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What's in a Cream?

Friday, 19 February 2010

Elaine Butler

"Elaine Butler-Doolin is the founder of Bespoke Beauty, a past winner of the IBPA Beauty Therapist of the Year (Face), Elaine has been in the Beauty industry for the past 18 years. During this time she has been the beauty therapist for Hollywood A-lister's and worked with some of the biggest names in beauty. She is also the Beauty writer for the prestigious Social & Personal magazine In her capacity at Social & Personal Elaine is at the forefront of beauty and is privy to the latest treatment methods, technologies and products in the Beauty world.

"People are tired of 'production-line' beauty salons & spa's where there is a high turnover of staff and the customer never knows which Therapist they will have from one visit to the next. When I started out in Beauty we were taught to build up a relationship with your clients - beauty is a very personal thing and as such the client should feel at ease with, and know, the therapist whom looks after them. It is this value, amongst others which have disappeared from beauty salons, which I aim to redress in Bespoke Beauty" says Elaine. "
Ref:- http://www.bespokebeauty.ie/about.html

Product 1:-

Shampoo & Conditioner.

Buzzword:- 'Ceramides'

Ceramides are one of three types of lipids, or fats, that help keep moisture in the skin and hair. Ceramide-containing products are a new breed of products that contain the same balance of lipids as your skin but through pollution, bleach and a central heating we lose valuable lipids resulting in dry damaged brittle hair to combat this.

Extreme shampoo and conditioner from Redken will fortify the hair, the Cermides replace lost moisture and oils.

Product 2:-

Anti- ageing cream

Buzzword:- 'Retinol'

Retinol is used for Anti ageing

According to www.bellasugar.com :-

"Retinol is essentially the antioxidant vitamin A in its purest form. Because it has a small molecular structure, it easily penetrates into the top layer of the skin, moving down into the elastin and collagen layers. This ingredient works to help stimulate collagen production, increase cellular rejuvenation, and decrease pore size, creating softer, smoother skin. For these reasons, you'll often find retinol in anti -ageing products."
REF:-http://www.bellasugar.com/What-Retinol-When-Should-You-Start-Using-3012576

In May 2009, Vichy launched LiftActiv Retinol HA, first anti-wrinkle treatment to combat the 3 types of wrinkles which co-exist on the face, regardless of their stage of formation.

LiftActiv Retinol HA uses cutting edge technology and an innovative formula of Hyaluronic Acid + Retinol-A inspired by dermatological protocol to simultaneously target the 3 types of wrinkles, usually occurring in women 30-40 years, providing a filling action and immediate resurfacing effect.

Product 3:-

Anti Wrinkle cream

Buzzword:- Collagen

Collagen is the component in our skin that starts to break down as we age resulting in lines, wrinkles and sagging of the skin.

"It works with keratin to provide the skin with strength, flexibility, and resilience. As people age, however, collagen degradation occurs, leading to wrinkles. As such, it is an important substance for those looking for ways to fight the visible effects of aging on the skin. Some skincare professionals actually advise people on ways to stimulate the production of collagen in skin cells."REF:- http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-collagen.htm

16th February 2010: L'Oréal Paris launches Youth Code, the first range of anti-ageing products available on the high street and supermarkets that is based on breakthrough research on skin genes. The products follow 10 years of research by L'Oréal to establish the genes and proteins responsible for the youthful characteristics of skin.


A cream concentrate providing an ultra-rapid, smoothing and tautening effect, with a soft matt finish, applied to visible wrinkles

Product 4:-

Shimmer make-up

Buzzword:- Bismuth Chloride

This is a fine metallic powder used in cosmetics- it can create shimmer and shine in eyeshadows, mineral body make up etc.

"Bismuth chemicals are used in cosmetics for shiny look in eye shadow, nail varnish and lipstick due to metallic and pearlescent effect."
REF:- http://chemicalland21.com/lifescience/uh/BISMUTH%20OXIDE.htm

Product 5:-

De-toxifying face cream

Buzzword:- Marine Algae

Marine Algae (more commonly known as seaweed) has a calming and soothing effect on sensitive or irritated skin. It is particularly healing on conditions such as eczema and Acne Roasacea which Irish skin suffer with due to our climate. Also known as Sea Kelp is a sea plant. Kelp Powder is rich in amino acids, vitamins, minerals. Kelp powder helps to detoxify and re-balance the skin.

Crème de la mer (from €140) contains marine algae and is available from Brown Thomas, Harvey Nichols and the airport. A more affordable product containing Marine algae is Seavite cream (€25.00)

Product 6:-

Stretch mark cream turned anti wrinkle phenomenon!

Buzzword:- "Glycerine"

Glycerine is a Humectant meaning it draws moisture from the air to hydrate the skin
"Glycerin is a neutral, sweet-tasting, colorless, thick liquid which freezes to a gummy paste and which has a high boiling point. Glycerin can be dissolved into water or alcohol, but not oils. On the other hand, many things will dissolve into glycerin easier than they do into water or alcohol. So it is a good solvent."
REF:- http://www.pioneerthinking.com/glycerin.html

Cosmetic Benefits of Glycerin

It is a sweet, syrupy alcohol that has been used in cosmetics for hundreds of years as a solvent, plasticizer, humectant, emollient, and lubricant. Although still very often used, glycerin is being replaced more and more by its cheaper counterpart, sorbitol.
At one stage it was thought that glycerin could draw water out of the skin, instead of the other way round, but this idea has now been shown as unfounded.

What glycerin does do is help maintain the water balance in the intercellular matrix and in so doing it maintains the skin's homeostasis. It has also been suggested that glycerin found in this level helps other lipids to perform their work more effectively.

Classification of glycerin as a Cosmetic Ingredient:

It is a polyhydric alcohol and is classed as a polyol. It is used as a fragrance ingredient, humectant, skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant and viscosity decreasing agent. It is also known as glycerine, glycerol, glycyl alcohol, as well as 1,2,3-Propanetriol and 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane."REF:- http://www.dermaxime.com/glycerin.htm#Cosmetic%20benefits%20of%20glycerin

Strivectin is stretch-mark cream turned anti-wrinkle phenomenon, and is the number-one selling prestige skin cream in the entire world (including France)!!!!!
Celebrity fans include Jennifer Lopez, Katherine Heigl, Kylie Minogue, Charlize Theron, Simon Cowell and Paula Abdul.

StriVectin is available in Arnotts, Life Pharmacies, Cara Group, Health Express and CH Tralee.

Price Points for the Products are:

. SD 50 ml €89.00
. Eye Cream €60.00
. Neck Cream €105.00
. Deep Wrinkle Serum €175

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