On a boat 20km off the cost of Cancun the taste of disappointment had left a lump in my throat and I began to wonder if the guarantee that I had been given about swimming with whale sharks was all a lie.
Whale sharks are true sharks and get their name from their enormous size - they are the biggest fish and can grow up to 14 metres in length. Typically they grow between seven to 10 metres long and most of them live well into their 70s. After flying thousands of kilometres to Mexico to swim with these gentle giants, my heart sank as our search for them entered its second hour.
Eventually the mood was lightened when we heard a roar from the captain: "Whale shark!" The boat pulled up alongside these awe-inspiring creatures and we peered overboard at two juvenile spotted coats. Unlike its relative the great white, whale sharks are giant filter feeders that swim slowly in circles at the surface of the water, sucking up small fish and plankton.
We were instructed that in compliance with Mexican regulations only two swimmers and a licensed guide were allowed in the water at any one time with the sharks. You must not swim towards the shark but let it come to you and swim alongside it, never touching it.
The instructor reassured us that it was perfectly safe to swim in the water with whale sharks but many people were still, understandably, nervous about swimming with a fish of this size. I waited on the boat for my turn and was a little worried that they might disappear before it was my time. Luckily in five minutes the pod that we had found had grown in number to 20. I had hit gold!
With my snorkel and goggles on I jumped in the water and within a few seconds I saw a whale shark coming towards me. It was amazing to see its large, flat head and two small eyes look at me. Its metre-long mouth opened and closed in search of food. On seeing me the shark slowly turned in my direction and the instructor signalled for us to swim alongside it.
The shark's gigantic tail seemed to effortlessly move it forward. Whale sharks are not the most efficient swimmers and move at an average speed of 5km per hour, so without too much effort I could keep up with while it swam away ignoring me. At a metre away I got a good look at its grey back with a checkerboard of pale yellow spots and strips. I watched its large gills move in and out and small pilot fish swim under its belly.
Everyone on the boat had at lest three swims with the sharks and each one was as good as the last. I soon realised that when I swam with them they weren't ignoring us but were curious. When the whale shark had decided it had enough it accelerated and left me behind. These beautiful creatures seemed welcoming, allowing us to share their environment.
Whale sharks populate the tropical zone around the globe but off the coast of Cancun, Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox is the only place where such large populations gather. They typically gather in pods of 10 or 20, but researchers estimate pods in this region that have about 100 to 200 in them. They grace these waters from mid May to mid September every year.
Satisfied with our encounters we headed home. Our hosts surprised us with a delicious lunch on board the boat. Ceviche, a traditional Mexican dish with fresh fish marinated in lime and onions and chillis, was an ideal meal. That was followed by a quick snorkel on the reef by Isla Mujeres.
These waters are part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef which is the second largest reef system in the world after Australia's Great Barrier Reef. The reef stretches 1,000km along the cost of Mexico, Belize, Honduras and Guatemala and is home to 500 species of fish and 60 species of coral. Sea turtles, sharks, manatees, dolphins and manta rays live in these waters, which make diving and snorkelling here the stuff of dreams.
The dream like experience continued in our residence. We stayed in Ceilba Del Mar; at the top end of the scale, it offers luxury, quality and romance to honeymooners and people with money. The property is perfectly located on a stretch of secluded powdered sand beach in Puerto Morelos, a pretty little fishing village in-between Cancun and Playa del Carmen. The setting, service and accommodation provided could not have been nicer.
Tranquillity and space are the order of the day and there are many ways to wile away the hours doing absolutely nothing. If you're feeling a little more active you could take one of their evening yoga classes on the beach, explore the surrounding ocean on the hotels kayaks or spend the day in the Zen like spa. It's such a relaxing place to be that one day feels like a week. Sipping a cocktail at the swim up bar is an apt way to end a perfect day sharing the ocean with creatures as awesome and gentle as the whale sharks.
Deirdre Mullins
For more information on Cancun, visit: www.cancun.travel.
To find out about swimming with whale sharks, contact Ecocolors on: +57 (998) 884 3667 or visit: www.ecotravelmexico.com.
Deirdre Mullins stayed in the Ceiba del Mar Beach & Spa Resort. Telephone: 52 (998) 872-8063 or visit: www.ceibadelmar.com/english/.
