Córdoba

Where do you start when you visit Córdoba? Do you wander about the ancient walls, which date back to when the city was an important player in the Roman Empire? Stroll around the old town, where old Islamic influences are still very evident, or pay a visit to the ancient synagogue, stopping off to pay respect at the statue of the great Jewish philosopher Maimonides?

With only a day to explore what was once the busiest city in Europe, I decided to start with a visit to Córdoba's most stunning landmark.

The Mezquita mosque was built on the grounds of an old Christian Visigothic Church near the end of the eighth century and dominates the centre of the old town in Córdoba.

To walk around such a building was both a novel and fascinating experience. It was my first visit to a mosque and even though it is now officially a Catholic cathedral, the structure and aesthetics remain largely unchanged from the original design and no matter what your religious persuasion, if any at all, a saunter around the columned interior will match most of the best tourist attractions in Europe.

To say the Mezquita remains unchanged in design is, by and large, true. There is just one little addition that sort of makes it probably the most unique and interesting building that I have ever traipsed through.

After the Muslims moved on from Córdoba and the Christians took control of the town, a new place of worship was high on the agenda.

In most instances, the mosque would have been demolished and replaced, but such was its magnitude that the Christians decided to leave the structure and build a cathedral inside.

So now, in the middle of one of the largest mosques in the world, sits a cathedral that is as pretty and decorative as any of the great cathedrals of Europe, albeit without the small matter of external walls.

Whether they should be reprimanded for ruining a beautiful mosque or commended for not knocking it down altogether is a matter of opinion.

Either way, it had to be one of the greatest architectural challenges of its time and to see it seamlessly moulded together is impressive in itself. Seeing is believing is probably the best way to describe it - well worth the hour train ride from the bright lights and cheap drink of the Costa Del Sol.

As with most of these UNESCO Cultural cities, there tends to be a lot to see and to take in. So after a traditional local lunch, my next port of call was a visit to the ancient palatine city of Medina Azahara.

The city was built mid-10th century by caliph Abd ar-Rahman III of Córdoba to establish Caliphate as a powerful city. It took 10,000 men to build the city with tons of marble, tiles and precious metal and it flourished for a meagre 80 years before it was ransacked by the Berbers and destroyed.

The site of the city was only rediscovered at the turn of the 20th century and it has been an archaeological work in progress ever since.

Only 10% of the total area has been excavated and restored but a stroll around the ancient streets and gardens takes you back in time and the visitors centre fills in the gaps to bring you back to a truly great city.

Back in Córdoba's old town, a guided tour of the streets and buildings is the best way to get up to speed with the City of Three Cultures - so called due to the understanding that allowed Jews, Moors and Christians to live together in harmony.

The history is dotted throughout the city and the small synagogue keeps the Jewish link as does the statue of Maimonides, while a visit to Córdoba is never complete without a visit to a courtyard or two. The local fascination may be lost on out-of-towners like myself but they are certainly pretty to look at and a great place to escape the mid-summer temperatures that regularly top the 40 degree mark.

The sun was setting as I dined on the rooftop terrace of Tavern Casa Rubio Tapas Bar and it was long dark before I finished - they certainly like their food in these parts.

The evening is the ideal time for taking a stroll down to the river across the Roman Bridge and enjoying the panoramic and illuminated views of the old town with the majestic Mezquita dominating the night-time skyline.

Getting to Córdoba
Córdoba is located in the region of Andalusia and is less than an hour by train to both Malaga and Seville, and less than two hours from Madrid. It was named a World Heritage City in 1984 and is in contention to become the European City of Culture in 2016.

Places to Visit
Hamman: After a busy day or two wandering the old stone streets of Córdoba, a visit to the Hamman (Arab Baths) will soothe the soul and send you back to the hotel floating on air. On entering, you receive a number and are sent into the bathing area where you can relax in any of the steam rooms or different temperature baths. When your number is called, a masseuse is waiting poolside, before finishing your visit with a cup or two of herbal tea.

Calle de las Flores: One of the prettiest and most peaceful streets in Córdoba, Calle de las Flores is a narrow, winding street in the heart of Juderia. The street's balconies are full of overhanging flowers and potted plants adorn the walls throughout. The small square at the end of the street boast great views of the Mezquita.

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos: This former Roman fortress and residence of the Christian kings was where the discovery of America was planned. The adjoining gardens are remarkably fruitful for such a hot climate and are full of orange and lemon trees, palm trees, ponds and fountains.

Antigo Hospital del Cardenal Salazar y Capilla de San Bartolomé: This old building now houses the Faculty of Philosophy and is one of the best examples of Córdoban Baroque. The small chapel of San Bartolomé is a fine example of traditional Mudéjar architecture.

Córdoba Outdoor Theatre: The town boasts a beautiful outdoor theatre, which is perfect for the city's climate. The annual guitar festival brings some of the world's finest musicians to Córdoba every July.

Roman Temple Located next to the Town Hall: The temple dates back to the first century AD. All that remains now are the columns that surround the porticoed square, while some of the original elements are housed in the archaeological museum and dotted around the city.

Córdoban Gastronomy
As you will discover, a visit to Córdoba will be perfectly complemented by some tasty traditional dishes from the region. Salmorejo is a tomato paste served everywhere as a starter, the Boquerones en Vinagre (pickled whitebait) and battered aubergine with honey are two of the tastiest tapas that I sampled - and there were many - while the Bull's Tail and fried pork are also to be recommended. The area is also renowned for its olive oil if there is room in the suitcase for a bottle or two.

Restaurant Almudaina, Tavern Casa Rubio Tapas Bar and Restaurant el Churrasco are three of the best restaurants in the old town, all serving traditional Córdoban cuisine.

Where to Stay
I stayed at the recently refurbished Hotel Las Casas de la Juderia, less than a two-minute walk to the Mezquita in the centre of the old town. The hotel has a very traditional style and the rooms remain very cool despite the baking temperatures mid-summer. A stay here will definitely help to imagine what the city was like back in its glory days.

For more information about Córdoba visit: www.turismodeCórdoba.org or www.spain.info.

Ed Leahy

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