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Flawless Foundation!

Tuesday, 7 March 2006


Today there is a foundation masterclass, covering all the expert advice on how to create a flawless look. Donna Fitzpatrick, make-up artist is going to talk to us about the pros and cons of powder, cream and liquid foundation as well as the tones of foundation.

Donna believes there are four steps to the perfect foundation.
. Primer
. Base or Foundation
. Concealer
. Powder

To create a flawless face, firstly, prime the skin. Primers are not just expensive gimmicks, but will act as a perfect base, providing a thin veil over which the foundation will glide, preventing the product from seeping into the pores. The base will also last longer and look more natural and luminescent. A tiny amount of primer is applied in a similar manner to moisturiser, replacing the moisturiser unless the skin is very dry.
The Primers
No 7 - High Lights Illuminator Lotion - €13.50- Available Boots & Chemists Nationwide
Benefit- Dr Feelgood- €30- Available Brown Thomas & Clerys

Choosing the correct foundation is very often a huge problem for many women. Colour, consistency and application techniques are the main factors to be considered.

The Colour
For the average Irish woman, the problem with foundation lies in wanting to be darker than she really is, trying to create a tanned look. The purpose of foundation is to even out the skin tone and disguise minor flaws and blemishes. Use a foundation that perfectly matches the natural skin tone. A patch test should be performed along the woman's jaw line, because the colour in the bottle is deceptive as it often changes when it reacts to the acid in the skin. The perfect foundation should melt into the skin. If the colour is right and the application seamless, there will be no tell- tale signs that the woman is wearing foundation. Foundation Consistency
Cream, liquid, mousse, cake, pan sticks and gels are all on the market. You can't really go wrong with a liquid. Cream, cake or pan sticks are okay for very blemished skins. However they if you have clear skin you may look like you are wearing too much make up and it can also seep into lines and wrinkles on older more mature skins. Gels and mousse are not as readily available as of yet. Liquid works well on most skin types and most ages. It can be mixed with a little primer for a sheerer look or applied in layers under concealer for extra coverage.
Foundation Application
Perfect looking foundation relies more on the application than the product. Depending on the coverage required, there are three methods of foundation application. The first is finger, the second sponge and the third is with a brush.  Whichever way you decide, start by applying a dollop of foundation, about the size of a fifty-cent piece to the back of the hand. Allow to rest for a few seconds, as the heat of the body will help activate some of the dormant ingredients.
Sponge Application
Using a small dense, triangular foundation application sponge lightly moistened in water; soak up some product with the fine tapered end. Starting at the center point of the face; the nose, press the sponge against the skin gently spreading the product outwards. Blend in an outwards motion, leaving a half-inch perimeter around the circumference of the face. If extra coverage is required, allow the skin to rest before building up a second layer. Include the eyelids and lips in this wash of foundation. Avoid the eye area if there are any fine lines or wrinkles as foundation can seep in acting as a highlighter.
Brush Application
Using a polyester foundation brush, such as faux's Foundation Brush, pick up some product. Starting at the forehead, brush product downwards brushing the tiny downy hairs all over the face flat against the skin. This helps create the dewy finish.

The Foundations
Rimmell -Recover anti ageing, firming foundation- €6.70- Available Boots & Chemists Nationwide (fluid foundation for mature skins)
Maybeline - Dream Matte Mousse- €9.99- Available Boots, Tesco (mousse for youthful problematic skins)
Shiseido - Stick Foundation- €34 - available Nation Wide.
Christian Breton- €34- fluid foundation for all ages and skin types- Available in Salons nationwide.
Faux foundation brush- €24- Available in Salons nationwide

This is where it can become a little daunting for so many women, as good concealer may camouflage or reflect, but bad concealer will definitely highlight. It is an exact science, but is worth the effort as the results can be astounding. There are many products on the market claiming to be concealers, which act in various, often-opposing ways and should not be confused or used interchangeably. There are fantastic products used to counteract dark shadows under the eyes, which work by reflecting and diffusing light. Yves Saint Laurent's Touche Éclat is a well- known example of such a product. It works perfectly well to disguise shadows, but when used to camouflage spots and blemishes, these products have a tendency to highlight rather than disguise. Effective products for camouflaging should be hyper- pigmented, matt products, which blend easily over the skin making the blemish disappear. So many ladies want to disguise their own natural ageing process around the eyes and the absolute top tip is to apply either a hyper-pigmentated camouflaging cream or a light reflector in a narrow one inch C shape on the skin surrounding the inner corner of the eyes. This is best applied with a fine polyester brush. Apply the product to the corner of the eye and blend outwards. The eyes will appear to have popped open and look much younger and fresher. Any product applied directly under the eye will eventually melt into the lines and wrinkles, effectively highlighting what you were trying to disguise in the first place.

The Concealers
Giorgio Armani- Re- touch concealer- €24 - Brown Thomas (suitable for eye area)
YSL- Touche Eclat- €28- Available Department Stores Nationwide (suitable for eye area)
Veil Remedial Concealer- €20- Available Salons Nationwide- (a palette suitable for scars, spots, hyper pigmentation, port wine stains etc)
Faux concealer brush- €19- Available Salons Nationwide

Powder is best applied with a puff in a 'press and roll' motion. Sprinkle some powder onto some clean tissue paper. Using the puff, mop up some product and press lightly onto the face and hold for a few seconds before gently removing the fingers in a rolling motion. Apply to all of the face paying particular attention the oilier T- zone of the forehead, nose and chin. Brush over the face with a large natural- bristled brush to remove any excess product. The powder will help set the foundation and concealer. Use pearlised light reflective powder for clear youthful skins, but stick to matt powder for older or problematic skins as the pearly products will highlight any fine lines, blemishes or imperfections. Loose powder is far more versatile than pressed and tends to be more finely milled. Translucent is the best shade, as it will not interfere with the shade of foundation.

The Powders
Laura Mercier- loose translucent powder- €38- Available Brown Thomas .
Faux Mongolian Goat Brush- €39- Available Salons Nationwide.