Denim is rarely out of fashion, but how we wear it is constantly changing. This spring, after years of wide-leg jeans, it seems denim is reverting back to the Noughties.
From the return of the mini skirt to the revival of bootcut jeans and low-rise silhouettes, this season's trends are firmly rooted in the early 2000s – but with a more wearable edge.
According to TV stylist and author of Bolder Not Older, Nicky Hambleton-Jones, the key is not to replicate past trends, but to reinterpret them.
So, here’s a stylist’s guide on how to wear the biggest denim trends of the season.
1. Mini denim skirt
It appears that the denim mini skirt is officially back, spotted on countless Paris Fashion Week runways, including Dior’s SS26 show.
"The return of the denim mini skirt is part of fashion’s ongoing Y2K revival, but it’s also about attitude," says Hambleton-Jones.
"It’s tied to that carefree confidence, but it’s being styled in a much more considered way now that’s all about contrast."
Rather than leaning fully into nostalgia, Hambleton-Jones suggests balancing the shorter hemline with more structured, grown-up pieces.
She recommends oversized blazers or structured jackets – akin to the military jackets Jonathan Anderson styled them with in his Dior collection – paired with boots or ballet flats.
Accessories should stay minimal to prevent it from looking too retro.
2. Bootcut jeans
Bootcut or "bootleg" jeans are also making a return, providing a more subtle alternative to the pervasive wide-leg styles.
"Bootcut jeans are easy to wear because they flatter most body shapes," says Hambleton-Jones, noting that the silhouette has a natural elongating effect.
She says that the focus should be on proportion, keeping the top half more fitted or neatly tucked in to define the waist, and opting for a heeled boot or pointed shoe to flatter the silhouette.
Tailored shirts or cropped jackets all work well here, Hambleton-Jones says, helping to balance the slight flare through the leg.
3. Denim on denim
Double denim – dubbed the "Canadian tuxedo" after Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake coordinated at the 2001 American Music Awards – is firmly back, but perhaps less intense than their look.
Rather than matching pieces exactly, this spring is all about mixing silhouettes.
"Balance and variation are key," says Hambleton-Jones. Pairing straight-leg jeans with a lighter denim shirt, or combining structured pieces with more relaxed shapes, helps avoid the look feeling too like a uniform.
Breaking up the outfit with a non-denim piece, such as a statement bag or accessory, can also add a nice contrast, Hambleton-Jones says.
The aim is "cohesion, not coordination".
4. Light-wash denim
Light-wash denim is another trend returning this season, bringing with it the casual, laid-back feel of Nineties and 2000s grunge, especially when combined with the barrel silhouette.
To avoid looking overly undone or too casual, Hambleton-Jones says the easiest way elevate a piece is through contrast.
So if a wash is casual, pair it with a smart finish like "cream, navy, chocolate brown and soft grey [which are] sophisticated," she says.
A plain white T-shirt and slim knitted jumper or tailored military jacket can provide a sense of structure to an otherwise relaxed look.
Metallic accessories – whether silver or gold – can also help lift the outfit, Hambleton-Jones says.
Texture plays a role, too, by pairing light-wash denim with smoother fabrics such as leather or satin helps balance the ruggedness of the denim.
5. Low-rise denim
Low-rise jeans are perhaps the most divisive denim trend to return, but you shouldn’t worry, as the 2026 version is noticeably more wearable.
For those hesitant to try the trend, starting with a mid-low rise rather than an ultra-low cut is key, says Hambleton-Jones.
"Layering can help," she says, suggesting long line base layers and jackets. "A blazer adds coverage while leaning into the trend."
Structured denim with a bit of weight will hold its shape better, making the overall silhouette feel more flattering, she says, so it’s best to look for jeans made from more cotton than any added plastic, such as elastin or polyester.
Wearing the jeans with a heightened shoe, like a chunky trainer or heeled boot, can also lengthen your posture, making the style more flattering, says Hambleton-Jones.
Dipping your toe in by pairing low-rise with your favourite wardrobe basics is an easy way to test if the trend is for you.
