As fish is such a large category, I'm going to sub-divide it into 3 parts: this week we'll take a look at sea fish and then, over the next two weeks, shellfish and freshwater fish. Fish is an important source of high quality protein, minerals and vitamins. These days, as more and more of us eat less meat, I reckon it's a good idea to have a look at the different species that are available to us, and how best to use them. I must confess - I'm a bit of a fish addict! Whenever I go to a restaurant, fish is always what I look for on a menu. I just adore it in every shape or form. Sometimes I would almost be tempted to take the boat to France just to have lunch in Brittany - succulent langoustines and lobsters, helped down with a chilled Chablis - what utter bliss!
Fish is the most challenging and rewarding of all foods; the challenge is posed by the care with which it must be cooked, and the rewards are delectable. The marvellous thing about fish is that you can prepare a delicious meal from it very quickly, and with very little trouble. At the same time, it is nutritious, low in calories, and there is very little waste. It ranks with eggs for convenience and of all the protein rich foods it is the healthiest. Such fat as it contains (scarcely any in white fish) is high in polyunsaturates, and considered by some scientists to play a positive role in the prevention of heart attacks and strokes. Fish is also rich in iodine and vitamins, particularly all the B vitamins (hence its reputation as 'brain food').
Nowadays, we are offered a much wider range of fish than used to be the case although most of us probably aren't in close proximity to a fishmonger and have to buy our fish in the supermarket. There are a few things to be careful of when buying fish: the eyes should be bright and clear - if they're dull the fish isn't fresh. The gills should be bright scarlet in colour, the flesh firm and the skin shiny. Fish fillets should be translucent (not milky-white), firm and springy to the touch with no sign of discoloration.
This week we will look at the following sea fish: Bass; Sea Bream; Brill and Turbot; Cod; Flounder; Haddock; Hake; Halibut; Herring; John Dory; Mackerel; Monkfish; Red and Grey Mullet; Plaice; Dover and Lemon Sole. What I propose is to give simple recipes that have proved their worth to me through the years. A lot of these recipes, especially those for white fish, are interchangeable, so you can work with the material at hand.
Sea Bass: this beautiful, round fish is silver in colour, with white flesh and delicate flavour and texture; it's now protected in Ireland and any fish merchant found in possession of it gets a £500 fine. However, it is imported from France (which could just be our own bass coming back again!) and is available from good fishmongers. Sea Bass fillets with Tarragon is delicious.
Sea Bream: this round fish has very coarse big scales and is easily identifiable by a black spot behind the eyes. The flesh is pink and delicate. It's usually sold whole or in fillets. Try Baked Sea Bream with Capers and Lime.
Brill and Turbot: I reckon these two beauties, together with Dover sole, are the best flavoured of the flat fish. Although in season all the year round they don't seem to be widely available these days, so do grab one if you get the chance and try this recipe for Grilled Brill (or Turbot) with Crab Sauce.
Cod: this large round saltwater fish has a silver-grey skin with small yellow and brown spots. The flesh should be pure white and firm with a coarse texture. My recipe for Grilled Cod Fillets with Lemon Sauce can also be made with fillets of Flounder, Haddock, Hake, Halibut or Monkfish.
Herring: these are probably the cheapest and most highly nutritious food available to us. They are as high in protein as lean beef, and rich in vitamins A, B and D. Try Herrings in Oatmeal for something extremely good for you.
John Dory: this fish is usually 30-40cm (12-16 inches) long, but can grow to double that length. Its grey body has a huge, ugly head, which is a fearsome sight, but the head itself is brilliant for fish soups and stocks. Try my recipe for John Dory in Cider and Cream.
Mackerel: These are widely available from December to July. Like the herring, mackerel are highly nutritious and also very cheap. Usually about 30cm | 12 inches long, this fish is bright silver in colour with a striped blue and black back, and is a distant cousin of that tasty sea monster, the tuna fish. Mackerel have to be eaten very fresh indeed because of the oiliness which causes them to go 'off' quickly. In Connemara in the summer, we catch them around Clifden Bay and generally eat them within a couple of hours - the best way to do it! Grilled Mackerel with Gooseberry Sauce is delicious.
Monkfish: this is definitely one of my favourites! A deep-sea fish with an amazingly ugly head (the 'elephant man' of the sea?), usually only the tails are sold. Despite its ugliness, it is beautiful in flavour. It has a central backbone and no other smaller ones, which makes it easy to fillet. It can be poached, fried, grilled, baked, casseroled or steamed - and is beautiful when smoked. It's also excellent 'en brochette' with peppers and mushrooms, and then barbecued or grilled. Try this recipe for Roulade of Monkfish.
Red Mullet: this fish was hugely popular with the Romans and appears on many mosaic floors. Mostly living in the Mediterranean, it now migrates to our waters in the summer months and is usually available from June to August. A small salt-water fish with pinky-red skin, the flesh is white and firm. When cooking it, the liver is left in the fish for added flavour. I find them rather bony, but they are enjoyable if barbecued when very fresh, over herb twigs such as rosemary or fennel.
Grey Mullet: greyish-white, firm flesh under a grey skin, this fish is usually sold whole and can be baked, steamed, poached or grilled. If filleted, they are good grilled and served with Mornay Sauce.
Plaice: one of our most well-known fish, it has a brownish-grey upperside with bright orange spots and the underside is a creamy colour. Its flavour can be ruined through freezing and by institutional overcooking! It can be fried, poached, steamed, baked or grilled. Try Grilled Fillets of Plaice with Crab Butter.
Lemon Sole: this has always been considered inferior in flavour and texture to Dover sole, but it has a delicate, fresh flavour, nonetheless. It's best filleted and then grilled or fried with butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley - 'a la meuniere'. It's really at its best when simply cooked, and is excellent in fish cakes or pies.
Dover Sole: Usually known as 'Black Sole' in Ireland, this magnificent fish is in season all year round, and is one of the great fish of the world! It has inspired many cooks to create new recipes for it. A flat fish with an oval body and quite small fins, the skin on one side is brownish-grey and the underside is creamy-white. The flesh is fine textured with a very delicate flavour. It's probably best cooked the simplest way - grilled with butter and lemon - but I can't resist giving one of the great classical recipes here: Fillets of Dover Sole, Veronique.
Tommy FitzHerbert
