Style Blog

Jan 25, 2012

Paris Men’s Fashion Week

from: RTE Fashion Blog

No sooner had we said “addio!” to Milan, we landed right back into menswear with the Paris shows. Paris is an epicentre of fashion and the home of the couturier. The city boasts showings from some of the top luxury labels in fashion -Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy and Lanvin.

It’s never certain to predict if trends will continue from one fashion capital to the next, but one startling trend was noticed within a week in both capitals. The brick-printed suits and separates that Moschino proudly walked down the catwalk with, turned up in Jean Paul Gaultier’s show earlier this week. Coincidence, or daylight robbery? We will let you argue amongst yourselves…

Click more to reveal what trends we saw, as well as run-downs and pictures for the major shows

 

A more credible discovery was that leather, velvet and jewel tones were carried forward into Paris and layering is going to be key but the idea is layering .

It seems that between Paris and Milan we can expect that A/W 2012 is going to be all about mixing and matching textures and prints. Yohji Yamamoto showcased intense layering with luxurious silks, large buttons and oversized collars and scarves while still maintaining his quite minimalist aesthetic, design-wise.

Another trend should be a mixture of colours as well. Not only can we expect jewel tones alongside a standard Autumnal palette, there are traces of loud reds, statement colour blocks and even some neon creeping in so it will be interesting to determine how high street shoppers and fashion followers will interperet the mis-matching.

Mugler: Feminine, leather and biker is key. Slight comparrison to last week’s Versace show at times.

Christian Lacroix: Check detail and sashes of print throughout. There’s a mod influence with biker jackets but then suddenly a flush of psychadelic prints and details incorporated.

3.1 Philip Lim: Models with kohl eyes showcase a healthy mix of fabrics, lots of contorted sweaters and really nice leather belts styled almost like sword holders, hanging perpendicular to the belt itself.

Issey Miyake: It was all about oversized joggers. Bright, ribbed jumpers started the show before neon blocks and layered prints and colour transitions built upon what it begun with.

Louis Vuitton: Quite a worldy influence to this collection. I see influences of the Tokyo businessman, the Parisien businessman, the London one and so forth. Sharp tailoring, safe colouring but very crisp attention to detail. The alpine/skiwearwas a welcome touch at the end.

Jean Paul Gaultier: Velvet, wool and fur combined to bring extreme layering to the forefront, lots of button detail was emphasised as well as  men’s skirts!

Yohji Yamamoto: Again, layering is coming to the forefront. Capes/shrugs were adorned on the models for the first few looks, before an array of fine materials combined.

Juun J: Oversized coats and tapered pants, as well as hooded polo necks. The finale of bubble suits was particularly unexpected.

Givenchy: Ricardo Tisci presented a red and black collection which almost turned tangerine. Male skirts had a huge emphasis, with black long johns underneath. Each model was adorned with a large septum ring of metal and feather. Leather and stars and stripes also featured.

Galliano: There was a distinct influence of the thirties and forties in this latest collection which begun with New York mobster, striped suits and fedoras and continued with a wash of military colours and styles, including helmets. Though the show also signalled hints of velvet, fur and glimmering embellishment.

Dior Homme: Kris Van Assche presented a simple and subtle collection which centered around hunter green. The lines were defined and clean-cut, though subtle details were present on collars and pockets. The silhouette was, of course, slim, as Dior always is. We particularly liked the above look with the hidden belt detail within the jacket as opposed to outside.

Raf Simons: knee-length shorts with oversized jackets played against woolen helmet caps. Blushing colours in gem tones dazzled – emerald, sapphire and light topaz to name a few. Jackets and coats were adorned at the back by colourful hairpieces.

Paul Smith : Collars were big for Smith this collection. The models wore neon coloured undershirts which sat under gauzed jumpers and peeked through on shirt cuffs. Navy, charcoal and black, all midnight type colours, worked against the subtle neons. Silks and select print had a look-in.

Lanvin: Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver presented a beautifully constructed collection, which was dark in tone with sprigs of red, cobalt blue and mustard. High-waisted trousers played with a flared bottom as well as large single-brested coats, some belted, some buttoned. Neoprene was inforced in certain looks to give a modern twist to the humble yet staple coat. Stripes, leather and casual boots gave the collection a more casual, rock’n'roll feel to it towards the end.

 

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