Despite the name, the Internet's latest skincare trend has nothing to do with slugs, snails or even snail gel. Instead, "slugging" is practice with its roots in Korean beauty that has taken social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram by storm.
It involves coating the face with a thick, oily product to create a barrier between the delicate skin of the face and the outside world, but what products are best? When do you slug, and should everyone be slugging?
Here, Jennifer Rock of The Skin Nerd breaks down what this trend is all about, and how to get started yourself.
What is slugging?
Slugging is classed as occlusion (the state of being closed) and has had a recent resurgence as a K-Beauty trend that has become hugely popular on TikTok. According to Lookfantastic's 2021 trend report, Slugging saw a search increase of 319% in the last year, but some skin experts are still skeptical about its benefits.
Deriving from South Korea, slugging involves coating your face in petroleum-based products before bedtime to lock in moisture and help to treat transepidermal moisture loss (also known as TEWL).
Although TikTok has seen the trend go viral this year, the name comes from the clear residue left on the skin after application, and has a history in dermatology, where an occlusive agent such as Vaseline is used to seal moisture into the skin overnight.
Skin occlusion can produce changes in the skin including barrier permeability, boosting hydration and can increase percutaneous absorption of applied chemicals in some cases. On the other hand, slugging can compromise the skin barrier function and aggravates the irritant effect of any applied compounds.
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What kind of products work best for it?
Petroleum is a type of mineral oil and an effective occlusive, making it ideal for slugging. Alternatively, emollient-based moisturisers are suitable.
When should you add it into your routine, and how often?
Slugging is typically carried out in the evening, as part of a night-time routine. A thick, shiny layer of product is harder to disguise during daylight hours! It is important to note that slugging is not to be confused with or used in lieu of an active regime but is ideal for sensitised, reactive skin.
Does it suit all skin types?
Slugging can work for all skin types but is best for more dehydrated and drier skins. I would not recommend using this technique every night, but it can be beneficial after exfoliation and on top of serums for deeper penetration. If you are acne prone, opt for a more emollient base rather than a heavy petroleum base product to slug.
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Is it best recommended for winter, or can it be done all year?
It can be done at any time of the year, however, be mindful of hot weather as extreme heat and slugging can trap sweat under the skin which can clog the pores and lead to further irritation.
Are there certain skin complaints that can be helped or made worse by slugging?
Slugging can cause irritation or congestion if carried out too frequently. Only use it when skin needs a pick-me-up or additional aid in the further penetration of actives in your skin care.
What ingredients should we look out for in products we use for slugging?
Petroleum jelly is the key ingredient in this technique. You can also try oils such as argan, jojoba and olive oils but these may not be as effective as petroleum.
