Kate & Ava were established in 2006 by Kate Reilly and Ava Cassidy. This Dublin label is known for its feminine, tailored designs in rich, luxuriant fabrics including wools, silks and jerseys.
Their designs are classic but maintain a modern freshness. The Kate & Ava woman exudes confidence and knows what she likes. As designers they do not follow trends but refine their collection each season. We spoke to the design team about their work as designers and their inspiration.
Tell us a little about your selves and your backgrounds?
We both studied fashion at Grafton academy. We began designing together about a year after we finished there. We have both worked in various boutiques, buying offices, merchandising departments etc.
Did fashion (or art) run in either of your families?
Our mothers and grandmothers would have made clothes. We both have various family members who are artistic or who work in practical, hands on jobs like carpentry. Neither of us have any family members working in the fashion industry.
What were your interests while growing up?
Ava was interested in horse riding. Most summers and weekends were taken up with that and it didn’t leave time for much else.
At what point/age did you become conscious of your own style and fashion around you? Was there a person or brand that triggered that recognition?
Even as a kid, I think you are quite aware of your clothes and the pressure to wear the right thing. I remember in the early nineties everyone buying floppy felt hats or rubber bracelets. I used to read a lot of my sisters fashion magazines back then too. TV has an especially big impact when you’re young because your world is very small at that stage.
When did you know that you wanted to become designers your selves. Was it an instant epiphany or did it build over time?
I started out with a vague notion of what it involves and decided to study it but college does not prepare you for the amount of work and stress involved in running a design business. I love it but it is definitely something that has to build over time. Epiphany doesn’t come into it.
Did you face and hurdles or roadblocks once you made that decision? Or was it smooth sailing?
We faced a lot of problems. Everything was a challenge at first. We had difficulty finding a manufacturer and then when we did find one they closed down. We found another manufacturer and got the stock into shops in time for the season but at the time it was very stressful. There are always challenges.
How did you come to work together? Who initiated the thought first?
Ava came into the shop I was working in and we remembered each other from college and both agreed that we hated our jobs and we should start making clothes.
What are the challenges that you face working as a team? And how do you overcome them?
Like any team we have to compromise sometimes. We agree to disagree and move on.
So, who are Kate & Ava?
We want to make clothes that people feel great wearing, clothes that are comfortable and easy to wear but that are still different to other labels on offer. We feel fabric quality is important and we try to use mostly wool silk and cottons.
What point of view are you trying to set for the brand?
Kate and Ava is aimed at women who are interested in fashion but who also know what suits them. We like to design using classic shapes and fabrics. If we wouldn't wear one of our dresses it doesn't go into the collection. We want the Kate and Ava customer to be excited about wearing our garments. We feel that one can follow fashion without looking like a slave to current trends and this is the main ethos behind the label.
We've seen a few sets of [successful] designers working together to create one brand. What challenges or benefits do you find in working as a team?
We find working as a team is much easier than working alone. If one of us is having trouble with a pattern or accounts the other one can take over. It also helps to have two perspectives and view points on all designs. Sometimes it is difficult to amalgamate two ideas into one design.
What strength does each of you bring to the Kate & Ava?
Kate has attention to detail in terms of patterns and designs but Ava is always looking for ways to move the business forward. It works well for us, we are just different enough.
You just launched your latest collection. What was the idea & inspiration behind it?
Because we don’t work in a big team it’s not necessary to issue a strict brief at the start of the season. We start off with one idea. We both interpret it differently and then it evolves throughout the whole process. We make sure it’s cohesive in the end. We mostly concentrated on rich colours and fabrics for AW09
Many sleepless nights?
Not over the collection, no. Creating a new collection is the most fun part so we just enjoy it.
How many pieces did you end up with?
About 25.
How important do you find the presentation (styling, model, photographer) is to the design? What attitude or mood were you trying to convey with your lookbook?
When we were organising our SS09 photoshoot we knew we wanted it to look fresh and clean. We wanted the clothes to be the focal point not the make-up or location.
Favourite pieces?
I love the long blue silk dress from our spring summer collection. It was the first time we tried to do any evening wear and I was really pleased with the result. The gold ruffle hem dress is a favorite too it is perfect for parties. The gold fabric gives it a very luxurious feel.
What's the price range?
The collection prices ranges from €200 for shirts and skirts, €450 for coats and evening wear and €300-390 for most dresses.
What's next for the label?
We really want to expand outside Ireland in the next couple of seasons. We would like to increase the size of each collection produced so that we have a bigger range for people to buy into.
Stockists are:
Divine, Maynooth and Malahide
Anastasia, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Aria, Naas, Co. Kildare
Effigy Traleee Co. Kerry
Mary and Martha, Lisburn Road, Belfast
Ollie and Mac, Market Square, Navan, Co. Meath
County Boutique, Ennis, Co. Clare
Dai, Wexford
Muse, Waterford
Suzanne Belle, Kilkenny
Sofina, Enniskerry Co Wicklow
Seagreen Monkstown Co Dublin
Georges St Arcade Tulle boutique
