When Irish designer Sybil Connolly chose Dunsany Castle as the backdrop for her first collection in 1953, the objective was to impress visitors to Ireland by showcasing the artistry of Irish design reflected against the brilliance of Irish fashion.
In her words, "Irish fabrics are enough to bring the fashion world to our doorstep, but the world will come all the faster if the fabrics are shown to their best advantage."
It got me thinking about how blending pieces with different backgrounds can highlight each part of our wardrobes, giving them a new life as well as a sense of historical context. Vintage and antique jewellery is ideal for this, and it is certainly having a moment.
Marrying the old with the new
When the idea was sparked through conversations with Irish designer Aoife Rooney to invite a historian along to a fashion shoot (me), talk turned immediately to antique and vintage jewellery and Ireland's long history in the area.
Rooney’s latest collection, ‘Sovereignty by AOIFE ®’, which is available from 1 November online, takes a closer look at the purpose of her pieces. In her words, "With Sovereignty, I reimagined men’s tailoring through a female lens, crafting garments that help women shed those shackles of oppression and step fully into their own power."
This also included showcasing Irish fabrics such as Donegal tweed, alongside Circular CFS (Circular Fashion Standard) approved French jacquards and Italian virgin wools.
These timeless pieces that transcend trend or occasion required a setting that provided the same - in this case, the stunning, Gloster House, Co Offaly, a country estate to impress any visitor and elevate a collection not just by its aesthetic, but by its story - and adornments that reflected the polish of the designs.
Rooney notes that these pieces were meant to be worn, not coveted as part of a personal collection. It can be argued, so too can vintage and antique wares.
But what pieces should you opt for if you're looking to start a collection that's both faithful to history and works with contemporary fashion?
The piece of the season (for every season)
This year saw the return of the brooch, its popularity soaring as fashion enthusiasts prioritise personalising their looks.
Ireland has a long history with the brooch, from the 1,200 year-old Ardshanbally bronze brooch-pin, found as recently as 2024 (and recently displayed at the National Museum of Ireland (NMI) – Archaeology in the exhibition Words on the Wave), to the silver 8th century ‘Tara brooch’ ornamented in gold (actually found in Bettystown in the 1850), to the Celtic revival pieces of the 1840s, designed by artists such as Frederick Burton, RHA.
Such brooches remain on display in NMI – Decorative Arts & History too, including ‘The Burton Brooch’ made of gold with emeralds, the Irish Art Deco brooches by Mia Cranwill and later nods to medieval penannular brooches by Nan Holland in the 1940s.
Whether it is making a statement of national sovereignty by paying homage to early Irish metalwork or a display of one’s own sovereignty through personal expression – the brooch has always been and remains a statement piece.
In response, brooches from the mid-19th century, 1940s and the 1980s were chosen from PS Its Vintage’s collection for this shoot, paying homage to Ireland’s brooch history but also to the message behind Rooney’s collection – Irish women stepping into their power.
By choosing these pieces, the modern designs carry on the legacy of dress reform in the 19th century, the continued activism of Cumann na mBan in the 1940s and the continuation of second-wave feminism in the 1980s.
Keep it 'green'
With sustainability at the core of AOIFE ®, such a brand’s newest collection required complementary jewellery that also adheres to the circular economy – courtesy of antiques and vintage jewellery collector, P.S. It’s Vintage.
Pairing the brooches with pearl-drop earrings and dainty gold tasselled studs, such vintage jewellery added a layer of exclusivity through one-off pieces.
By now, we are all aware of the benefits of vintage shopping, how it promotes rehoming existing pieces, reduces waste and the demand for new production. But to attain true circularity, vintage and antiques dealers such as the team behind P.S. It’s Vintage, also promote maintaining your newly acquired pieces.
Tips on their website include blogs for care, maintenance and where to start when building a collection. It also features buying tips for antique jewellery, how to read hallmarks and ring-sizing, as well as suggesting you buy from specialists, promoting not just vintage shopping, but ethical vintage shopping – especially when dealing with precious stones.
Victorian brooches laden with pearls, sapphires and rubies are among just some pieces from the brand’s collection featured in the shoot for Rooney’s ‘Sovereignty’ available for sale online. Every piece was different, chosen for its character, quality and story.
Brooches can provide versatility while remaining timeless – much like Rooney’s work. The brooch may be ‘trending’, but the pieces themselves transcend trend, just like Rooney’s latest collection aims to achieve.
Building your own collection
To recreate your only take on such a pairing and chat to specialists, the joy of hunting one-off brooches can be found at antiques and vintage fairs across the country, such as those ran by vintageireland.eu.
It is here that you can often find P.S. Its Vintage’s collection to peruse in person, as well as other collectors, such as Vintage Venus Goddess (@vintagevenusgoddess) and Darling & Sattar (@darlingandsattar).
Though the latter do not focus on jewellery, their curation of an exceptional collection has lent itself to fashion shoots before and no doubt will again.
Other vintage collectors to watch out for outside of the fair scene include And Again (@and_again_ag), if you wanted to venture down the more sartorial route.
As Irish fashion continues to be inspired by its history, perhaps it is worth bringing the history on set too…
