Wexford Town chippers are different: they serve a local delicacy called the Wexford Rissole - a combination of old chips, old cooking oil, herbs and bread or batter.
People think they've been around since the dinosaurs but, Shane Dunphy, has discovered that they only arrived in the town, from Britain, after The Emergency.
They're the ideal Irish comfort food but there's a tragic tale in their history.
Although they're venerated, people aren't afraid to experiment - the latest creation is a 'haute cuisine' Wexford Rissole.
As for the 'breaded or battered'? You can't have both - you have to get off the fence and decide quickly.
(A short Irish radio documentary from RTE Radio, Ireland)
The Curious Ear is produced by Ronan Kelly email@example.com