The TikTok trend for anything and everything that’s ‘demure’ doesn’t seem to be going anywhere, judging by JW Anderson’s latest show.
The Northern Irish designer’s spring/summer 2025 collection focused on timeless elegance, allowing the structure of the clothes to talk more than embellishments, trims or details.
Anderson prioritised minimalism, and the show’s beauty looks reflected just that.
Anderson’s models championed a refined style of beauty, featuring glowing skin, baby pink lips and natural brows.
"The look for JW Anderson this season was focused on elegant, handsome beauty," said lead MERIT make-up artist, Lynsey Alexander.
"This is a simple yet considered look – there is a toughness in the eyebrow which we’re bushing up to make it bold and masculine, balanced by a feminine sweet pale pink lip."
The beauty was by no means radical, but rather classic and considered, a trend that’s been cropping up throughout London Fashion Week in shows such as Richard Quinn and SS Daley.
Alexander said the show’s hero product was their Brow 1990 Gel Pencil. "It’s a super thin pencil which creates natural brow hair strokes. Each hair can be individually pencilled," she explained.
For a similar look, you could use the Sculpted By Aimee Shape & Set Brow Duo, which has a tapered pencil on one end and a brow gel on the other. For a more affordable option, the Maybelline Build a Brow pencil and gel duo is a great drugstore alternative.
Alexander then layered the brow pencil with the Brow 1980 Volumising Pomade to create a brushed-up natural brow.
The focus of the beauty was on the brows and less so on the eyes – a similar technique employed by Roksanda’s spring/summer make-up looks, which made bold lips the highlight as opposed to statement eyes.
For this particular beauty look, hydration was key to achieving a natural and healthy appearance. "When skin is perfected and hydrated, you need less coverage," said Alexander.
"We have used a sweet chic pink lip colour – MERIT Signature Lip in Baby – to allow the natural beauty to shine through and add a touch of femininity."
Glossier's Generation G lipsticks also offer a gentle flush of colour without being too much, and are buildable.
Anderson’s runway drew upon this idea of simple beauty through sleek lines and sculptural tailoring. The unfussy collection focused on the virtue of natural form – with looks mimicking studio offcuts and layers of discarded fabrics.
The designer maintained his unique aesthetic by combining traditionally feminine and masculine silhouettes, with models walking the runway in oversized bulbous blazers and bulky knitted sweater vests.
The show was a lesson in simplicity, form and natural beauty – and while it was demure, it wasn’t without a sense of fun. Hemlines were short and flirty, while entirely sequinned dresses added a bit of disco-inspired excitement to the runway.
