There was always a strange curiosity within me for the Basque Country, and the city of Bilbao in particular. The politics, the language, the culture and, of course, the football team all intrigued me and if that wasn't enough to attract me to this part of the world, well, the weather was always going to seal the deal.
My interest in the Basques goes way back to my childhood, watching the Tour de France on the television. As soon as the race hit the Pyrenees, the narrow winding roads up the mountains would be swarmed by over-enthusiastic spectators waving funny-looking red and green flags in the faces of the riders and into the lenses of the passing TV cameras.
I remember people saying that the Basques were like the Irish and they wanted independence. But who was I to be asking questions about politics or history? I was only a young fella and, to be honest, I think I just liked the look of the flag.
So, years later, I find myself walking the streets of Bilbao, knowing a lot more about the politics - but this isn't the time or the place - and enjoying the sunshine as I made my way down to the number one attraction in this post-industrial town at the foot of the mountains.
"Build it and they will come" was a line from the baseball film, 'Field of Dreams', and the same concept was used for the city of Bilbao when architect Frank Gehry was commissioned to design the Guggenheim Museum, which opened on the banks of the Nervíon river in 1997.
Now while they do not agree about a lot of things in this part of the world, there can be no disputing that the Guggenheim is an absolute triumph of architecture, art and aesthetics.
Without even setting foot inside, you will be mesmerised by the beauty of this titanium, glass and limestone wonder. Whether up close or viewed from a distance, the building is equally impressive and you could easily while the day away in the surrounding concourse without having to part with your €13 entrance fee.
The inside, as it happens, is well worth the price of admission, with a great mix of temporary and permanent exhibitions.
I was particularly intrigued by a range of wooden sculptures, 'The Matter of Time' by Richard Serra, before being freaked out - in a good way - by the surrealist tribute exhibition upstairs. I finished the visit among Juan Munoz's 'A Retrospective', which included a room full of miniature oriental men scattered about the place and a disturbing sculpture of a man hanging by his tongue.
So, with my culture quota well and truly used up at this stage, it was time to hit the streets and experience some of the famed nightlife.
Sure enough, I ended up in an Irish bar. Well it was an Irish bar by name alone as there were only a couple of pasty faces in the place and they were residing at my table.
The local clientele - and there were many - were intrigued by the out-of-towners who were matching them in the drinking stakes. Yes, they like a drink in Bilbao.
And once it was established and confirmed that we were Irish, we were suddenly the toast of the place and were clinking glasses and discussing the merits of whiskey with our new best buddies.
In fact, we were escorted over to the other side of the busy tavern and introduced to fathers, grandfathers and the bride and groom. Yes, we had successfully gate-crashed a Basque wedding.
It took a while, but we eventually escaped the clutches of our new-found friends as the Basque ballads were starting up. After all, we had to sample the nightlife and like all great cities in this neck of the woods, things only start to liven up after midnight.
The Indautxu area was swarming with revellers and the many pintxos (tapas) bars provide a bit of welcome sustenance amid all the madness. I couldn't say for certain that the city never sleeps, but if it does, it's not for long.
I, on the other hand, am very fond of my forty winks and it was a bit of a struggle to make it up for breakfast the next morning. I suppose it did make it a lot easier knowing that food was being served on the roof-top restaurant, overlooking the Guggenheim and the city below.
As city breaks go, Bilbao is as good as it gets.
Six Things to Do
1) Visit the Guggenheim Museum. Even if you couldn't care less about all that arty stuff, get down to the riverside and marvel at this work of art. And if that doesn't do it for you, there are lots of water fountains and a kids' playground on the concourse to keep you amused. Look out for the giant Jeff Koons-designed flower puppy that sits in front of the museum. www.guggenheim-bilbao.es/?idioma=en
2) Stay at the Gran Hotel Domine. Not only do they serve breakfast on the roof across from the Guggenheim, but the bedrooms are just as impressive. The bathrooms are designed to give you a clear view of the museum while you unwind in the tub.
3) 
Get down to the San Mamés Stadim to watch in action. Bilbao somehow manage to stay in the top tier of Spanish football using only Basque players. A real home-grown team if ever there was one. And the supporters are just a little bit passionate as well.
4) Get out of the city and visit any number of places of interest in the Basque region. The city of San Sebastián is only up the road, while if you're feeling brave, you could pop down to Pamplona for the annual bull run.
5) Go to watch a Pelota match. Like the Irish, the Basque people have their own indigenous sports. They play a game not too dissimilar to handball in a long alley, where instead of using their hands, they employ hook-shaped racquets to sling the ball a long distance at a tremendous pace.
6) Walk the old town (Casco Viejo). The medieval streets and plazas are full of interesting restaurants, shops, taverns and monuments. Plaza Nueva is in the heart of the old town and is a great place to dine outside as it is filled with restaurants and tapas bars.
Where to Stay
There is a great selection of hotels in Bilbao. Below is a range of accommodation available on Hotels.com.
Hesperia Zubialde (****)
Prices start from €62
Housed in a 20th century schoolhouse, Hesperia Zubialde hotel enjoys a riverside location. The hotel sits across from San Mames soccer stadium.
Hotel Miro (****)
Prices start from €105
The Miro Hotel is a striking green aluminium and stone fronted design hotel located in the centre of Bilbao, 150 meters from the Guggenheim Museum. The guestrooms feature light contemporary décor with sleek, modern furnishing, dark carpet and spot lighting.
Silken Gran Hotel Domine (****)
Prices start from €106
The contemporary Silken Gran Hotel Domine is located in central Bilbao, opposite the Guggenheim Museum. The Museum of Fine Arts, Old Town, Santiago Cathedral and Plaza Nueva square are within one kilometre. Buffet breakfast is served on the glass-roofed Buenavistas Terrace with outdoor seats and Guggenheim views from the hotel's top floor. Minimalist décor, and international and Basque dishes are on the menu at Beltz the Black restaurant.
Want to Know More?
The Basque Country has a fantastic culture with a unique language that cannot be traced back to any other part of the world. Famed Spanish filmmaker Julio Medem directed a wonderful film, 'The Basque Ball', which is a great introduction to the region and its history. 'The Basque Ball' is available to purchase on DVD. Read a review of 'The Basque Ball'.
Getting There
Bilbao is only a two-hour flight from Dublin and Aer Lingus flies directly to Bilbao Airport, while Ryanair fly into neighbouring Santander, which is only an hour away by coach.
Ed Leahy
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