WINTER FOOD: 21ST JANUARY

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This week on Winter Food, we talk to Declan Ryan, chef and owner of Arbutus Breads in Cork and to chef and food historian Regina Sexton.

And Aoife Nic Cormaic talks to staff and students at the  National Bakery School in Kevin Street DIT in Dublin.

RECIPES
Derek O'Brien and Eugene Kane from the National Bakery School in Kevin Street DIT in Dublin kindly gave us some of the recipes being used by the students on the day of our visit.  This particular recipe was adapted for a domestic sized oven by Derek O'Brien.

TRADITIONAL PAN BREAD- WHITE
1000g Bakers Flour (also sold as Strong Flour in the shops)
20g Salt
20g Butter
35g Yeast(fresh)
580g Water

This recipe will yield 1650g of dough - sufficient to make 3 x 550g or 2 x
825g loaves.

NOTE
(1) The butter may be replaced with Olive Oil - weight for weight.
(2) Only use FRESH YEAST - dried yeast contains Ascorbic Acid and is not suitable for this bread.
Fresh yeast may be purchased from your local baker, from a supermarket bakery, the Yeast Company (a small shop near College Green in Dublin), and if all else fails you are welcome to call into the National Bakery School, DIT, Kevin Street, Dublin - we will be happy to supply you with a small quantity of fresh yeast to get you started.

PREPARATION
Before you commence make sure you have a weighing scales, a knife, a large bowl, baking shapes (1lb or 2lb), a plastic bag, a mixing spoon and all the ingredients.

MIXING MACHING
If you have a mixing machine it might be advisable to mix the dough in smaller quantities to avoid over stressing the motor and causing damage.

DOUGH MAKING by hand
(1) Weigh the flour and place in the bowl. Weigh the salt and sift over the flour. Use the spoon to thoroughly mix the salt through the flour
(2) Using both hands rub the butter through the flour. (if you decide to use Olive Oil then add it with the water).
(3) Weigh the water (do not measure it as most measuring jugs are
undependable). The water should be at blood temperature. Test it with your fingers. If it feels cold then it is too cold. If it feels warm then it is too warm.
(4) Disperse the yeast in the water - use a whisk, and add the water / yeast mixture to the flour in the bowl. (also, if you are using oil add it at this stage)

DOUGH MIXING
Commence mixing the dough with your hands. You may find it useful to place the mixing bowl in the sink to do this job to avoid flour dust on the table top and floor. When the dough has begun to form and most of the flour is wetted take it out of the bowl and commence kneading it with both hands. This task may be performed on the table top - but the sink draining board is also a good surface. This is the hard bit - knead the dough by
holding it with one hand and rubbing and stretching it with the other against the working surface. This should take about 10 minutes. The purpose of this operation is to form and develop the gluten.

FERMENTATION
Place the mixed and kneaded dough back in the bowl. Cover it with the plastic bag - or place the entire bowl in the bag if it is large enough.
Set aside in a warm place. The kitchen is suitable unless it is
particularly cold. Fermentation will take 60 minutes. During this time the dough will expand and at least double in size. After 45 minutes into this process remove the dough from the bowl and knead it again for 2 or 3 minutes. This is known as the knock back stage and you will notice that the physical characteristics of the dough will have changed. It will feel soft and smooth. Return the dough to the bowl for the final 15 minutes and keep covered.

SHAPING THE DOUGH
Weigh the dough into 3 x 550g or 2 x 825g pieces. Place a dough piece on the work surface and cover it with both hands. Move both your hands together in a circular motion to form a rounded dough ball. Repeat for each dough piece. Set aside for 10 minutes - cover with the plastic bag.

PLACE IN THE BREAD PAN SHAPE
Oil the shape with olive oil or melted butter. Take each dough ball in turn and gently shape it into a cylindrical shape and place it in the baking pan shape. Very lightly dust each dough shape with flour - use a small sieve. Using a sharp knife (or blade) cut a shallow slot (not more than half inch deep) along the top of the dough - end to end.

PROOFING (dough rising in pan shape)
Return the baking shapes to the warm place and allow to rise. This should take about 50 minutes.

BAKING
The oven should be turned on at least 30 minutes prior to baking to ensure a solid heat. Place the pan shapes in the oven and bake for 30 - 35 minutes at a temperature of 210°C.

COOLING
When baked remove bread from shape (otherwise it will sweat and cause the bread to be soggy) and place the loaves on a cooling wire.

Congratulations - you have made real bread using natural fermentation -
enjoy.

CLODAGH MCKENNA'S IRISH SODA BREAD

1 Ib of wholemeal flour
1 Ib of white flour
11/2 teaspoons of bread soda
A pint of buttermilk.

Mix together very well - pop in a pre-heated oven at 220oC for approx. 20 minutes

CONTACTS

Declan Ryan's Arbutus Bread
021 4501113
arbutus@iol.ie
Arbutus Bread is available to buy at the English Market in Cork, Midleton Market, Bantry Market, Clonakilty Market, Kenmare Market and Macroom Market.

The National Bakery School, DIT, Kevin Street, Dublin 8.
§ Phone: +353 1 402 4566
§ E-mail: derek.obrien@dit.ie
§ Fax: +353 1 402 4999