The Algarve has been an Irish favourite for decades. Tourism has branched out from its entry resorts, although Praia da Rocha still ranks as one of the favourites for Irish holidaymakers.
Looking for more of that high cliff coastline, our sights have moved west, conquering the fishing villages and lobster havens, one by one, to the most westerly point on the mainland, Cape St Vincent.
There are some places where excess has been avoided.
The narrow streets of the old village of Alvor, a fishing village generally less commercialised than many other resorts in the region, are lined with traditional fishermen's cottages alongside a multitude of bars and restaurants.
Better still, if you hire and drive to the cape you can find huge deserted beaches without a high-rise in sight, Cordoama, Beliche and the spectacular Amado Costa De St Vincent. And resort excursions can take you inland to the Monchique Mountains, Silves castle and 12th-century cathedral plus high mountain pass
But the original of the species is still Praia da Rocha.
Around the town of Lagos you get a feel for history, the golden age before the 1755 earthquake when Portugal was centre of an empire. Lagos was the former centre of the slave trade, where Henry the Navigator's mariners set sail for west Africa on their voyages of discovery.
The main sight is a 17th-century fort (now a museum), offering superb views of the town's natural harbour. The pedestrianised town centre is well provided with shops and restaurants and there are boat trips to nearby grottos and beaches.
Rows of yachts, not slave ships, now fill Lagos harbour, behind the palm-lined seafront. And just when you expect it least, you meet a Kerryman at the helm.
Derry Jones came to the Algarve because of the sun. His company, South West Charters, has put a huge investment into the largest speedboats on the continent and will bring you chasing dolphins for €30.
He attributes the charm of the Algarve to the collision of culture you still find in the personality of the landscape, and the personality of the people. Moors, Spaniards, passing fishermen, and even Kerrymen have stopped by. You find the evidence in the music, the sad Fado songs that are not unlike sean-nós, and the food.
Watersports are one of the main attractions around here.
Swimming, snorkelling, water-skiing, sailing and windsurfing are all widely available.
For information on diving, contact the Portuguese Federation for Underwater Activities. www.spas.pt
And the Algarve is also home to numerous world-class golf courses.
Farmers tired of scratching a living out of sheep and olives have sold out to multi-million euro golf courses and half a dozen new ones are opening each year. The suite of courses around Villamoura are famous but here too you notice a westward lunge.
Álamo golf course has opened a new 18 hole course to augment its existing 18 holes. It is beautifully located and blended in nicely with the local environment, hilly, with narrow tight fairways that make it difficult to negotiate, with enough carry on some of the holes to demand straight driving. More for the accurate golfer than the long hitter.
Balmeras Golf Club is very beautifully situated overlooking the Atlantic (the first hole is a spectacular par four with spectacular sea views) with very mature fairways and almost links like conditions, particularly for the first nine. It is long off the back stakes and offers up quite a challenge.
Everywhere there is a resort, there are a dozen golf courses feeding off it.
The Balaia golf village in Albufeira has an expansive course and great catering. The purpose built resort of Villamoura, a farm turned billion-dollar complex, has six of the best courses on the mainland, and an amazing set of Roman remains which have been excavated by teams from Portugal and NUI Galway.
They won't be doing archaeological digs in Praia da Rocha, but on a clear day, the cliff-top is the best place to be.
Things to do
* Portuguese Trade and Tourism Board, 54 Dawson Street, Dublin 2. www.visitportugal.com
* The Algarve is served by all the major Irish tour operators with resorts and prices ranging from entry level self-catering to five star spa hotels. Check your travel agent or tour operator website.
* Faro Airport is the major charter gateway into the Algarve. In high season there are 35 chartered fights from Ireland from all the main tour operators including Budget Falcon, Panorama, Sunworld and 28 scheduled flights, including Aer Lingus and Ryanair from Dublin and Flybe from Belfast.
* HotelPestana Alvor Praia is a five star resort with an enormous outdoor pool and great sea views. The beach has its own unique characteristic, small beer huts on the sand which bring a poolside bar experience to the edge of the ocean. www.pestana.com
* South West Charters, run by Tralee-born Derry Jones, organises dolphin watching, sightseeing trips and yacht trips from the Marina of Lagos, stopping briefly at key points of interest along the coast. Prices €30 for a great trip. www.southwestcharters.com
* The Algarve Casino in Praia is an upmarket offering with good beach-front location and wide range of facilities, but rather staid decor.
Avoid the show, an endless series of lip-synchs and costume changes, but visit the small blackjack room to see some uniquely Portuguese gambling games, not found outside the country.
