Strasbourg wasn't top of my list of city breaks to visit, especially with winter approaching, but three words soon changed that. In no particular order, WORLD BEER FESTIVAL.
I was literally licking my lips as I landed at Karlsruhe-Baden airport and made the short trip across the Rhine and into the French town with the German name.
After checking into the modest but very central ETC Hotel, I took a ramble around the town centre, which is dominated by the imposing but magnificent cathedral.
Strasbourg is the capital city of the Alsace region of France and is over 2,000 years old as well as being the seventh biggest city in France. The city has been violently disputed over the years between Germany and France and the German influence is still very evident in Strasbourg and around the Alsace region.
The town centre is mainly pedestrianised, which definitely adds to the otherworldliness that exists, where wooden-beamed buildings bind the picturesque streets into a breathtaking city.
But first things first, the World Beer Festival, or the Mondial de la Biere, was waiting up the road at the Parc Des Expositions.
I could have walked in twenty minutes but a LUAS-style tram rolled up and deposited me outside the festival a couple of minutes later.
Now I must admit, the week prior was spent fantasising about this magical land of beer and music and lederhosen and giant beer steins and rows upon rows of tables and benches full of merry beer drinkers swaying from side to side singing along to whatever traditional ditty was emanating from the stage area.
There may even have been buxom beer maids waltzing around ready to replace any glass that even hinted at being empty.
You've guessed it. Nothing like it. Not even close. It was a festival of beer for sure, but of the exhibition variety and not the Oktoberfest type.
The Mondial de la Biere has been an annual fixture in Montreal for the past 15 years and this was the first year that the road-show came to Europe. Strasbourg was chosen due to its proximity to Germany and Belgium and it being the beer capital of France.
A huge indoor hall, rows of kiosks, a half-pint glass and a book of tokens. Welcome to the Mondiale de le Biere. Now don't get me wrong. It was a very pleasant way to pass an hour or two, wandering around the many local and international stalls sampling some exquisite beers from all corners of Alsace and the world.
A chilled Weiss beer from the local Meteor brewery got me started; followed by a tasty amber beer from northern France called La Bete, then a stout-like concoction from Brasserie Licorne that was served from a wooden barrel by a girl in traditional Alsatian garb. Licorne Black, if memory serves and very tasty as well it must be said.
Another that stood out was a beer called Rogue, a chocolate stout from the USA and very deserving of the medal it earned as best chocolate stout, or whatever category it won in. The chocolate aftertaste was unexpected but lingered long and lovely as my parting glass sent me back down the tramline into the Strasbourg night. 
Back in the city a lot earlier than expected and definitely more sober than anticipated, it was time to sample some of Strasbourg's more permanent attractions, starting with gastronomy.
Le Clou is a traditional restaurant in the old town, not far from the cathedral, everything is close to the cathedral, to be fair.
The menu was full of Alsatian specialities including choucroute, meat galettes and local bratwurst sausages, but with about twelve different varieties of beer sloshing around my stomach, the safe option was procured - filet steak with pepper sauce.
A curious diner in the vicinity opted for the 'half of a calf's head' option and as the two dishes approached, I was both happy and relieved with my decision to play it safe.
The calf's head looked like someone had taken a mallet to it with random pieces of what must have been boiled skull or marrow or something scattered about the plate. There even appeared to be miniature hairs growing in parts; my first introduction to local nosh, thankfully as an observer only.
I did make sure to keep the beverage local and the Pinot Noir d'Alsace went down very well with my not so traditional peppered steak.
If there wasn't much life back at the exhibition hall, the city centre had a great buzz about the place with the heavy German influence ensuring that a healthy pub culture was in place.
The Dubliner's Pub and the Irish Times Bar were two of the most central and it would have been rude not to pop in for a look before moving on to the lively Bar Exils. The early hours were spent at the small but trendy 'Le Seven' nightclub.
Not quite the night of 'leather and lager' I was expecting down at the 'festival' but at least the city's pubs and restaurants are a fixture in Strasbourg unlike the exhibition, which was on the first plane out of town after the weekend.
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What better way to clear the head than a boat trip around the icy waters of the Ile de Strasbourg. It was mid-October but already the winter chill was very much in effect. A five-minute stroll from the hotel, stopping off at the farmers market to marvel at the fat geese, and down to the harbour for the hour-long cruise around the canals and inlets of the town.
The tour includes a synchronised audio guide and while I'm not normally a big fan of these type of excursions or the open-top double-decker equivalent, this was a great introduction to the town, it's buildings, bridges and fascinating history, which includes the Napoleonic wars, Gutenberg and his printing press, the Marseillaise, the French Disease and a tale about the Irish monks and their Munster cheese. There's also a chance to experience, first hand, the workings of a canal gate in action. 
At one stage, however, the guide sounded like he could have been in Belfast with constant talk about Protestants and Catholics. And this theme continued with the obligatory visit to the Notre Dame Cathedral. It was politely pointed out that locals just call it the Cathedral so as not to offend the Protestants. It sounded like a yarn from a Father Ted episode but I thought it best not to delve too much into it.
Anyway, the Cathedral dates back to 1015 and took four centuries to complete. It was the world's tallest building until 1874 and is 'a prodigy of the gigantic and of the delicate' as Victor Hugo described it.
A giant working organ covers one of the internal walls and the astronomical clock is another major attraction.
The clock contains some unique calculator that shows yearly religious feast dates, leap years and equinoxes, and contains lots of animated moving pieces to coincide with the hourly chimes. The best of which occurs at 12.30pm when the twelve apostles pass before Christ, who blesses them, while a cock crows three times - it kind of puts the Swiss cuckoo clock in its place.
Sticking with the cathedral theme, the best view in town is to be had from the top of the tower, a 329-step spiral stroll to the summit.
The task was completed at a gentle pace but was worth the accompanying dizziness as the Vosges Mountains came into view on one side, with the Black Forest way off in the distance on the other.
The city below looked beautiful from such a height and it is no wonder that it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site, for the gothic cathedral, the exceptional urban landscape, characteristic of middle Europe and the Rhenish domestic architecture - the only city centre to be awarded such an accolade.
Descending the steps was almost as arduous but I had promised myself a Croque Monsieur at the open-air café below as an incentive. And it was duly devoured as I appreciated the amazing exterior of the Cathedral.
The bicycle tour of the city was next on the list, but it had to wait a while, as the jelly legs would need a bit more than the toasted sandwich to coerce them into any more exercise for the remainder of the afternoon.
Things to do in Strasbourg
1. The Bateau Mouche. Buy a three-day Strasbourg pass, which is great value and includes the hour-long boat tour. The tour guide is full of information about the city and its history. It will set you up for the rest of your tour and point you in the direction of whatever tickles your fancy, whether it is local architecture or perhaps a visit to the European parliament.
2. The Cathedral. Even if you don't visit, the cathedral will be omnipresent during your trip as you'll pass it several times every day wandering about the old town. But do go in and marvel at the majestic building and try to get up the tower to experience the view. It is definitely worth the traipse up the 300 steps.
3. Rent a Bicycle. With the city being predominately pedestrianised, cycling around is a joy and a great way to get a quick tour of the place. The Strasbourg Pass also includes a free half-day bicycle rental.
4. Palais Rohan. Another magnificent building dating back to 1742 which was the ancient residence of many princes and bishops of Strasbourg, it now houses a decorative arts museum.
5. Le Parc de l'Orangerie. A beautiful green space in the city, complete with lake, waterfall, little boats and lots and lots of storks. The park is a great place for a stroll or somewhere to go to take a break from the busy city streets.
Places to Eat
1. Maison Kammerzell. Not only is the Maison Kammerzell one of the best restaurants in Strasbourg but it is located in one of the most amazing buildings in the city. The restaurant sits on the first floor and serves traditional fare. There are great views from the outside of this unique building, which sits in the shadow of the cathedral. Try the foie gras; it's a bit of a speciality in these parts.
2. Le Clou. Small but very popular with a great atmosphere and plenty of choices to sample the local delicacies. The calf's head is a step too far though. Try the escargots and finish the night off with the giant profiteroles.
3. L'Ancienne Douane. Another popular place serving traditional fare. Very reasonable and the young crowd provide a great atmosphere. The menu is extensive with plenty of choice but if you want to check out the Alsatian classics, you won't go wrong with a tarte flambé or a Choucroute Strasbourgeois, which is a veritable feast of meat and sauerkraut.
Places to Drink
1. The Dubliner's Pub. It wouldn't be a European city without an Irish pub and the Dubliner is renowned for its Full Irish Breakfast on a Sunday morning. There is live music some nights and the pint of porter is pretty decent as well.
2. Bar Exils. A lively joint with a great selection of beers with the option of getting a yard of ale to be shared at the table. Closing time is at four in the morning in these parts - you have been warned!
3. The Irish Times. Another Irish bar in the centre of town and this one actually looks like an Irish pub. Sky Sports and students seemed to dominate but a good atmosphere later in the night.
Nightclubs
1. Le Seven. Small but lively. Seems to attract some decent DJs, which should please the dance crowd - again no sign of closing well into the early hours.
2. Retro Club. A much bigger club attracting all ages with big queues to get in after midnight. Be warned though, the admission is pricey and the drinks even more so. Seats appear to be reserved for those that shell out for the full bottle of vodka or whiskey at over €100 a pop. They are served with some sparkler fireworks though. The beer, in comparison, is a mere €8 a bottle. Ouch.
Ed Leahy
