Soft - Goth Make-up trend with Donna Fitzpatrick
Wednesday, 3 September 2008
Hot from the catwalks of Milan, Paris and New York, we check out the latest in make-up trends. Today we look at "Soft - Goth" for any age. Having looked at this look as a fashion trend yesterday, today we look at the make-up side of this emerging trend.
Donna Fitzpatrick- Gets in touch with her dark side.
Donna Fitzpatrick MBA, MA, B.Sc. (Trinity College Dublin) CIBTAC
Creative and dynamic, Donna has amassed almost two decade's experience in the international cosmetics arena, where she experienced both the creative and business side of the industry.
Donna has trained as a make- up artist in New York, London and Milan. She built her reputation in New York where she worked as a chief make- up artist for Laura Mercier for the tri- state area, working on seasonal looks and various special events and promotions. She was also on the creative team of Estée Lauder New York, where she trained the national trainers and make- up artists of one of the largest make- up houses in the world.
While in New York, she worked alongside the world masters including François Nars (launching his brand at Saks 5th Avenue), Laura Mercier (at Laura Mercier launches and promotions) and Bobbi Brown (at various couture shows), indeed even being personally trained by Laura Mercier and François Nars.
She has acquired vast experience as a runway make- up artist and her list of famous cosmetic conquests include supermodel Tyra Banks and many other well- known models at New York couture shows, such as Donna Karen, Dana Buckman and Isaac Mizarhi. Donna played a key part in launching Nars Cosmetics in Saks of 5th Avenue and also the global launch of Estée Lauder's Pleasures for Men.
Upon returning to Ireland she took residency as manager of Bobbi Brown in Brown Thomas. She has done the make- up for numerous magazine covers, including Rosanna Davison, Glenda Gilson, Kathryn Thomas, Fran Gosgrave, Ryan Tubridy, Craig Doyle and a host of other Irish models, celebrities, TV presenters and actresses. She has been a beauty broadcaster with a regular slot on the Orla Barry Show and has appeared on the Afternoon Show and Off the Rails. She has written numerous hair and beauty features for newspapers, magazines and Internet sites, such as consumer magazine iBeauty, The Star Newspaper, Salon Ireland and Irish Beauty, weddingsonline.ie, fashion.ie and weddingsireland.ie. She is currently the beauty editor of Glow*.
All About Goth
From D&G to YSL, one of the hottest trends on the catwalk for the autumn/ winter season was the Soft Goth. 'When most people hear the words Goth, there is an immediate negative association with 'angsty' teenagers the Adams' Family, Elvira and Marilyn Manson,' says make- up artist Donna Fitzpatrick, 'but to be honest tone it down a bit and you have a very wearable look that particularly suits us cool skinned Irish women.'
With its feet firmly set in music, the Goth genre emerged in the early 80s from the punk era. Bands like the Cure, Joy Division, Sisters of Mercy and the Damned appeared on the scene, amassing huge followings of fans wearing black with ghostly white make- up, dark, smudgy eyes and blood red messy lips.
'As a nation we seem to love our tans, something that is reflected in the fact that we are the highest consumers of fake tan per capita in the world', says Donna, 'The Gothic look is the antithesis of a healthy summer glow, which is great because it allows us to celebrate our natural paleness.'
'The Gothic eye is messy, smudgy and dark- a look that most of us would run a mile from,' says Donna. 'However, tone down it down a bit, soften it and clean it up and you have a beautifully flattering smoky effect that looks great on the majority of women regardless of age. Add to this a deep berry lip and you have a full make- up look that is entirely wearable.'
Which of the designers used this particular look in their A/W '08 shows?
Jaeger London, YSL, Luella, Balenciaga were just a few of the designers going for the goth make up trend this season
The look has also followed through into advertising campaigns for design houses such as Pringle of Scotland, D&G, Giorgio Armani , Lanvin (ref Sept Vogue) and the Dior 'Poison' add with bond girl Eva green is a good reference for this look
Under this chat we take a quick look at some of yesterday's "Soft-Goth" fashion item with Georgina Heffernan
The Goth look has three main components; the pale skin, dark eyes and berry lips. We will therefore concentrate on one particular element on the three individual models, starting with the base on model one, the eyes on model two and the lips on model three, essentially 'building' up the look to its completed stage by model three.
1. Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer, €37 available department stores and pharmacies nationwide.
2. La Roche Posay Unifiance Satin Cream €23.95 available in pharmacies nationwide.
Primer and foundation to be applied on camera. Foundation on one side with no primer and with a primer on the other to see the difference.
The Goth Pale Base
The Goth look is built upon a pale base with heavily pigmented make- up to give good coverage. To make it wearable, attention needs to be paid to texture and shade.
Step One- Primer
The last few years has seen a huge flurry of make- up primers being launched onto the market. There is much debate whether make- up primers actually have a significant purpose or are just an unnecessary step in the make- up process, over- complicating matters, designed to do little more than make the make- up houses more money. Well, the argument stops here! Primer is a necessary step in the make- up regime that can make a big difference to the application, appearance and staying power of foundation. Either a serum, gel or light cream, a primer is applied sparingly over moisturiser, sealing in the moisturiser and providing a smooth surface for foundation. It evens out imperfections in the skin, such as fine lines, large pores and blemishes, making the surface much smoother for foundation. Primers also create a barrier between the skin and any product applied, preventing products being absorbed into the skin, allowing for greater staying power throughout the day.
Step two- Foundation
As the name would suggest, foundation forms the very basis of any make- up application. Yet so many women just can't get it right! There are three important factors to consider when shopping for a foundation: shade, consistency and pigment. Shade is perhaps the most difficult to get right. Most foundations are either warm (yellow- based) or cool (blue- based), which means it is vital for every woman to understand her natural skin undertones. When it comes to consistency, there are so many variations on the market now to choose from. Mousses, sticks, liquids, creams, sprays, powder, mineral- the list of possibilities is becoming almost endless. How heavy or light a foundation is depends on the amount of pigment- the heavier the foundation the more pigment, the lighter the less. The level of pigment in a foundation will depend on the level of coverage required. The Goth look requires a lot of coverage, so the foundation needs to be highly pigmented.
1. MAC Kohl in Smoulder €14 available Brown Thomas and Dublin Airport.
2. Armani Python Palette €85 available Brown Thomas and Dublin Airport.
Liner and powder to be applied to one eye on camera- other eye already done
The Goth Smoky Eye
More smoky than smudged, sexy rather than scary, the soft Goth eye reigned supreme on the Catwalks this season.
Step One- Liner
The Goth smoky eye can be toned down to be made more wearable. Perhaps the most coveted look, the smoky eye looks great on most Irish women. However, it can be very tricky to master and looks awful if done incorrectly. For easy, peasy smoky eyes, ditch unforgiving black or grey shadows in favour of a blendable pencil, which means mistakes are easy to blend away. Using a black kohl with plenty of slip, like MAC Smoulder, apply liner to the upper lashes. Take a small, cat tongued brush and blend the liner up over the eyelids into the sockets. Apply more liner as necessary.
Step 2- Shadow
For extra intensity and to set the liner, apply a black or dark gray shadow over the liner. Blend with a deer- hoofed brush through the crease, diffusing and softening the line. Apply under the eye as well. Younger girls can go for thicker lines, which will make the look far more Goth, but older ladies should avoid applying dark shades under the eye as this draws the attention to one of the first places to show lines and wrinkles.
Model to have base and eyes completed.
1. Miss Sporty redwine lipliner, €2.95, available pharmacies nationwide
2. Rimmell Bordeax, €6.25, available pharmacies nationwide
Lips filled in with liner on camera and a lipstick applied
The Goth Lip
Traditional Goth make- up involves either a blood red or berry shade of lipstick applied quite messily to the mouth area. Red can be a tricky shade for many women and the correct shade will greatly depend on whether the woman has cool sin undertones or warm undertones. However, berry shades are highly wearable. Forget that messy, snogged- off look, this autumn's lips are well defined and perfectly applied. To get the look, start with a liner, before filling in with a slick of lippy.
Step one- Liner
Recently lip liner has become such a contentious beauty issue with make- up artists and beauty experts battling to and fro arguing the merits and drawbacks of the humble pencil with some arguing that lip liner is old fashioned and antiquated while others counter- argue that it is a beauty stable necessary for creating clean lines and definition. For the Goth look, a liner is crucial. Always apply darker shades with great care, starting from the Cupid's bow working out towards the outer corners. Apply liner under lipstick or gloss for extra longevity.
Step two- Lipstick
Goth lips are either red or berry. Red is traditionally the most popular shade of lipstick chosen by Irish women. Fantastically glamorous, red can paint the perfect pout..as long as the correct shade has been chosen. When it comes to red lips, there is a shade to suit everyone. As most of us Irish women are naturally pale with cool skin undertones, we should look for a blue- based red like Make- up Forever's Blue- Red. For darker skin tones with warmer undertones look for a warm red, which will be more 'tomatoey' than cooler reds. Using a liner one shade deeper than the lipstick, outline the lips drawing outwards from the cupids bow. Colour in lips before applying the lipstick with a lip brush. Blot and reapply for extra longevity. If in doubt when choosing a shade of red, opt for more wearable berry shades, which suit the majority of Irish skin tones.
1. Smashbox Primer, €37, available nationwide.
2. La Roche Posay Unifiance Satin Cream, €23.95, available pharmacies nationwide.
3. MAC Kohl in Smoulder, €14, available Brown Thomas and Dublin Airport.
4. Armani Python Palette, €85, available Brown Thomas and Dublin Airport.
5. Rimmell Bordeax, €6.25, available pharmacies nationwide.
6. Miss Sporty redwine lipliner, €2.95, available pharmacies nationwide.