First Impression
You really know you are in the wilds when you haven't passed any houses, cars or artificial light of any description in hours. And when you have no signal on your phone and you're using it as a torch to light up the road map on your lap.
I was lost in Connemara on my way to Delphi Mountain Resort. A four-hour journey from Dublin became six when I missed the turn at Maam's Cross. Needless to say, by the time I reached my destination I was a little irritated.
Delphi is owned and managed by husband and wife team Rory and Aileen Concannon. The exterior of the lodge is made from stone and wood and fits well into the surrounding rugged landscape of mountains and coastline. A turf fire welcomed us to the reception, as did the friendly staff. I was starting to feel better already.
Rooms
The ground floor suite is spacious and comfortable, with two separate sleeping and lounging areas. Simple decor with muted tones and the wooden furniture keeps with the lodge's earthy feel. The lounge area is perfect for curling up on the couch with a good book and if you have forgotten your own reading material there is plenty in the room to keep you occupied. The bed was huge and extremely comfortable.
If you don't want to spend €50 on a seaweed bath in the spa, buy a pack of seaweed at reception for €10 and create your own in the large kidney shaped bath en suite. If you're someone who likes to relax and watch TV all day, forget it. None of the rooms has televisions and to make matter worse or better, there is no phone coverage at all in the lodge. After I got over the initial anxiety caused by the fasting from technology, I found its absence helpful in unwinding.
The suite's one major flaw is the view from the sliding doors in both the bedroom and lounge is of a bush. Unfortunately, the nearby mountain vista is blocked by the patio roof. The first floor rooms don't have this problem.
Food
One place that doesn't have a problem with the views is the restaurant. A good breakfast while looking out on to the Mweelrea Mountains is a perfect way to start any day.
The breakfast is tasty and a fry and healthy options are offered in the buffet. The homemade granola and brown bread are equally delicious. The restaurant does a well-priced (€12) buffet lunch, but dinner is not so reasonably priced at €39 for two courses and €49 for three courses. The restaurant makes an effort to use locally produced produce like Killary Fjord mussels and Louisburgh beef. I ate pan-seared scallops served with lemon mash, Parma ham and pesto, which was delicious.
Out and About
Delphi is the perfect place to explore the great outdoors. Mountain climbing, surfing on Cross Beach and sea kayaking across Killary Fjord are all on offer.
I stayed on-site and braved the high ropes and manoeuvred my way up and down the outdoor climbing wall. The high ropes require you to walk across a shaky bridge and wriggle your way through tunnels, all at six and seven metres above the ground.
If you want to go further afield you are spoilt for choice; Croagh Patrick, Westport, Connemara National Park and Kylemore Abbey are all a short drive away.
Pamper Factor
The spa's relaxation area and its hydro pool have one of the best views in Ireland and I blissfully enjoyed the skyline with the sensation of the water jets on my back.
Fifty euro will get you a seaweed bath which lasts for about an hour and leaves your skin soft for nearly a week. There is no pool but do put aside a couple of hours to ramble between the thermal suites, munch on fruit and sip on herbal teas.
Who Goes There?
Delphi is good for nature lovers, activity enthusiasts and people who want to get away from a busy life. The atmosphere is very relaxed and there is no pressure to dress up. It's not a place for people who want room service, mini bars and technology.
Highlight
It's nice to visit a resort where you feel the members of management have a bit of love for what they do. The staff are helpful without being intrusive and there are plenty of reminders of the environmental ethos of the lodge. Only pure mountain spring water is used, and the staff told me the shower and bathroom tap water is drinkable. Mother nature's intervention leaving guests phoneless fits perfectly with the retreat-like atmosphere.
Lowlights
The obscured view in the ground floor room was a disappointment, as was the same CD playing on repeat. There is only so much Duffy one can take.
Cost and Contact
A weekend spa package at Delphi Mountain Resort costs €255 per person sharing. This includes two nights' accommodation, a seaweed bath and a choice of facial or full body massage followed by use of the thermal suite and relaxation areas.
A suite for two nights' bed and breakfast and one evening meal costs €199 per person sharing.
A half day of activities on the climbing wall and high ropes costs €45 per person.
For more information, contact Delphi Mountain Resort on: +353 95 42208, email: info@delphiescape.com or visit: www.delphimountainresort.com.
Deirdre Mullins
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