From football influences to fashion week regulars, Victoria G. L. Brunton shares a round-up of ten Irish brands that are setting the pace for Irish design on a global scale.
With collections that wouldn't be out of place on the streets of NYC, Paris, or Milan – if you don’t know them already, you should.
Pellador
Led by printmaker-turned-fashion designer Greg Hall, Pellador is a new, spin-off label of Hall’s original brand, Execute Exist.
Based in Limerick and driven by Irish culture, the creator has listed some of the inspirations behind his previous works as megalithic tombs like Newgrange and even the Irish language itself. Similarly, the motivation behind Pellador was Irish football nostalgia; the label’s launch saw a knitted jumper referencing the iconic 1990 World Cup jersey that took the internet by storm.
Speaking to Hall about the brand's immensely successful launch, he says: "It was amazing to see such a positive initial response after working on the brand for so long. I think a lot of things worked in our favour timing-wise."
They certainly did; I remember being bombarded with numerous Instagram stories, each one showcasing eye-catching, bright green, retro-influenced knitted Irish jerseys – Pellador all but broke the Irish internet. I’m proud to say that I couldn’t resist contributing to the chaos and was lucky enough to secure a jumper on the second drop. I can also confirm that it is, without a doubt, worth the hype.
Ciara Allen Designs
Independent and ethical, Ciara Allen's designs can be recognised by their androgynous aesthetic, contrast detailing, and structured outlines.
Blurring the lines between streetwear and tailoring, the designer states her inspirations as a focus on a multitude of themes such as escapism, exploration, and freedom. Deeply rooted in a "fashion is for everyone" philosophy that focuses on inclusivity for all, each of Allen’s pieces is unisex and unrestricted to the confines of gender, size, or age.
Impressively, each piece is handmade, created on a made-to-order basis and even the prints are unique - digital patterns imagined by the designer. The result? Pieces that ensure their wearer stands out from the crowd in good conscience – a win, win.
RUEDI
Hailing from Cookstown, Co Tyrone, Ruedi Maguire is a couture designer specialising in women’s occasion wear and bridal.
The creator’s namesake label RUEDI is identifiable a mile off thanks to immaculately cut, geometric silhouettes, flawless pleating, belt-cinched waists and a consistently vibrant colour palette. It goes without saying, as is usually the case for couture, the designer brings each piece to life by hand, from the creation of intricate patterns making to the physical garment construction.
In an interview with Ruth O’Connor for The Independent, the designer explains the importance behind his methods: "It’s about thinking more about what goes into a piece of clothing: the fabric, the way it’s cut, who made it and why it will last longer. Trends are so instant and rapid now thanks to social media — a celebrity or influencer will wear a piece and suddenly everyone wants it."
Conor O Brien Design
A graduate of Dublin’s NCAD, Conor O’Brien paired his academic learnings with a family member’s mentorship at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic to begin, what has now become, his namesake label.
O’Brien’s designs focus heavily on the Aran knitting tradition, and the designer’s work can be recognised by chunky, woven textures typical of Aran jumpers reimagined into more contemporary, streamlined silhouettes that belong in modern settings.
Another designer who seeks to break the chain of over-production and over-consumption the fashion industry demands, O’Brien says: "I think to embrace trend cycles is not only harmful to the environment with the pressure it puts on production, but it’s also harmful to originality in dressing.
"I also believe there is too much pressure on emerging brands to release collections per season and I find this slavishly sycophantic to the traditional structure of the fashion industry. That’s why I opt to break out of it and release clothing more organically; engaging my customer base in my process and see what people are genuinely wanting to wear and will cherish."
Something tells me the OG Aran wearers - island-dwelling fishermen and farmers based in the West of Ireland - would appreciate that sentiment.
Imara Earth
Imara Earth is an environmentally conscious, ethical, and sustainable label with an innovative twist.
The founder of Amy Condell’s "hair brain idea" of a reversible bucket hat-turned-bag (the designer coined it a ‘hag’), the brand now boasts a line-up of multi-functional, unisex garments that are made using carefully sourced materials such as local, Irish-woven linen and 100% GOTS certified organic cotton.
In terms of inspiration, the designer needs to look no further than her global upbringing. Born in Donegal and raised in Kenya, with stints in New York and Dublin to complete the picture, the influence of Condell’s well-traveled and richly cultured life transpires in the bohemian aesthetic of her work.
Loose silhouettes, detailed embroidery, and airy fabrics are brought to life between two studios based in Galway and Dublin.
Native Denims
Launched in 2018, on a mission to rekindle the demand for sustainable, high-quality garments, Native Denims aims to re-instate the conscious consumption of the early eighties.
Designing in-house, focusing on classic construction techniques, and even working on vintage machines to ensure an authentic finish, the brand produces exceptional jeans that rival some of the best denim labels on the market.
Further proving the makers’ confidence in their craft, each pair of jeans are guaranteed for five years after they are purchased, meaning they can be altered or repaired free of charge.
Electronic Sheep
Founded by multi-disciplinary artists Brenda Aherne and Helen Delany, Electric Sheep is a representation of the pair’s distinct approach to design, with drawings and typography based on narrative storylines from their lives printed and woven into each piece of every collection.
The brand is known for its collaborative nature, with the label regularly working with artists, activists, historians, and others to create their ethically-conscious garments, often donating or drawing attention to charities and worthy causes.
The Tweed Project
Operating from a small atelier in Galway, The Tweed Project creates one-off pieces from locally sourced materials, rightly defining themselves as "an authentic expression of Irish design."
Each garment is designed and manufactured in-house, by hand, from premium Donegal Tweed and Irish linen.
In taking the time to carefully consider each item from ideation to production, the brand ensures every piece receives "all the love and attention" it requires in order to be an unparalleled exhibition of Irish craftsmanship.
Ros Duke
A regular feature in the glossy magazines of Vogue and Cosmopolitan, Ros Duke is an example of just how much of a mark Irish designers can make on a global scale.
Like many of her counterparts in this list, Duke is a designer who has always taken a conscious and considered approach to design with environmental awareness at heart.
Designed to last, the majority of the label’s cashmere is proudly made in Dublin by artisan knitters, aside from a select number of styles that are made in Europe and Nepal by family-run artisan production units.
Committed to low-impact production, the designer says that her only goal is to produce modern and essential cashmere knitwear - and that she does.
Bugs Garson
While packing up her grandparents’ Long Island home, Dublin-born designer Aideen Gaynor stumbled upon a series of letters written by her grandmother to her grandfather, sent over the months leading up to their wedding in 1948.
Each note was signed off with Bugs Garson - an alias her grandmother had used to maintain privacy – and so, the moniker for one of Ireland’s most promising brands was born.
Each piece of her most recent collection, which was showcased in 2021, was inspired by the narratives of individual letters; creating a line-up of distinctly traditional outlines wrapped in washed-out florals and photographic hues, each finished with delicate embroidery and trailing threads.
If there was one to watch, it’s Bugs Garson.
