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Red Lips for Every Skin Tone With Donna Fitzpatick

Tuesday, 10 February 2009

Donna Fitzpatrick -Ravishing in Red!

Donna Fitzpatrick MBA, MA, B.Sc. (Trinity College Dublin) CIBTAC
Creative and dynamic, Donna has amassed almost two decade's experience in the international cosmetics arena, where she experienced both the creative and business side of the industry.

Donna has trained as a make- up artist in New York, London and Milan. She built her reputation in New York where she worked as a chief make- up artist for Laura Mercier for the tri- state area, working on seasonal looks and various special events and promotions. She was also on the creative team of Estée Lauder New York, where she trained the national trainers and make- up artists of one of the largest make- up houses in the world.

While in New York, she worked alongside the world masters including François Nars (launching his brand at Saks 5th Avenue), Laura Mercier (at Laura Mercier launches and promotions) and Bobbi Brown (at various couture shows), indeed even being personally trained by Laura Mercier and François Nars.
She has acquired vast experience as a runway make- up artist and her list of famous cosmetic conquests include supermodel Tyra Banks and many other well- known models at New York couture shows, such as Donna Karen, Dana Buckman and Isaac Mizarhi.

Donna played a key part in launching Nars Cosmetics in Saks of 5th Avenue and also the global launch of Estée Lauder's Pleasures for Men.

Upon returning to Ireland she took residency as manager of Bobbi Brown in Brown Thomas. She has done the make- up for numerous magazine covers, including Rosanna Davison, Glenda Gilson, Kathryn Thomas, Fran Gosgrave, Ryan Tubridy, Craig Doyle and a host of other Irish models, celebrities, TV presenters and actresses. She has been a beauty broadcaster with a regular slot on the Orla Barry Show and has appeared on the Afternoon Show and Off the Rails. She has written numerous hair and beauty features for newspapers, magazines and Internet sites, such as consumer magazine iBeauty, The Star Newspaper, Salon Ireland and Irish Beauty,, and She is currently the beauty editor of Glow*.

Valentines Lips

Valentines Day is here again and love is most definitely in the air. Red is the colour of love and as such is the colour of one of the hottest Valentines looks every year. From 1950s sex bomb Marilyn Monroe right through to modern day Burlesque babe Dita Von Teese, red is the shade that mixes passion with a hint of danger and a sprinkling of sexy seduction.

'Unfortunately red is a very difficult shade of lipstick to carry off for numerous reasons,' says Donna. 'First of all, most of us choose the wrong shade, often choosing a warm, tomato- red that looks great in a tube, but washes us cool- skinned Celts out. Secondly, red absorbs the light; effectively making the surface area of lips looks thinner and flatter. Also, not only do dark shades, such as reds, have a tendency to smudge and feather, they are also transferable, which not so good when romance and Valentines smooching is on your mind!'

From plumpers to fixers, matt finishes to glosses and warm reds to cool ones, here's Donna's guide to getting red lips right this Valentines.

"RED is a colour that actually causes physiological changes in the body. It increases blood pressure, respiration rate and heartbeat. It stimulates the appetite. It's the colour with the longest wavelength to the human eye and therefore is the colour that gets noticed most. (Pallingston, J., 1999, Lipstick: A celebration of the world's favourite cosmetic, St Martin's Press, New York)"
Alexander Theroux the author of Primary Colours: Three Essays says red is the symbolic colour of love, magic, revolution, martyrdom, hell, death and fervor. (Theroux, A., 1996, Primary Colours: Three Essays, Henry Holt & Company, New York)

Simple rule of thumb

". Fair or ruddy skin - stick to cherry reds (a deep bright red colour, like that of a cherry)
. Olive complexions - fire engine red (is an intense, bright red commonly used on emergency vehicles)
. Dark skin - crimsons (is a strong, bright, deep red colour combined with some blue, resulting in a tiny degree of purple)
. Wear minimal makeup if you are wearing red lipstick (keep it simple)
. Using a lip scrub before hand will leave lips smooth and soft and take on colour better (no lip scrub, after brushing your teeth, brush your lips softly)
. Thin lips - apply colour minimally without over accentuating your lips (a tint or applying colour with fingers is a much better bet)
. Lipstick is versatile because you can dab the colour lightly, use it as a stain, use it strongly and mix it with gloss
20s - Stay clear from matte formulas; go for sheer, shiny and light textures. Glosses are great - it not only reflects light but also makes small lips look fuller
30s - Go for stains or tints, they give lips a fresh hint of colour or that just bitten look - perfect for the boardroom or for a night out in town
40s - It is a well known fact that strong pigmented lipsticks like reds are hard to maintain if you're on the go, so girls with a busy schedule settle for long lasting formulas that are also moisturising
50s and beyond - as you age lips become drier and lose some of their definition and pigment making it more likely for red lipstick to bleed or not last long. Coating the lips with a liner always helps as the liner acts as a backup if your lipstick happens to 'disappear'. Liners can also make an uneven mouth look more balanced (never over draw your lips under any circumstance)"
Ref:"Red lips at any age" Dhav Naidu

Model 1:- Raychel
Raychel has a classic Irish complexion. Fair skinned with red hair.
The Look: Deep red glossy that proves that red works really well on all women- even the most Celtic looking.
Possible areas for discussion: choosing a red, maximising surface area, definition, longevity.
Inspiration: Blathnaid Ni Chofaigh, Juliette Moore.
Miss Sporty Liner
"Cranberry Craze"
Christian Breton Lip Gloss "Read my Lips"
Proving that red lips can look great on anybody, a deep, dark glossy red works fantastically well on beautifully pale and Celtic Raychel. Many women fear that red lipstick will make their lips look smaller and less defined, but a liner is fantastic to allay such fears- the trick is to find a waxy liner that blends easily. Start from the Cupid's bow, working outwards, applying colour right on the lip-line. Next line the bottom lip before using the pencil to colour in the flesh of the lips for extra intensity as well as longevity. As gloss attracts light, effectively making a surface area look larger than it actually is, apply a red gloss to the entire area of the lips, using a lip brush. The trick to getting the shade of red right is to understand whether you have warm or cool undertones. The majority of Irish women have cooler undertones and should therefore look for a blue- based red.

. "A common mistake when choosing a shade while standing at the beauty counter is testing the colours on the back of your hand. Always use the pads of your fingers; these are a much better indication of how the colour will look on your lips.
. Remember, this is an attention-grabbing look. Preparation is key to avoid stepping on the wrong side of the glamour-puss/tramp line so buff and balm the lips before applying any colour. Use an old toothbrush to get rid of any flakes of skin. This will also make your lips naturally a bit plumper and redder. Wipe off any balm to stop your lipstick sliding straight off

Model 2:- Kristi
Although blonde haired, Kristi has a much more sallow complexion and her skin tone would be similar to many brunettes.
The Look: subtle and pouting- plumper lips and an intensification of natural hues in the lips.
Possible Areas for Discussion: priming, plumping (old vasco- stimulating V new products eg containing hyaluronic acid), natural lip tone (red V pink)
Inspiration: Scarlett Johansson, Drew Barrymore
L'Oreal Lip Plumper
Smashbox O Gloss
The past few years has seen an influx of lip plumping products, such as Lip Venom that can either be used alone or can be mixed with glosses to make the lips look plumper. Many of these so called plumpers contain ingredients, such as chilli or menthol to aggravate the sensitive lip area, causing an increase in blood flow, which makes the lips look temporarily larger and redder. The problem is they cause an unpleasant sensation- not only for the wearer, but also for anybody lucky enough to get a kiss. A new generation of lip plumpers are now being launched that contain gentler ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, which works by binding moisture to it.

For a more subtle, pouty look, prime and plump the lips with a product, such as L'Oreal Lip Primer and Plumper. Not only does this contain plumping ingredients, but it also primes the lips for lipstick or gloss- not only making the product last longer, but also filling in any line lines on the lips, into which the lipstick can seep.
Once the lips have been primed, it is time to add a touch of colour. Newly launched on the market, Smashbox O Gloss is a clear gloss that works with the natural hue in the lip to intensify the colour- making naturally red- based lips redder and pink lips pinker. Leaves a subtle hint of colour with a touch of gloss for oh- so- kissable Valentines lips.

. Blend a small amount of lightweight concealer around the mouth to heighten contrast and enable you to get a really polished look. Lip liner is essential with red lipstick. It helps to seal the colour and prevent the ultimate red lipstick faux pas: bleeding. Liner also acts as great base for lipstick, so use it all over the lips. Try and use the same shade as the lipstick so it doesn't alter the finished look, most brands sell corresponding shades.

Model 3 Faith:-
Dark & mysterious, Faith has beautiful dark skin.
The Look: Deep red with a matt finish- the colour sealed for kissing.
Possible areas to be discussed: finish (gloss or matt), shades (warm or cool), bleeding, feathering and transferral of colour.
Inspiration: Rhianna, Oprah, Beyonce
Opera Lipstick No 12
Elizabeth Arden Lip Fix
As Faith is blessed with naturally ample, lush lips that are beautifully shaped, she can afford to use the deepest of reds with a matt finish, which is becoming more and more fashionable, replacing the gloss finish that we have been seeing over the past few seasons. Unlike 90% of the Irish population, Faith has naturally warm undertones and therefore needs a warm red. Warm reds are usually more tomatoey than cooler reds that often have a touch of pink. True reds, as we see them in the tube, are usually warm. The very simplest way of applying a red lipstick is to use a highly pigmented lipstick, applying without liner (which can be tricky), using a lip brush. Look for a brush that has a small, firm cat tongued shaped head. Never apply straight from the tube, as the finish will be very bad. Anchoring the little finger of the applying hand to the chin to keep shaking at bay, start at the Cupids bow, working out towards the outer corners of the lips. Apply to the outline of the lower lip before filling in the flesh of the lips. Blot with tissue paper before applying a second coat. Blot again for a matt finish. Seal in colour with a lip sealer, such as Elizabeth Arden Lip Fix to avoid feathering, bleeding and most importantly, transferring the colour to your partner.

. When applying reds always use a lip brush. It gives you much more control over where, and how much colour, you are putting on. Don't be tempted to whack it on straight from the stick, it'll end in disaster. Red pigment is very strong and doesn't easily come off surrounding skin; you run the risk of looking like you've had an encounter with some particularly brutal stubble - and not in a good way. Work up colour gradually. Kiss a tissue to remove access before adding another layer and the pigment will last a lot longer.
. Don't be tempted to match red lipstick to your red dress/ handbag/ necklace. If you're wearing red, it's probably best to steer clear of red lipstick but if you have to, wearing different but complimentary shades of red is a much more modern approach.

Tips on Treating Beard Rash!!!!
Following our tips above, after all that kissing, there is a chance you might end up suffering from beard rash. Beard rash occurs when the rough bristles aggravate the soft delicate skin around the mouth. Get your man to shave well and make sure he avoids aftershave applied to the face. Should you get a rash there are a number of things you can do to your skin to treat it. I love to use Elizabeth Arden's Eight Hour Cream to bathe the area in moisture. It has anti- septic properties to help soothe the area. Apply a thick mask to the area and allow to penetrate. After a half an hour or so get a stiff towel and using small, gentle circular motions rub the area to detach any dry skin or flakes. Blot area using a tissue, leaving a residue of product. The area will be red, but settle in a few hours. Apply the cream to the area that night, avoiding perfumed products and make- up if at all possible. If you have to ware make up go for a yellow based foundation which will counteract the ruddiness of the skin. The skin should be back to normal the following morning. Alternatively, buy him a present of a professional wet shave for his Valentine's Day Present.

1. Miss Sporty Lip Liner, €3.65, pharmacies nationwide
2. Christian Breton Lip Gloss, €14.95, Salons nationwide
3. L'Oreal Collagen Filler, €20.99, Pharmacies nationwide
4. Smashbox O Gloss, €25.00, Department stores nationwide
5. Elizabeth Arden Lip Fix, €22.50, Department stores nationwide
6. Opera Lipstick, €8, Salons nationwide