Some of the most celebrated and emerging design talents across the UK and Ireland took to the runways and studios of London to showcase their Spring Summer 13 collections as part of the UK's first dedicated menswear week, which ran through the weekend.
The entire event was chaired by Dylan Jones, editor of GQ and Harold Tilmann, Chairman of the British Fashion Council, and the weekend has been a resounding success. Beginning with Prince Charles' opening evening on Thursday night, each day showcased different talents and hosted parties for the cream of the fashion crop.
From emerging design talents like Omar Kashoura, James Long and our very own JW Anderson to modern, coveted brands like Pringle of Scotland, Nicole Farhi and Margaret Howell to international powerhouses like Tom Ford and Burberry, all tastes and styles were catered for.
Richard Nicoll presented his debut menswear line to a packed room, full of the fashion hungry, and certainly didn't disappoint, while designer of the moment, Jonathan Saunders, presented his new menswear line in presentation format, disappointing the fashion set hoping for a show like his rooftop, dusk-light, laser show for his Ready-To-Wear show in February. Yet astounding with the collection he gave.
Here's a look at some of the talent on display over the weekend:
YMC
YMC presented a preppy meets polo meets beachwear collection which relied heavily on 1950's styles, and some quirky prints thrown in for good measure. One of the show-stoppers was a three-look ode to leopard print at the end.
Richard James
Not only was Elton John the guest of honour for Richard James' SS13 collection, it was all a bit Elton-inspired itself! From the mix of velvet jackets, bright blocky colours and loud, flower-power prints, it was all a fashion homage to the Rocket Man.
Single-breasted suits kept things traditional, while tie colour was often matched with loafers. The blazer was key, in a number of styles while we spied a little bit of glitter in the socks.
All in all it was a healthy mix of Riviera chic with classic British tailoring, across a whole spectrum of colour. It takes a brave man to pull off an Elton-inspired collection.
Snapped in the ecletic front row was Elton himself, with Tinie Tempah and David Gandy. Other big names who attended London Collections: Men included Alexa Chung, Nick Grimshaw, Matt Smith and Benedict Cumberbatch, who actually walked during one of the shows.
James Long
One of the stand-out stars for us over the weekend was James Long, who presented his sixth menswear collection. Long used a variety of geometric lines to embellish jumpers and shirts in a unique, bespoke and futuristic way. Crosshatch was also thoroughly present across the collection.
The palette was generally kept between navy and white, with a sea of kilt-like, 3/4 length shorts in pleats, dark jewel tones and leather. We loved the oversized, thick waists used, but winced at the sight of socks and sandals, on almost every model.
Irish designer Jonathan Anderson presented JW Anderson SS13 which was a huge leap from his neoprene, boxy, coat-driven Autumn/Winter collection.Teddy bear prints were a quirky touch added to a bright and bold collection full of pink and yellow hues. Lace, sheer separates were brought along from snippets we have seen previously from Marc Jacobs to include large floral motifs in different colours.
Nicole Farhi
Another stellar collection came in the form of anglo-french brand Nicole Farhi, who transitioned the underwear as outerwear from womens to menswear. It was a fifties affair with grandad shapes and vintage, pyjama and wallpaper prints.
One of the stand-out looks was a short-sleeved polo shirt made of towel-like fabric while the entire collection relied on jumpers tucked into printed shorts, some jumpers and blazers being exceptionally thick for the season that's in it.
Pringle of Scotland
Pringle of Scotland showcased the final collection of design director Alistar Carr, after just one year at the helm. The collection was a varied tribute to the elements. Starting out with deep, muted wind-inspired tones of grey and cream, erupting into a blaze of burnt, fiery oranges and reds.
Bright, deep blues followed until finally, charred, earthy blacks and browns concluded the collection. Key looks were light knits and signature Argyle patterns but everything was kept quite minimal and in clean shapes.
Matthew Miller
Short shorts were the overhwhelming trend of the collection, which began in a dark palette eventually emerging, then bursting into light and crisp whites. Shaggy, spiky locks were nicely matched with embossed and laser-cut blazers, shirts and jackets.
The double-breasted suits showcased slightly more feminine shapes, while the stand-out look of the show was a full suit made from CCTV image print. Tailoring around the neck and shoulders was severe and crisp.
Christopher Shannon
Christopher Shannon had models walk down the runway with their foreheads and cheekbones adorned with flower petals, while their hair was slicked back to give all attention to the stripes that gobbled up the entire collection.
Stripes, in a variety of tones, thickness and shapes, reigned supreme in almost every look. Blocky, mono-coloured shirts and shorts were mixed with tiki/tribal, striped designs and fabrics to give the collection a feel of English heritage with a tribal, folk twist.
The finale consisted of a number of separates made entireley of strips of different textured but single coloured fabrics.
A triumphant, strong and creative sea of designers helped make last weekend one of the biggest weekends for menswear on the planet in recent years. It's going to be hard for any other fashion capital to follow in the footsteps of London.
