The Return of the Scarlet Woman

RTÉ.ie Fashion: Dita Von Teese is never seen without her red lippie
Dita Von Teese is never seen without her red lippie

Since the 1930s, economists have noted that when we start to feel the pinch and the spend, spend, spend has to end, we still manage to find money for the little luxuries whose morale-boosting effects far outweigh their relatively modest cost.

This phenomenon even has a name, the Lipstick Index - since sales of lipsticks have a habit of going up when the economy goes down.

It's a fact that when the future is wildly unpredictable, we romanticize the past. The cosmetics industry is no exception. Right now, the world of beauty is head over heels for all things retro. Hot starlets, such as Scarlett Johansson and Katy Perry, take their styling tips from bygone eras. Both are spurring on young girls the world over to ditch the fake tan and embrace a far more glamorous look,

Every decade has its retro fixation, but it's the Golden Age of Hollywood, in particular the 1940s and 1950s, that has really captured our imaginations during recent years. Not only do we have celebrities such as Dita von Teese, Gwen Stefani and Christina Aguilera who have based their whole fashion and beauty aesthetic on the period, but there are also youth subcultures of burlesque and rockabilly girls who emulate the looks of the era too.

And nothing quite captures retro chic quite like a slick of bold red lipstick.

"Red lipstick is the stiletto heel of make-up," says Terry Barber, director of make-up artistry at MAC. In other words, it's instant sexiness - a slick of glamour in a tube.

Back in the Fifties, the scarlet-mouthed Elizabeth Taylor wiped the floor with the Doris Day school of pretty pink-lipped blondes. She brought willful, smoldering sensuality to the screen, with an iconic glamour and a temperament to match. Now, red lips are taking over again. After a lull, in which the natural look was de rigueur, the luscious red pout is once again in favor

As make-up statements go, it doesn't get much more potent than red lipstick.

There is something wonderfully old-world glamour about a nude face with scarlet lips. The key to this look is to resist the temptation to doll up the eyes: just neutral eye shadow, groomed brows and a slick of mascara. Matt or dark shades of red are the most challenging, especially for older skins: go for something translucent.

"I don't confine red lipstick to skin tone," says Terry Barber at MAC. "A blue shade of red is more formal and grown up, whereas an orange red is a little bit more undone - and provides a good match for tousled and unkempt hair."

Beware of red lipsticks if your teeth are on the yellow side - some bluey reds can make the teeth appear less white. The only way to be sure you have the perfect shade is to take a friend to the store with you, or seek the advice of an in-store make-up artist before you buy.

When wearing red lips, pare down the rest of your face and keep it simple. Red lips on a nude face are a powerful statement on their own. Tone down any rosy blusher or heavy eyeliner to avoid the dreaded painted lady look.

Red looks good with monochrome clothes - think of the colour combinations of black, white and red. Avoid anything too obvious such as off-the-shoulder baggy tops or very short skirts - you need to keep the look classic. But the real key to this look is confidence. Wear red lips with a broad smile. It's a classic slash of red glamour that takes very little effort, and comes at a very small price.

What's not to love?