What is your earliest make-up memory?
I was enthralled by the beauty icons of the 1940's and 50's, screen sirens like Zsa Zsa Gabor, Marilyn Monroe and Maureen O’Hara (little did I know then that I would actually have the pleasure of meeting and working with Maureen O’Hara).
Their presence and beauty intrigued me and so the world of cosmetics always appealed to me. My earliest make-up memory was sitting by my grandmother’s side and watching her in the mirror as she pressed her compact powder across her cheeks and guided a deep red lipstick over her lips. She was a very beautiful lady. I admired her greatly and this, her morning routine, was something I never tired of watching. The scent of Max Factor Crème Puff always takes me back to this memory.
Did you always want to work in make-up and how did you get to where you are now?
I have always been drawn to creativity and working with my hands and so I knew that I was best suited to a line of work that allowed me to develop this and also to pursue my interest in beauty and cosmetics. I began my training 13 years ago, firstly on the CIBTAC Fashion, Photographic and Media Make-Up Course followed by Airbrushing Technique and Body Painting along with a Cidesco qualification in Face and Body.
I knew at some stage I would like to share my knowledge so I completed a Teacher Training Course and became registered with the Irish Teaching Council.
Over the years I have worked with many photographers, models and stylists on a variety of glossy publications and have appeared on TV3 and RTÉ offering my beauty advice and tips to the viewers. I also really enjoy my role as a contributor to many Irish magazines, it allows me to share my ideas and thoughts on up and coming make-up trends and how best all of us ladies can embrace these looks and evolve our personal style.
I have also worked as Ireland’s Max Factor Make Up Artist since 2009, a role I am still so excited by. Mr Max Factor has been hugely influential in the world of cosmetics, I love that he believed so intently that glamour should be within reach of all women, this may well be the reason why he was responsible for creating the world's first-ever mascara wand and putting the transformative tools for make-up artistry into the hands of every woman.
What are the biggest mistakes Irish women make when it comes to make-up?
Younger girls 16 – 30 years:
I sometimes find that younger girls can be a little heavy handed when applying product and forget that blending is a fundamental part of every make-up application. Foundation performs better and lasts longer when it has been applied lightly and in layers, then blended into the skin's surface using a brush or sponge. Applying one heavy application and failing to blend it sufficiently results in less adherence to the skin and more slide in the make-up the longer it has been on the skin, hence the need to re-apply and touch up.
30 – 50 years:
As our skin matures applying foundation or full coverage concealers underneath and around our eyes is not a flattering option, yet it is something I see all the time. A more youth enhancing alternative is to avoid placing any full coverage type products around your eyes and instead opt for a light, illuminating under-eye concealer. This product is developed specifically for the delicate and fine tissue around your eyes and will not show up fine lines or wrinkles in the way that other products will but instead will reflect light and keep the area looking fresh and hydrated. Twice daily use of a hydrating eye cream is the only other product I recommend applying on your eye area.
50 years +:
As we mature our skin becomes paler and our eyes may lose some of the definitions we take for granted in our youth. Therefore making sure our features are defined is paramount. One thing I always do with my more mature clients is shape and tint their eyebrows. The difference this makes is incredible, not only lifting the eye area but also adding definition and opening up the brow bone which in turn creates more surface area for a touch of eye makeup.
What was the best piece of make-up advice you personally were ever given and would like to pass on?
The best piece of make-up advice I have ever received is in fact not a practical piece of advice but more a personal one. A very good friend once told me that I must love myself and feel beautiful before ever putting any make-up on. That is something I struggled with throughout my twenties and I now feel it is so important that I pass this on to my students and clients alike.
The one make-up tool you can’t live without?
If I thought about having to do make-up minus one tool and the difficulties that would arise without it, I would have to say not having my angled liner brush would be the worst case scenario. I am a great believer in not following the rules and using brushes and tools in whatever way you fancy.
I use my angled liner brush to apply gels, powders and waxes to the brows, to apply gel, liquid and kohl liner (take it from the nib of the pencil) to the upper lash line, to apply cream concealer to the water line (brightens the eyes) and to perfect the edge of any red or dark lipsticks. It is an extremely useful and versatile tool.
Your favourite red and nude lipsticks ?
The red for me is Lancôme Rouge Absolu in #150 Rouge Odysee.
The nude would have to be Tom Ford Sable Smoke.
If you had total creative reign over one celebrity or model's face - who would that be and what look would you go for?
The singer-songwriter and cultural icon FKA twigs, she has taken the music and fashion world by storm and has an incredibly unique and eclectic sense of style. I believe because of her confidence, self-belief and attitude I could do any style of makeup, but I would most like to create something tribal and ethnic using lots of colour and symbolism, accessorised with ‘House of Malakai’ face jewellery of which twigs is a huge fan, as am I.
Tell us about one product has been a constant in your make-up kit?
Gel liners, cream shadows and paint pots along with most other semi-solid type products have a tendency to dry out and become hard when exposed to the air due to frequent use. Inglot have a nifty solution in the form of a dry oil type product called Duraline, one drop added to your liner or shadow pots returns it to its cream like consistency instantly.
Of all the top international make-up artists who would like to spend a day working with and what would you do?
My dream day would have to be spent with Pat McGrath, Global Creative Director for Max Factor. I would happily just carry her kit around, although I believe her kit has its own bedroom when Pat checks into a hotel and is couriered at high speed through the streets of Paris via motorbike during Fashion Week, so I may be of little use to her!
I would most like to be privy to her creative process when she is designing a look for one of the gazillion fashion houses she is associated with or when she is developing new product lines, colour ranges and the make up looks that will showcase these collections. I find Pat McGrath hugely awe inducing and greatly inspiring.
If you were to nominate one other Irish make-up artist to do your make-up who would that be and why?
That would be Roy Wong. I love how he creates luminous complexions and paired back looks coupled with bold lips. It is also very interesting to see how others perceive you and in what style they would design a make-up look for you, as it can sometimes be difficult to see yourself in a way other than what you usually do.
Name your top three desert island products and why?
- Eve Lom Tinted Moisturizer
- NARS The Multiple
- Max Factor False Lash Effect
With these three simple products I can create an entire look - hydrate my skin while creating a more even complexion with Eve Lom Tinted Moisturiser, add colour, sheen and glow by applying NARS The Multiple across my brow bone, cheeks and lips and lend some serious volume and length to my lash line by layering Max Factor False Lash Effect Mascara to upper and lower lashes for an immediate open eyed look.
Your favourite beauty / make-up book?
Kevyn Aucoin ‘Face Forward’, first published in 2000 - it was a New York Times bestseller and includes portrait subjects such as Julia Roberts, Sharon Stone, Martha Stewart and Tori Amos.
If money was no option what make-up gift would you give to yourself tomorrow?
The entire contents of Space NK Apothecary.
What is your number one piece of advice for anyone considering becoming a professional make-up artist?
Do it, try everything and if you like it, stick with it and if not, try something else.
Your social media preference and why?
I live in the dark ages and I love the ritual of purchasing magazines, the tactile experience of leafing through them, making hot chocolate and getting cosy at home. But, when I am online I would spend more time on Instagram and Pinterest because they are extremely visual and house a plethora of fashion, beauty and styling imagery.
