Menswear and haute couture shows are exciting, but nothing quite beats the main event that is women’s fashion week. It’s where designers really focus their attention and energy, revealing the new trends on the cutting edge of style.
Fashion month kicks off in New York, and this season it’s all about what we’re going to be wearing in autumn/winter 2020. Sustainability will likely be front and centre, as the month comes hot on the heels of Copenhagen Fashion Week, which unveiled an ambitious and forward-thinking plan to tackle its environmental impact, and set an industry standard.
Here’s what we can expect from each of the big four: New York (February 7 – 12), London (February 14 – 18), Milan (February 18 – 24) and Paris (February 24 – March 3).
New York
New York Fashion Week could be a strange one this season. Normally, stylists would look at the shows and pull outfits for the upcoming Oscars, but the awards do has been pulled forward this year, meaning it’s smack bang in the middle of NYFW – on February 9. Some designers won’t even have shown yet, and celebrities and stylists may be too busy prepping in LA to pay much attention.
Unsurprisingly, it’s a noticeably quiet schedule. Many of the heavy hitters are missing, including Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, and Pyer Moss.
Eclectic designer Jeremy Scott has jumped ship too. WWD reported a statement from the brand: "Jeremy Scott will no longer be showing his fall-winter 2020 collection during New York Fashion Week. In a move to pay homage to the city that launched his design career, Jeremy Scott will show his upcoming collection in Paris in July."
Tom Ford is moving to LA and showing his collection two days before the Oscars – a very savvy move, if he’s hoping stars will wear his outfits straight off the runway.
There are still some big names on the schedule though, including Oscar de la Renta, Prabal Gurung, Brandon Maxwell and Marc Jacobs, who will close the event as usual. Making up for the sparse schedule are Proenza Schouler and Rodarte, who are returning after some time away from the Big Apple.
London
New York’s loss is arguably London’s gain, as one of the biggest additions to the schedule is Tommy Hilfiger, who will be showing a new collaboration with Lewis Hamilton at Tate Modern.
While NYC has done away with entirely separate gender fashion weeks, London is yet to catch up, although some brands, like Burberry, have combined menswear and womenswear into one show.
On 15th and 16th during #LFW February 2020, designers @TemperleyLondon and De La Vali will showcase collections as part of the public designer catwalks at the London Fashion Week Hub! Tickets available now via https://t.co/wTP2NdLnkf pic.twitter.com/2lVkSwWxsc
— London Fashion Week (@LondonFashionWk) January 18, 2020
While the schedule could still change, at the moment there’s no sign of big brands like Alexa Chung and House of Holland. Both Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto decamped elsewhere last season, and don’t seem to be hurrying back for AW20.
Last season there was also a new project promoting public shows, and this is set to continue. This time round, Temperley London and De La Vali will be showing to the public. It may seem like a democratisation of fashion, but tickets still cost £135-£245.
Although there are currently no public plans, it’s likely environmental activism group Extinction Rebellion will again protest at LFW. Last season activists tried to stop people from getting to shows and held a ‘funeral for fashion’.
Milan
In relaxed Italian style, the schedule for Milan Fashion Week has yet to be released. It really adds to the allure of the event, but we’re hoping to see big shows from Italian favourites like Versace and Gucci.
Last season, Donatella Versace went viral for inviting Jennifer Lopez to close her show in that iconic green jungle print dress. We’ll just have to wait and see how she’ll top that this year…
Paris
The finale of the #LVSS20 show. @TWNGhesquiere presented his latest collection for #LouisVuitton at the Cour Carrée of the Louvre in Paris. Watch now on Twitter or at https://t.co/C5bPv6KMm1 pic.twitter.com/XUXQv9wj10
— Louis Vuitton (@LouisVuitton) October 1, 2019
The finale of fashion month, Paris is the most consistent week of the big four. There are rarely any shock omissions from the schedule, and this season seems to be no different, with Dior, Thom Browne, Givenchy, Chanel and Louis Vuitton, all set to show.
In recent years, Paris Fashion Week has become an exciting event for female designers. This season, Virginie Viard is really getting into her groove as Karl Lagerfeld’s successor at Chanel, Sarah Burton will no doubt wow at Alexander McQueen, and Clare Waight Keller will once again put together a collection for Givenchy.
Last PFW, Off-White designer Virgil Abloh took some time off to rest, although the collection was shown as usual. He’s back to work now – recently showing a menswear collection for Louis Vuitton – and we’re sure he’ll plan something special for his return to his own brand.
