For his latest adventure Stein is embarking on a gastronomic road trip from Venice to Istanbul through the countries of the former Byzantine Empire – a melting pot of east and west. As always the much-loved chef is documenting his journey in a new book and TV series. His mission to uncover new flavour begins in Venice, where he cooks some of his favourite Venetian dishes including seafood risotto, tiramisu and gnocchi with spider crab.
You're over for a short visit to Ireland, what’s your experience of Irish food?
Irish produce is fantastic – and everyone seems to appreciate what’s on their doorstep, more than they used to. About ten years ago I did a programme called Food Heroes. We covered all of Britain and Ireland and there were lots of great producers around then but no one knew how to sell anything, there was a real lack of marketing. If you’ve got a restaurant or are selling great produce in a rural area, you have to make a big fuss about it and I think that’s what’s happened in last ten or 15 years. I was always taken with Kinsale in County Cork - years ago the town really got together and started selling it as a destination and it worked.
Your new book is beautiful, how did you decide to focus on the Eastern Mediterranean region?
Travel and food just works really well. The India trip was a landmark for our team and so popular. This new one, Venice to Istanbul happened naturally and while we thought it couldn’t match India, it seems to be going down really well. We’re covering parts of the world where people go on holidays and I think they like to hear about places that they’re familiar with.
What are your memories of that trip to India – would you go back?
It was quite difficult in India, because it’s a tough place to travel around. But there’s something very addictive about it, I always want to go back there – as a holiday instead of work. I formed relationships with people along the way that I’d like to meet again.
No matter where you go – do you find that the common bond with people is their love of food and cooking?
I think it’s quite interesting because people have commented about certain locations we shot in and the fact that there was civil unrest there. But my job is to point out that there’s still some comfort and joy in food, it’s not to wade in on a political debate. It’s a real tragedy that you can’t go somewhere like Syria, that possibly has the best Middle Eastern cooking.
What are you like as a travelling companion?
On the whole I’m a good companion, I like travelling, I don’t mind airports or planes, I quite like it – there’s always a sense of excitement.
You’ve always stayed true to your food ethos and keeping your cooking simple – was that important to you?
It wasn’t a conscious decision; it’s just the food that I like. My wife (Sarah) brought me to Monte Carlo recently as a surprise and we stayed in this swanky hotel and she ordered up some langoustines that were very fancy and I turned to her and said ‘which would you prefer, a pile of prawns and mayonnaise or all that stuff there’? – she told me to shut up! To me there’s nothing nicer than a pan-fried sole and some fresh salad, keep it simple. I’m not the world’s greatest sea food chef, I just like fresh fish.
Janice also asked Stein (69) if he has any plans to start winding down?
I don’t think I’ll ever stop working, it’s what I do even though I don’t have to – that’s one of the pleasures of having your own business. But more and more my sons (Jack, Edward and Charles) are taking over and I want it to be a painless transition, I don’t want them to end up thinking that I’m in the way.
