills up in the Blue Mountains are two of the best restaurants around.

Sabina Park
The main attraction in Kingston is the famous Sabina Park stadium, which has hosted top-class Test cricket since the 1930s and was the venue that West Indies legend Garfield Sobers hit an unbeaten 365 - a world record for over 35 years. The stadium was recently renovated which increased the capacity to 21,000. Ireland defeated Pakistan in the World Cup on St Patrick's Day in 2007, which is still considered to be one of the greatest shocks in cricketing history.

Dunn's River Falls
Dunn's River Falls is one of Jamaica's national treasures. Known as the 'land of rivers and springs', it is truly one of the most beautiful spots on the island. The waterfall actually falls into the sea, which is not too common and climbing up the waterfall is very popular with tourists - tour guides are recommended when attempting to climb.

Bob Marley Mausoleum - Nine Mile
Nine Mile is the birthplace and final resting place of the legendary reggae musician, Bob Marley. Visit the humble beginnings of Jamaica's most famous son in the hills of St Ann and you may even meet some of his old friends on your visit.

Port Antonio - The Blue Lagoon
Port AntonioEnjoy rum punch on the shaded veranda or watch the colours of the lagoon change with the movement of the sun. The Blue Lagoon is over 178ft deep and is Port Antonio's most famous attraction. Parts of 'The Blue Lagoon' movie were also shot here.

James Bond Beach
Located just 20 minutes from Ocho Rios, James Bond Beach is bordered by the mountains of St Mary and is surrounded by water on three sides. James Bond author Ian Fleming lived close by.

Dolphin Cove
Located close to Dunn's River Falls, Dolphin Cove is the place to swim with a family of bottlenose dolphins, while the more adventurous can get a foot push or a dorsal pull around the natural cove.

For more information about Ocho Rios and Jamaica, vist: www.visitjamaica.com.

Ed Leahy

RTÉ is not responsible for the content of external websites.

Read Next