Paris - Rugby Special

It was a great tale of the Hundred Years' War, the 17-year-old king and beheaded saints picking up their heads and walking for miles before collapsing. But it was cold. It was so, so very cold.

February in Paris and the snow was falling in the square outside the Basilica of St Denis. And while the temperature outside was struggling to stay above freezing, the air inside this magnificent gothic construction with its expansive interior and very high roof was definitely in the minus region of the Celsius scale.

Already half-an-hour inside and the tour seemed like it was going to run for a while yet, so positioning myself in the tour guide's blind spot, I edged backwards, out the heavy, wooden door and back across the square to the welcoming warmth of the Khedive restaurant.

The thawing process triggered the metamorphosis from tourist mode to match-day mode, conveniently coinciding with the start of the Wales versus Scotland game - the undercard to the 'Clash of the Titans' that was taking place down the road in a few hours' time.

As Scotland tore into Wales, I did likewise with my very hearty veal stew followed by a tasty tarte tatin. By the time I had polished off my second brandy and port of the afternoon, it was time to hit the road, in the direction of that place where Thierry Henry did that thing a few months back.

The Stade de France, like the Basilica of St Denis, is located north of the city centre on the periphery of the metro zone; so relatively easy to find, even for the fan less travelled.

Built for the 1998 FIFA World Cup, the stadium holds more than 80,000 and is the only venue to have hosted both the football and rugby World Cup finals.

Despite being relatively new, however, the Stade de France design appears dated. Atmosphere is lacking somewhat as the stadium facilitates athletics meetings, which means that the crowd are well back from the action and, as a result, less involved in the occasion.

And the roof is separate from the stands, allowing the noise to drift out and, more importantly, on cold days, letting the biting winter wind whistle through the arena.

The atmosphere outside the ground, however, was fantastic as both sets of supporters mingled freely, enjoying the beer and hot food that was on offer while also keeping an eye on the closing stages of the miracle that saw Wales come back to beat the Scots.

My seat was high up at the halfway line, and while there were many Irish inside, they appeared to be spread out around the place instead of having a designated end. A ploy perhaps to stem the travelling supporters' influence on what was being billed as the Six Nations Championship decider.

The anthems were indicative of what was to follow with 'the Marseillaise' spanking 'Ireland's Call' in terms of delivery, decibels and desired effect.

If I was to put a figure on it, I'd say 33-10 would be about right.

However, what happens in les banlieues (the suburbs) often goes unnoticed in the centre of Paris and that tradition thankfully continued as a few Saturday night scoops soon consigned the rugby to the memory's left bank.

Maybe Leinster or Munster or both will return to rectify the result when the Heineken Cup final takes place in Paris at the same venue in May.

Combining city breaks with sporting events can be a great way of seeing new places, although the airlines are usually one step ahead, with prices rocketing on the days surrounding the fixture in question.

One way of getting around the exorbitant pricing is to travel a couple of days earlier and stay on an extra day, giving you plenty of time to see the sights with the extra hotel costs compensated by the money you save on the flights.

No matter how many times you travel to the City of Lights, you will never get tired of the sights, whether you stumble across the excellent views of the Eiffel Tower while taking a coffee break on the top-floor café of the Galleries Lafayette or you catch a glimpse of the Arc de Triomphe out of the corner of your eye as you negotiate your way across the eight or so busy lanes of the Champs-Élysées.

Read about Ed Leahy's previous trip to Paris.

Les Puces de Saint-Ouen is one attraction that is often overlooked when visiting Paris. Les Puces (the fleas) as it is locally known is the most famous flea market in France and is home to some world-renowned antique and art dealers.

The market dates back to the late 19th century and is located on the outskirts of the city at the Porte de Clignancourt metro station. It is well worth a wander, even if you're not in the buying mood. And if you do see something you fancy, there are reputable agents who will have the items shipped home for you.

The more expensive stalls/shops are located in the Marché du Biron and if you have 20 or 30 grand to spare, you might get your hands on an original Toulouse-Lautrec poster, but make sure to haggle - you might save a few euro.

The famous jazz musician Django Reinhardt used to perform regularly at the small venues of the market, as did Édith Piaf, who sang at the Louisette Café.

Sitting in the shadows of the Eiffel Tower is one of the newer attractions in Paris, the Musée du quai Branly, which opened in 2006 and houses a wide range of indigenous art from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. The hand-carved wooden totem poles are particularly impressive as are the Aboriginal Australian paintings.

And if you have a few hours to spare, why not treat yourself to a gastronomic walk around the streets of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

The world famous bakery Poilâne is located here in the sixth district and the aromas in the shop are bettered only by the actual taste of the freshly baked bread or Punitions (shortbread cookies) that are being produced in the wood-fired ovens behind the counter.

And St Germaine-des-Prés is home to some of the best chocolate makers in the world including Patrick Roger and Pierre Hermé who are household names throughout France.

Chocolate sculptures are a big favourite in these parts, but if you're tempted, make sure you get it delivered because I don't fancy your chances of getting it through the checks at Charles de Gaulle airport on your way home.

Rugby? What rugby?

Places to Eat
Chez Clement: A chain of Brasserie-style restaurants serving quality French food at very reasonable prices. There are several around Paris including Montparnasse and the Champs-Elysées. Try the duck confit or the gratin.
www.chezclement.com

The Auberge Saint Roch: A fantastic restaurant close to the Opera. The décor is low-key and not typically French but the food and service are fantastic. A very informal atmosphere, where a blackboard is passed around the table instead of menus. Veal, steak, it's all good in here. www.auberge-saint-roch.com.

Les Ombres: A classy restaurant with stunning views that complement the gastronomic delights on offer, Les Ombres is located on the sixth floor of the Musée du quai Branly complex. The Eiffel Tower looms large over the restaurant just outside the glass-walled establishment, making for some of the best views in Paris. The Seine river rolls past on the other side of the restaurant with views all the way up to the Sacre Coeur, north of the city. The glass doors slide open in the summer, making it the perfect place for either lunch or dinner.
www.lesombres-restaurant.com.

La Fermette Marbeuf: Located just off the Champs-Elysées, this traditional French restaurant is a feast for the senses. It has a great menu with house specials changing daily - succulent duck dishes or Steak Tartar for the adventurous. The Mirabelle tart was the perfect finish to the night. www.fermettemarbeuf.com.

Places to Stay
Le Littré, Montparnasse: The hotel is located on the famous Left Bank of Paris, near Saint Germain-des-Prés and within the famous Montparnasse district, the new area for fashion designers and luxury shops. The hotel is traditional French with large bedrooms throughout. www.hotellittreparis.com.

Marriott Rive Gauche: A monster of a hotel aimed primarily at business conferences, this Left Bank hotel is in a great location and it has recently been renovated with a very trendy retro design. The hotel rooms all boast king-size beds with their six-pillow guarantee making for a very comfortable stay. The business aspect ensures that all your gadgets will work and the views from the upper floors (18 floors) are some of the best in Paris. There is also a clean, modern gym available to all residents.
www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/parst-paris-marriott-rive-gauche-hotel-and-conference-center.

Fouquet's Barrière: One of the most famous names in Parisian dining now has a hotel to match. This exquisite hotel is the result of a monster renovation in five buildings adjoining the famous Le Fouquet's restaurant on the Champs-Elysées. The rates are at the higher end but this is one stay that you won't forget in a hurry. Butlers are available for guests and there is a beautiful indoor swimming pool and health spa. Dining options are plentiful with a roof-garden and terrace the perfect place to while away a summer's evening. Even if you're not staying, it's worth paying a visit for some afternoon tea or a top-class dinner. A very popular hang-out for many of France's top celebrities.
www.fouquets-barriere.com.

Ed Leahy

Ed Leahy travelled to Paris as a guest of Air France and the France Tourism Office, A Tout France.

For more information about France, go to: www.franceguide.com.

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