Is the latest buzz product in aesthetics clinics the world over worth it? Kate Demolder tries it out.
Throughout my late 20s and, now, as I face my early 30s, I've taken a multi-faceted approach to skincare: I avoid the sun, apply SPF diligently, cover myself in a myriad of active ingredients and forgive myself whenever I forget to do any of the above.
I lean into facials too, when I can afford them (never), which means that the temptation to try new products, ones that promise outcomes not possible at home, often reels me in hook, line and sinker––which is the reason I own several skincare gadgets.
The latest toy to tickle my fancy is that of Sofwave: the highly sought-after skin tightening treatment which utilises heat to target fine lines as they sit on the face.
For this piece, I was offered, for free, a Sofwave treatment to review. It’s jammy, indeed. But I don’t make very much money. And I am doing it for the greater good (that we all get asked for ID every time we grab a Chardonnay and a packet of crisps for the rest of our ageing lives).
First things first, an explainer.
What is Sofwave?
Sofwave is the newest FDA-approved skin-tightening treatment which utilises parallel beam ultrasound technology to deliver heat to precisely target the appropriate level of the tissue to create the maximal growth of collagen, focusing on fine lines and wrinkles while lifting the skin.
It was originally cleared in 2019 for the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, and more recently in November of 2021 for lifting above the eyebrows, under the chin, and the neck tissue. The treatment, which lasts between 30-45 minute sessions, offers non-invasive, allegedly instant results, with little pain and zero downtime.
In case you’ve never before been targeted for beauty ads, collagen––the protein our body naturally produces, providing plumpness in our skin––begins to deplete from the age of 25. Thus, collagen-stimulating treatments are billed as both preventative and corrective in anti-ageing terms. And that’s where Sofwave comes in.
How does it work?
It’s orchestrated by a slim, handheld device that uses focused, high-frequency, high-intensity ultrasound technology, producing heat below the surface of the skin, targeting the tissue in the mid-dermis, approximately 1.5mm deep.
With high-frequency ultrasound, the goal is to cause coagulation of tissue. Coagulation in the skin can be thought of as a temporary injury. This temporary injury leads to a contraction of tissues (aka bringing the fibres closer together) and then a powerful stimulation of collagen and elastin production that peaks at around three to six months, rebuilding the skin’s supportive network from the inside out without damaging the surface.
Think of it in similar terms to the way we exercise. Exercise, especially strength-based training, causes tiny tears in the fabric of the muscle, later rebuilding them stronger with the right fuel and movement. Sofwave does that for our faces.
What areas are suitable?
The creators of Sofwave made it to target the face and neck, most notably the jowls many of us complain about around our jawline. The skin there tends to 'drop’ with age, something that can often accelerate with lifestyle choices such as smoking and sun damage.
Sofwave can be used to target this area, treating fine lines and wrinkles around the face and neck, as well as lifting the eyebrows, and tightening loose skin on the face with further treatments across the body currently being analysed and approved.
Is it painful?
In my experience, a little at times. If a Hollywood wax is a 10, Sofwave is a five, with occasional sharp shooting pains in certain areas as the treatment is being applied. A numbing cream is applied prior to the application, but for me, the procedure still employs occasional blasts of extreme heat, which lead to the occasional twinge.
In the lead-up to this, my skin felt warmer and warmer until it reached an intensity that almost made me pull away, but then the device beeped again, signalling that the 30-second cycle was complete and it was time to move to a new section.
The pain didn’t stop me and wouldn’t stop me again. The rest of my face and neck didn’t hurt, but apparently, the chin can provoke a bit of a reaction. An entirely painless procedure this is not, but instead, very manageably uncomfortable at times.
When can results be seen?
They say immediately. I did notice a difference as soon as I stepped off the bed I have to say, as displayed by photographs taken of me before and after the procedure. Whether that was due to the application process acting like an enormous gua sha and enlisting the help of lymphatic drainage, I cannot be sure.
For someone who has never enjoyed the sight of her jaw, I definitely felt more taut as the weeks went on –including over Christmas, which is, arguably, the time when our jaws are most full.
The collagen regeneration process can sometimes take up to 12 weeks, so patients are expected to see ongoing improvements for up to three months. Patients under 60 will gain the best results, the experts say.
For me, at 29, it’s still seen as preventative, with most of Hanaphy’s clients sitting around the 40 mark. Follow-up treatments aren’t needed for around 18 months, former nurse and current aesthetics educator Kerry Hanaphy tells me.
"Our clients have had fantastic results with Sofwave thus far. We are absolutely delighted with the results received and the feedback we’ve had. As you can see an initial lift on the skin after the session, the big changes begin to appear as early as two to three weeks post-treatment with the maximum result at 12 weeks.
"We’ve found all clients have responded quite well," she continues. "However, it is important to manage expectations, as with all treatments it does have its limitations in some cases. [It] benefits a range of clients from the early twenties upwards.
"We feel the perfect client is someone looking to slow the signs of ageing, in particular those who feel they need a lift to the skin. Having experienced both sides of Sofwave, both as a client and practitioner I’ve found the treatment’s main downside to be the cost. It’s not a cheap fix, it is an investment into your skin."
My final takeaway
I think the excitement from seeing immediate results riled me up for an even better outcome, and I lost my grip on reasonable expectations. I do not, by any means, look completely different. But this subtlety appeals to me.
Unlike other treatments such as Botox and fillers which can visibly alter, this enhances and rejuvenates by preventing visible signs of ageing. Your skin also still looks like skin, which is important to me. On a personal level, my jaw/jowls––once a problem area for me––certainly feel more taught three months in.
I may still be a little young for it, but perhaps this treatment works preventatively too. I'd definitely do it again, which means that collagen stimulation goes an even longer way than I thought.
For an expensive treatment, I'd only recommend it for those serious about collagen banking, not those who want a quick fix. But for those who want to zhush up their jawline without venturing into ultra-filler land, this is the treatment for you.
The cost
The Kerry Hanaphy Clinic on South William Street, Dublin 2, offers Sofwave in four unique areas; The Full Face & Neck (RRP €3,250), Brow Lift (€1,250), Lower Face and Submental (€1,750) and Lower Face, Neck and Submental (€2,195).
Read more: Skin Trust Club: An honest review of Cork-based AI skincare
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ.
