By Margaret Ward in Beijing
Food is one of the great pleasures in Beijing - both regional cuisine from all over China and a terrific choice of other Asian and western food.
It's a long way from the sweet and sour at your local takeaway. In fact most Irish Chinese restaurants are a version of Cantonese food but there's so much more to explore.
FAVOURITES
DALI: A courtyard restaurant in one of Beijing's old hutongs (narrow alleyways), Dali specialises in spicy, but not numbing food from Yunnan in the south west. Fantastic fish, mushrooms and, of course, the famous 'Crossing the Bridge noodles'. Around €10 for a set menu. Also has western wines. Ask for a table outside in the centre of the old courtyard house.
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie 010 84041430
THREE GUIZHOU MEN: Sour and spicy food from the southern province of Guizhou served in a modern interior. Newly fashionable in Beijing and very popular with middle-class Chinese. Great ribs, fish, aubergine dishes and spicy mashed potato. The one at Gongti is close to other restaurants and bars.
8 Gongti Xilu, Sanlitun 010 6551 8517
THE BOOKWORM: If you are craving a steak with mashed potatoes (do you detect a running theme here?), an English menu, magazines and books, make your way to expat favourite the Bookworm in the nightlife area of Sanlitun. Western wines, good coffee and wi- fi as well as music and book events.
Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Sanlitun Tel 010 6586 9507
MATSUKO: A chain of very good and reasonably priced Japanese restaurants with all the usual dishes - tempura, teppanyaki, sushi and sashimi. Japanese and Korean food are both very popular among Beijingers.
2/f Jinglong Dasha, 225 Chaoyang Beilu Tel 010 6509 8999
DADONG ROAST DUCK: You can't leave Beijing without trying Peking duck - Beijing Kaoya - on its home turf. Dadong is reputed to be the best, and the least greasy. Crispy duck, pancakes, spring onions, cucumber, hoisin sauce. The first few pancakes are all wrapped expertly by the waitresses using chopsticks, then you can try for yourself - or use your hands. Also serves a wide variety of other Chinese food. Always packed, you may have to wait for a table, limited reservations.
1/2/F Nanxincang international plaza, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng district
STREET EATS
Beijingers love their snacks. Try:
Jiaozi and baozi- dumplings and steamed buns.
Jianbing - a kind of omelette wrapped in a pancake.
Yangrou chuan'r - lamb kebabs - if you can find them. Many vendors have been taken off the streets for the Olympics.
BARS
Beijing has a vibrant nightlife that tends to surprise visitors. It's expected that the police will keep a close eye on it during Olympics and enforce closing times, which never happens normally. There are a number of 'hubs', the expat area of Sanlitun, the rather more touristy and Chinese area of Houhai and the student area of Wudaokou.
The Stoneboat, Ritan Park
Laid back bar with an outdoor deck 'moored' on the pond in the southwest corner of Ritan Park.
Q Bar, on the roof of the Eastern Inn, southern end of Sanlitun Nanlu. Great cocktails, snacks and desserts on a roof terrace
No Name Bar, 3 Qianhai Dongyuan, Houhai
The original and still the best bar with a lakeview in Houhai. No sign.
Pass-by Bar, Nanluoguoxiang
The original bar in this boho - chic hutong.
Cheers, Tongli Studios
A dive bar in the Sanlitun area whose redeeming feature is the great Xinjiang band at the weekend, a kind of Muslim version of the Gypsy Kings.
Paddy O Shea's, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, opposite the Australian embassy, Chaoyang 010 6415 6389
If you absolutely must visit an Irish pub then at least go to one that's actually run by an Irishman. Former Dublin footballer Glen manages Paddy O'Shea's which even shows GAA at the weekend. Guinness on tap and also serves pub grub.
