The Costa del Sol on Spain’s south coast is often synonymous with the tourist-laden towns of Torremolinos, Benalmádena, Fuengirola and Marbella, which you can expect to be heaving during the holiday season. For those in search of the almost-guaranteed good weather, turquoise waters and convenience of the short flight to Malaga, the Costa del Sol is unparalleled in its popularity. However, holidaymakers seeking a Spanish experience away from the disco-bars, crowded beaches and fast pace of the aforementioned towns could do well to leave Malaga Airport and drive an hour east to the municipality of Nerja.
The Big Picture:
Nerja has a rich history dating back to the early Palaeolithic age (about 25,000 years ago), evidence of which can be seen in the cave paintings of the Cuevas de Nerja, a series of huge caverns stretching for almost five kilometres. The caves are open to the public and guided tours can be booked via thenerjacaves.com. They also provide the dramatic backdrop for the annual Festival de Música y Danza, which plays host to many local and internationally renowned musicians and dancers every July and August. Alternatively, visitors to Nerja can get their culture fix and take a break from the sun by visiting the air-conditioned Museo de Nerja, situated in the Plaza de España, just a short stroll from the jewel in Nerja’s crown, the Balcón de Europa.
Colloquially referred to as El Balcón, this spectacular promenade (above) culminates in a semi-circular viewing point which juts out into the Mediterranean Sea with breathtaking views of the Sierra Almijara mountain range; the perfect place for a stroll with an ice-cream from one of the many heladería flanking Nerja’s main square. The Plaza Balcón de Europa is a great place for people-watching, particularly during peak holiday season when the square’s focal point, the 17th century Church of El Salvador, hosts weddings daily. El Balcón was once an elaborate fortress during the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Peninsula. For those with an interest in exploring the architectural legacy of the Moors further, the pretty village of Frigiliana is nearby and the breathtaking Alhambra de Granada is about two-and-a-half hours by bus but well worth the journey.
By Day One Way, By Night Another...
Nerja is a popular choice for families due to its laid-back atmosphere, reasonably-priced accommodation and restaurants, welcoming locals and like-minded holidaymakers. Somehow, the Andalusian town has managed to balance bustling daytime activity and buzzing nightlife without compromising its innate air of authenticity.
Almost all of the town’s bars and restaurants are a hive of activity and conviviality until closing time, which tends to be at a relaxed 1.30am or so. Cochran’s Irish Bar, just off the Plaza Balcón de Europa, offers your typical ‘Irish pub abroad’ fare, but its attractive terraced beer garden overlooking the Mediterranean Sea is a great spot for a quick cerveza or café solo. The Budha Cocktail Bar on Calle de la Gloria serves cocktails so good they belong on a dessert menu (Toblerone Martini anyone?) and they have a great roof garden - perfect for after-dinner drinks. Be aware, though, when the roof garden is busy, service can be slow so be prepared to wait for your drinks whilst enjoying their complementary buttered popcorn and jelly skewers.
Party Time:
For visitors who want to carry on partying until sunrise, a 10-minute walk from the centre of town will lead to Plaza Tutti Frutti: a small square packed with neon-lit discobars and promo staff offering free neon-coloured shots. Its location on the outskirts of town cleverly ensures that hard partying is fairly self-contained and lets revellers enjoy their night to the fullest without impinging on residents or holidaymakers looking for a quieter experience. Plaza Tutti Fruitti has about a dozen pubs and disco-bars ranging from the ubiquitous Irish pub (The Dubliner) to bars banging out full-on house, techno and dance music (Agora, Tantra, Bar Se7en). Around the corner, on Calle el Chaparil, is Rockefeller, a nightclub which continues on until about 6am. On weekdays during the holiday season, tourists mingle comfortably with locals in the disco-bars and nightclubs but, come Friday, the youth of Nerja descend on Plaza Tutti Frutti to party so the vibe is definitely more geared towards locals and you might find it challenging to gain entry to the nightclubs in particular as queues can be long and unmoving.
If partying ‘til dawn isn’t your thing, there is still plenty of exuberance to be experienced around Nerja’s main square at El Balcón and its main tributaries: Calle Puerta del Mar, Calle Pintada, Calle Almte Ferrándiz, Calle Hernando de Carabeo and Calle Granada. Amble along the beautiful, narrow streets which are thankfully shaded from the sun by white tarpaulin sheets strung from the roofs of whitewashed shops, bars, restaurants and cafes.
Shopping:
On Calle Pintada, the main shopping street, shops stay open until about 9pm, but many will close for siesta between 2pm and 5pm. Regular visitors to Spain know that there are always bargains to be had in leather goods and there are leather vendors in abundance on the streets of Nerja. One particularly worthy of mention, however, is Manos Artesanos Handmade Leather Goods & Jewellery on Calle Pintada. This family-run business, established in the 70’s, sells a wide and unique range of leather goods that are hand-crafted in a workshop at the back of the premises. The shop also sells glassware, jewellery and ceramics made by local craftspeople.
Other notable shops in the area are Azabache on Calle Carabeo (above), selling beautiful, unique clothing and homewares; it’s textile heaven. La Cueva Moda appears to be a tiny Spanish boutique, but enter the shop, just under the arch on Calle del Carmen, and you will find that it houses three levels of colour-coded clothing suitable for all ages in that beautiful, light and airy Mediterranean style and for very reasonable prices. If you’ve forgotten to bring your favourite dress or pair of shoes, this is the place to visit.
Dinner Time:
When it comes to eating, your best bet is to wander up any of the streets off Nerja’s main square, Plaza Balcón de Europa, browse the menus and see what takes your fancy. There are some notable highlights: Scarletta’s on Calle Cristo offers rooftop dining during the summer season and serves, possibly, the best fillet steak you’ll ever eat. I’m a fussy steak eater – it has to be just between blue and rare, but hot all the way through – and this steak, served with just the right amount of sautéed potatoes and marinated vegetables (below), really impressed me.
A meal for two including wine came in at just over €60. Just across the road, La Brasería, serves a ‘Mediterranean art menu’ with adventurous dishes using locally sourced meat and fish. The suckling lamb is a particular menu highlight; this restaurant is a treat for carnivores and seafood-lovers. In another direction, on Calle Diputacion Provincial, German husband and wife team Rainer and Steffi run El Refugio which offers reliably good food and warm hospitality.
Bedding Down:
Accommodation in Nerja ranges from basic hostals, starting at about €50 for a single room during peak season, all the way up to well-known large chain hotels offering all-inclusive packages to take the pressure off when travelling with children. I stayed in the two-star Hotel Mena Plaza, centrally located on the large but tranquil Plaza de España. This mid-range hotel is modern and very clean. With a small roof-top pool and bright and airy café-bar serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, Hotel Mena Plaza is very reasonably priced; my stay averaged out at €73 per night for a double room with a balcony overlooking the square. It is perhaps a little compact for families with young children who are in search of a large pool area and kids’ club facilities, but it is perfect for couples, solo travellers and groups of friends looking for a comfortable base from which to explore Nerja.
Getting There:
Ryanair flies from Dublin, Cork, Knock and Shannon to Malaga. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast City Airport to Malaga too. A taxi to Nerja from Malaga airport takes about 45 minutes and will set you back about €100, but if you book in advance from taximinibusnerja.com you can avail of a €65 special offer for booking online. Alternatively, you can get a shuttle bus from Malaga Airport to Malaga Bus Station and from there to Nerja for about €3. This journey will take you approximately two hours.
For more information on Nerja, nerjatoday.com is a great resource.
Sheena Madden
