The general Irish attitude towards seafood is pretty…mid, unfortunately. For a tiny island like ours with such a wealth of native fish, an abundance of restaurants that prepare it to world-class standards and an entire ocean flanking its circumference, it upsets me when I see Irish people pull a face at the mention of seafood, telling me they don't eat it.
But despite these attitudes, people still sell and serve it in trawler loads. Inner city Dublin used to be bustling with fish markets, bringing more unusual cuts like ray to families who couldn’t afford cod. And sure, Molly Malone herself was known for slinging her cockles and mussels through the city – although whether that’s a euphemism for something else, I’m not entirely sure.
Of course, there was the outmoded tradition of no meat on Good Friday every Easter. This spawned from the Christian belief that because Jesus sacrificed his flesh on that first Good Friday (allegedly), to consume the flesh of another animal would be sacrilege.
Oh, but fish don’t count, sure – that’s considered vegetarian to the John Paul II generations.
And while we’ve moved away from many traditional religious practices in society, I personally like to follow the "fish on Good Friday" rule. It’s a perfect excuse to celebrate and indulge in some of the finest fishy fare Ireland has to offer. Here are some great spots to visit.
The Seafood Café, Temple Bar
Niall Sabongi and crew have a long-established gem on their hands. A place that serves it all and that spears nothing but jealousy into my heart when I hear other people have a reservation. Whether it’s seafood pasta, oysters or a full lobster you’re hankering for (plus a helping of good craic), this is the spot. I genuinely believe it’s a culinary fave for the girlies and LGBTQ+ community, too. You’ll also always be guaranteed great wines* and their Bloody Marys are to die for.
Sea Shanty, Blackrock
Sea Shanty is one of those places that has me baffled in that I can't believe it's not talked about more. I remember visiting Sebastian Sainz and Elena Segura’s labour of love when it first opened in 2023. I was gobsmacked by their hospitality and the innovation of their food. There’s such flair here and playfulness in their menu - the likes of which I’ve not seen anywhere else on this island.
Expect a masterclass in Irish oysters, flavours that’ll knock you for six, and wines reaching from as far as Georgia and Slovenia. They’re now situated upstairs (and indoors) in Conway’s pub in Blackrock which, coincidentally enough, used to be owned by my grandad.
King Sitric, Howth Pier
A visit to Howth is wasted without a walk/swim followed by a good bit of grub and a creamy pint – and surely it’s not just me who thinks that. Dublin’s answer to the city of Cannes hosts, naturally, a plethora of seafood-slingin’ businesses. But the standout for me can be found up by the pier.
King Sitric offers the kind of hospitality that is so globally-lauded about Ireland and serves up perfect seafood caught fresh daily just offshore – a thing a lot of places claim to do, but don’t actually. Their garlic butter crab claws and homemade brown bread are the ideal way to punctuate a walk up Howth hill, accompanied by a velvety pint of Guinness.
Good World Chinese, George’s Street
Good World Chinese is like a part of the furniture, that’s how long it’s stood there on George’s Street. But I never actually managed to venture in until shamefully recently where I was met with a great meal surrounded by close friends, all with mouths full, passing around the large array of dishes we’d ordered.
The menu is dauntingly-long but I settled on the sizzling plate of ginger and scallion scallops, which were so succulent and zingy that I almost forgot about the roast duck sitting in front of me. It’s that good. A great spot to lure your fish-hating friends, tricking them into ordering their char siu pork or wontons, then convincing them to have a bite of your plump prawns, scallops and more.
Fish Shop, Benburb Street
Jumoke Akintola and Peter Hogan must have literally seen a lightbulb flash above their heads when they came up with the idea for Smithfield’s cult fave, Fish Shop. The concept is so simple it’s genius: fish and chips in a classy little joint with a great wine list. It very quickly became a darling of the Dublin 7 area and is always rammed on any given evening. Countertop seating reigns supreme here, which I personally love; and their Fillet O’Fish Shop burger is a knockout.
Big Fan/Sister 7, Aungier Street/Smithfield
Fish doesn't appear heavily on the menu of Big Fan (or her Northside accomplice, Sister7), but hear me out: their 13 spice crayfish jiaozi. That’s it, that’s the pitch. Call me their biggest fan but since the first time I ate them a few years back, I’ve made sure to spread the good word by literally shouting about them at people who so much as mention the restaurant. These prism-shaped parcels are filled with light, sweet and salty crayfish meat, served in a pool of green chilli sauce. And they’re less than a tenner for three, if you’re look for taste without breaking the bank.
Tippenyaki, Rathmines
While it’s far from sushi my parents and grandparents were eating on a Good Friday, it’d be remiss of me to not include a solid sushi spot to this list. We’re now lucky enough to be blessed with a number of sushi restaurants in Dublin. And at Tippenyaki in Rathmines, you’re guaranteed a good buzz with a flameshow from their open grill, as the chefs prepare your food right in front of you.
Their fish is sourced from local fish markets and they’ve got a wide range of sashimi, sushi platters and nigiri as well as more classic teppanyaki dishes like tuna steak, seabass and king prawns.
Bar Pez, Kevin Street
Your favourite food lover and food writer’s favourite wine bar. Owned by the same people as Fish Shop, it’s no surprise that Bar Pez serves some of the most delicious, tapas-style fish dishes. From their iconic crab sandwich to their scallop toast, there’s enough going on here to make you feel like you’re in the North of Spain. And like their older sister Fish Shop, they’ve got a library-esque wine list and a lovely, laid back vibe.
Lena, Portobello
This new kid on the block has been met with rave reviews from Ireland’s top food critics. Having taken the reign from Locks on the canal, Lena had the daunting task of establishing itself in its own right and did it with aplomb. Italian-inspired dishes are the vibe, as well as a beautiful, light dining space and bar which makes it feel airy and romantic. And the food is well-deserving of its hype.
Having been in recently, one of the dishes that blew me away was the wild seabass crudo with blood orange and rosemary. A striking neon dish with a bright burst of flavour to match. If money’s no object, make this your Good Friday treat.
And finally, as I don’t believe the fish on Good Friday buzz should be limited to just Dublin, I’d like to throw out some standouts from across the country for your consideration so that wherever you are, you can eat good too:
- Linnane’s Lobster Bar, Ballyvelaghan, Clare
- Out of the Blue, Dingle, Kerry
- Fisk Seafood Bar, Downings, Donegal
- Little Catch, John Robert Square, Waterford
- Hooked, Rockwood Parade, Sligo
- Oifig an Fish, Clifden, Galway
- Lir Seafood, Colerain, Derry
- Goldie, Cork City
- Snappy Snappy, Dooneen Pier, Galway
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ.
